The Soil Food Web

The Soil Food Web shows how soil life turns organic matter into plant nutrition. The chart arrows represent who eats whom—an essential process that releases nutrients, builds soil structure, and supports healthier plants.

The Garden’s Underground “Ecosystem”

Your garden has an underground “ecosystem” that grows healthy plants. When gardeners talk about “good soil,” they’re usually talking about living things—not dirt. Under every raised bed, herb patch, and flower border is a busy community of tiny living creatures that:

• recycle organic matter into plant food

• build crumbly structure that holds water and air

• help roots access nutrients

• reduce pest & disease problems by balancing the system

Our Soil Food Web chart shows the living community as a simple map of who-s-who in that web and how energy and nutrients move through it. Your garden soil is a kitchen, recycling center and immune system all in one. Plants “feed” the soil life, the soil life transforms scraps into nutrients, and the whole system supports stronger plants. The arrows show who eats whom (and therefore who releases nutrients in plant-available forms). That “eating” is a good thing. Plants don’t do this alone. They’re partners with microbes and tiny animals that process food, store it, and deliver it back to roots.

The Main Characters in the Soil Food Web

• Plants: the food-web “solar panels”: Plants capture sunlight and turn it into sugars. A surprising amount of that energy goes down into the soil through as “root exudates” (tiny releases of sugars and compounds). Those exudates are like snacks and signals that recruit helpful microbes. Healthy roots = more food for soil life = better nutrient cycling.

• Organic matter: the pantry for the whole system
  Our chart describes organic matter as waste, residue, and metabolites from plants, animals, and microbes. Organic matter is not “just debris.” It’s the raw ingredient that becomes fertility. Think of organic matter as:
  - leaves and plant pieces
  - old roots
  - compost
  - mulch that breaks down
  - natural residues that soil life can digest

• Bacteria: tiny fast recyclers
  Bacteria are microscopic workhorses. They’re especially good at breaking down “easier” materials (many fresh residues and simple compounds). They multiply quickly when there’s food and moisture. What bacteria do for gardeners:
  - help convert organic matter into nutrients
  - support aggregation (better soil structure)
  - form the base of many food chains in soil

• Fungi: the thread-like builders and root partners
  There are two important fungal roles. Mycorrhizal fungi connect with roots and extend the root system’s reach. Saprophytic fungi break down tougher materials (often woody or fibrous). Fungi are also famous for building soil structure. Their thread-like bodies help form stable crumbs (“aggregates”) that improve drainage and water-holding at the same time. A simple gardener translation is ”Fungi help soil hold together in the good way.”

• Protozoa: microscopic “grazers” that release nutrients
  Protozoa (amoebae, flagellates, ciliates) eat bacteria and other microbes. This grazing matters because it causes nutrient “release” in forms that plants can use. Think of protozoa as the compost-turners of the microscopic world—digesting and “making nutrients available.”

• Nematodes: tiny worms with different jobs
  Nematodes get a mixed reputation because some types harm plants. Root-feeding nematodes are the ones gardeners don’t want in high numbers. There are also bacterial-feeders and fungal-feeders. Predatory nematodes eat other nematodes and help balance the system. In a balanced soil food web, the helpful nematodes and predators keep the community from tipping out of proportion. The goal is not “no nematodes.” The goal is a balanced community.

• Arthropods: shredders and predators
  “Arthropods” is a big category that includes many soil-dwellers (mites, springtails, beetle larvae, and more). Shredders chew and break organic matter into smaller pieces making it easier for microbes to finish the job. Predators:hunt other soil organisms, keeping populations balanced. Gardeners benefit because shredding speeds decomposition and predators reduce boom-and-bust outbreaks.

• Larger animals and birds: the top of the web
  At the top of your chart are larger animals (and birds). These are the visible members of the system that feed on arthropods and other creatures. Their activity is often a sign of a living, functioning soil habitat.

  Better nutrient delivery without “force-feeding”

  In a living soil, nutrients cycle through bodies—microbes eat, get eaten, and nutrients become available near roots. This is gentler and steadier than trying to force growth with quick, salt-based chemical fertilizers.

  Stronger plants with fewer problems: A diverse soil community creates competition and balance. Many plant diseases struggle to dominate in a biologically active, diverse soil ecosystem.

  Soil structure that makes gardening easier. When the soil food web is thriving, you tend to see more crumbly texture, better water infiltration, less crusting / compaction and improved root growth.

  Feed the web with the right kind of fertility

  The Deep Roots approach is feed the soil, and the soil feeds the plants. We focus on microbe- and nutrient-rich compost and high-quality worm castings because they don’t just “add nutrients”—they support the living system that manages nutrients.

  Is compost enough? Quality matters. Compost that is rich in microbial life and made well can be a powerful foundation. Deep Roots emphasizes compost and castings because they support both nutrients and biology—and biology is what keeps the system resilient.

  Keep the habitat friendly. Soil life needs:

  • oxygen (not compaction)

  • moisture (not constant drying and flooding cycles)

  • food (organic matter and root exudates)

  • protection (less disturbance)

Where fish emulsion fits: Worm castings are our steady, soil-building base. Fish emulsion is our targeted helper when plants need a quick, gentle boost—especially early growth, transplant recovery, or when a plant looks pale and needs nitrogen support. Used correctly, fish emulsion can complement the soil food web because it’s typically less harsh than many synthetic salts and works best as a support, not as the entire fertility plan.  Use fish emulsion like a vitamin—helpful when needed—while compost and castings remain the daily food that keeps the whole system strong.

Avoid practices that wipe out your workforce

“Chemical fertilizers” can work short-term but weaken the system long-term. Many fast-release synthetic fertilizers are designed to feed the plant directly—often with a strong “salt” effect. That can lead to a cycle where plants grow quickly, but soil biology gets less support.

Here’s what commonly goes wrong:

• The soil food web gets bypassed. Plants may send fewer root exudates (less “food” to microbes), which can reduce microbial diversity over time.

• Salt stress can harm roots and microbes. High concentrations can burn roots, reduce microbial activity, and make watering harder to manage.

• Growth can become soft and pest-prone. Fast nitrogen pushes lush foliage that is often more attractive to pests and more vulnerable to disease.

• Soil doesn’t improve. Synthetic fertilizers don’t build organic matter or structure, so you can get growth without getting better soil.

This doesn’t mean a gardener is “bad” for ever using them—it just explains why Deep Roots focuses on building fertility through biology.

Healthier plants with fewer problems

Don’t just “feed the plant,” feed the living system underneath it that turns organic matter into abundance. The soil food web is the everyday story of how sunlight becomes food—not just for plants, but for everything that depends on plants (which is… all of us). It’s the living, underground network that connects roots, microbes, tiny soil animals, and the creatures above ground that depend on them.

…and a heathier planet

When the soil food web is healthy, it does far more than “grow bigger plants.” It helps restore soil health, increase biodiversity, build larger and more active microbe populations, store carbon underground, and improve the nutritional quality of the food we grow. Healthy soil is one of the strongest foundations we have for a stable garden—and a healthier planet.

Join the Deep Roots movement

We’re not just about gardening; we’re about changing the way people grow food. Whether you have a tiny balcony or a full backyard, we’ll help you grow like a pro.

Stay in the loop: Signup for our email newsletter. If you also provide your phone number you will get text message updates that link to our best blog posts.

Get involved: Attend a free workshop, become a volunteer, grab a raised bed, or simply follow along for expert tips. Contact our support team any time you have a question at 708-655-5299 and support@deep-roots-project.org.

Learn. Share. Grow. Volunteer: We invite you to be a part of our sustainable movement right here in our own backyards! We want all our volunteers to have fun and learn while they contribute to expanding the Deep Roots community. We can customize a volunteer assignment to your time, interests and skills. Learn more on our Volunteer page

Dive Deeper

Click on the Blog Posts below for more about our Innovative methods.

Beautify Your Garden with Our Cedar Raised Beds!

 Our Deep Roots handcrafted cedar raised beds are designed to endure outdoors while adding a touch of style to your yard. As a bonus, they are the perfect depth to hold just the right amount of our nutrient-rich compost growing medium, which comes free with each bed.

Deep Roots Supports Gardeners

We provide our gardeners with the best products for success – like cedar raised beds, microbe-rich compost and microbe-rich worm castings.

Call our customer support team with any questions or help with calculations. Then place your order online. If you need help or have a question contact us at support[at]deep-roots-project.org and 708-655-5299.

See our online store for details about prices, ordering and delivery of raised beds, planter boxes, microbe-rich compost, worm castings, leaf mulch and more. We don’t sell traditional soil, since we use 100% compost as our growing medium. Our online store has 2 sections

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Donations help us provide organic kitchen gardening education to individuals, organizations, and entire communities. Thank you in advance for contributing to our community and for sharing our website and blog with friends and family.

Transformational Gardening Basics

Transformational Gardening is an innovative method used by Deep Roots Project to grow food in organic kitchen gardens with limited space using cedar raised beds and the best products for success – like microbe-rich compost and microbe-rich worm castings. Check our many tips and details in our blog posts from the links scattered throughout this post. See all nine categories of our blog posts here.

“Grow Your Own Food” blog posts

See the full list posts at Grow Your Own Food blog posts. Each post is assigned ”tags” displayed under the post title which go to a list of related posts. If you need a quick answer to a gardening question give us a call or send a text to our customer support team – support[at]deep-roots-project.org AND 708-655-5299.

Scroll down to go to a topic in the list below:

1. Enjoy the grow your own journey

2. Nurturing soil health

3. Raised beds are best

4. Moisture and Mulch

5. Finding optimal sunlight

6. Setting up your food garden

7. Seeds and seedlings (transplants)

8. Hardening off seedlings

9. Biodiversity Planting

10. Pest management

11. Planting calendars & climate zones

12. Cover crops and more

13. Season Extension

14. Harvesting

15. Storing your harvest

16. Preparing your bed for winter

17. ALL “Grow Your Own Food” blog posts

18. Deep Roots Online Store

19. Sign up for our newsletter

1. Enjoy the grow your own journey

• Gardening is an evolving and enjoyable learning experience. Learn to partner with nature and learn from your plants. Increase the enjoyment   by gardening with neighbors, friends, family and kids.

• Start small and learn at your own pace. Adjust your developing gardening habits, to fit the food you love and your available time.

• Remember that many of the Deep Roots “Transformational Gardening” methods are different from what you will find in YouTube videos and articles about traditional organic gardening. Remember, follow our lead on soil, fertilizers, biodiversity planting and pests.

• Go to a higher level any time. Learn gardening terminology in our extensive gardening glossary.

• Contact us at any time - customer support team – support[at]deep-roots-project.org AND 708-655-5299. Contact Estelle by text message with urgent gardening questions at 708-616-6473.

2. Nurturing soil health

• Transformational Gardening uses the latest soil science to build on the strengths of both organic farming and regenerative farming while adapting their practices to raised beds and limited space..

• Nurture your soil and the soil microorganisms (microbes and fungi) which in turn nurture and feed your plants. Let your soil microorganisms do most of your plant maintenance for you. Read more about Microbes, Compost and Soil Science.

• Plant and harvest carefully with minimal soil disturbance. Follow the No till, No dig, No pull rule which protects microbial and fungal soil structures. Cut down harvested crops at soil level. Don’t pull out the root except for root crops like beets and carrots. No till practices come from the regenerative farming movement.

• Microbe and nutrient rich compost is your new “SOIL.” Fill raised beds and containers with 100% Microbe-Rich Compost from Deep Roots which is bursting with soil microorganisms and organic matter that microorganisms feast on. Your plants will love it.

• Find microbe rich compost locally. If you are not in the Chicago area, buy microbe-rich compost from certified vendors in other regions using the U.S. Composting Council (USCC) database that lists the compost ingredients AND if the thermophilic heat process was used. Make sure the vendors don't use wood chips or tree waste.

• Don’t grow food with the soil from your yard which can have toxic substances and doesn’t contain the best nutrients and microorganisms for flourishing healthy, pest resistant plants. Amending soil in your yard is not worth the time or labor.

• If your beds contain conventional soil. If your raised beds and containers are filled with conventional soil you can easily switch to our transformational gardening method in 2 ways: (1) Replace the top 4-6 inches of the old soil with our microbe-rich compost. OR (2) make larger than normal seedling holes and seed furrows and fill with a half-and-half mixture of microbe-rich compost and microbe-rich worm castings. Read more about planting seeds and seedlings for beginners and for next level gardening.

• Fish emulsion fertilizer. Spray organic liquid fish emulsion fertilizer made from fish waste once a week or twice a month to add nutrients and microbes to your soil that support the soil microorganisms and your plants.

• Place mulch around seedlings. When your seedlings are 4” tall protect the soil from sunlight, weed seeds and evaporation. First spread a 1/2” to 1” layer of compost followed by a layer of chopped up straw. Don’t use hay that contains weed seeds. Buy straw in bags or grow your own straw by planting the beautiful perennial prairie plant “Miscanthus Grass.”

• Enrich your beds with compost in fall and spring. Spread a 2-inch layer of microbe-rich compost over your raised beds and containers in fall after harvest and/or spring before planting starts. Read our blog post Putting Your Bed to Bed.

• Use cover crops to protect bare soil and to add microbes and nutrients. See blog post: Cover Crops in Raised Beds.

3. Raised beds are best

• More details are in our blog post Why Raised Beds Are Best

• Raised beds allow you to grow a lot of food in a small space. We take advantage of the protected space that raised beds offer to substitute 100% microbe-rich compost for conventional soil.

• We offer the option to varnish your beds which retains their warm cedar colors longer.

• We also build custom cedar planter boxes.

• Grow in raised beds 15 inches tall to protect your soil and plants. The height provides extra space for moisture storage, habitat for microorganisms and space for roots to expand. Deep beds and larger containers allow your plants to grow bigger. More root space grows larger plants

• Never walk on the soil in your raised beds so it stays loose and fluffy. This allows free flow of water and air that the microorganisms need to thrive and this also enables larger and healthier roots.

• Cedar beds last many times longer than pine/fir beds. Our custom-built cedar raised beds are made from extra thick cedar boards using a design that withstands the force of expanding soil when it freezes during our cold winters.

• Never use treated wood since the “rot-resistant” chemicals are toxic to soil microorganisms.

• We transport the cedar boards in our truck directly from the sawmill in Indiana to our Oak Park, Illinois workshop in order to control quality and costs.

• It’s fine to use bricks and pavers to build your own raised beds. Recycled used bricks are cheaper and work great. You can even build beds with curves and unusual shapes in your edible landscape.

4. Moisture and Mulch

• Proper watering is critical to success and is one of the major reasons for failed crops. Find more details in our Moisture and Mulch blog post.

• Water deeply but don’t over water. Use the “finger moisture test” before and after watering. Push your finger 2-3 inches into the soil and press it between your fingers to judge moisture present. After you remove your fingers from moist soil particles should stick. This video demonstrates the finger test.

• Younger plants need more frequent watering since their roots are still shallow.

• Convenient access to water or a long hose is essential.

• If possible collect water from your roof with rain barrels. A small pump can supply the water pressure you need for your hose.

• Never use sprinklers or water the foliage in humid climates like the Chicago area. Water the soil instead.

• If possible, water in the morning to let the garden dry out by evening, Humidity and wet plants breed fungal diseases.

• We use both compost and chopped straw as a mulch to retain moisture and block ultraviolet sun rays from harming soil microbes near the surface. Add the 1/2 inch of compost first and the straw on top.

• Don’t use the Dense Leaf Mulch sold in our online store on your crops.  We sell it to use on your non-food garden beds.

• A water filter for your hose is needed if you are using municipal water containing chlorine which kills beneficial microorganisms. Buy it at garden centers or online.

• Drip Irrigation is great if you have many raised beds and/or are out of town often. A slow drip directly to each plant root is a healthier way to bring water to your plants and uses less water. Experiment to find the correct amount of time to irrigate. Ask our support team about our drip irrigation kits that have many tiny hoses attached to the main hose. Each small hose tip is staked next to a plant stem.

5. Finding optimal sunlight

• Sunlight is a critical factor for plant growth. Read our blog post on finding optimal sunlight to learn tricks to explore the best sun exposure for a food garden, what to consider when choosing a location, and how to make the most of the sun in your garden.

• Most veggies need 8 hours or more sun. Some crops can get by with less sun.The location of sunlight changes over the seasons.

• Make sure that the southern sun is not blocked by nearby buildings or shady trees.

• Put your bed in a sunny location near your house or garage. Consider your front yard, if your back yard is too shady. Check with your town or city if growing food in a front yard is permitted. View the photo gallery of the Deep Roots front yard garden.

6. Setting up your food garden

• Instructions for setting up your food garden and where to buy supplies are in our blog post Setup Your New Food Garden.

• We build raised beds in standard and custom sizes. We deliver and fill them with 100% microbe-rich compost (your new soil).

• Talk to our support team before placing an order on our store. Contact orders[at]deep-roots-project.org and 708-655-5299.

• When you need help with your gardening journey contact our support team for advice – support[at]deep-roots-project.org and 708-655-5299.

• We do additional garden setup work besides delivering filled raised beds. See our store page about general garden labor and talk to our customer support team. We can also connect you with a landscape architect and a native plant installation specialist.

• For more details view all our blog posts. Sign up for our e-newsletter to find out about our webinars during the growing season.

7. Seeds & seedlings (transplants)

• We have 2 blog posts about planting – one for beginners and another for experienced gardeners.

• Our microbe-rich worm castings replace organic fertilizers is our primary soil amendment. It is rich with microorganisms & nutrients and used when planting seeds and seedlings. Learn more about microbe-rich worm castings.

• The top ten easiest plants to grow from seed are lettuce, radishes, green beans, cucumbers, peas, zucchini, carrots, beets, spinach, and swiss chard. View blog post Easiest Veggies From Seed.

• Our favorite fast growing veggies: arugula, beets, broccolini, carrots, swiss chard, green onion, lettuce, mustard greens, pea, pea shoots, radish, spinach. Learn more in our Fast Growing Crops blog post.

• Buying seedlings (transplants) at a garden center is the easiest and fastest solution for “first timers” growing great crops.

• Best way for beginners to plant seeds. Plant easy-to-grow cool weather crops from seed outdoors in the spring or in your coolest season that gets the most rain. Read Seeds & Seedlings for Beginners.

• Experienced gardeners can grow most crops from seeds. Our blog post Seeds & Seedlings: Next Level offers tips on growing seedlings indoors for transplanting later and planting seeds outdoors.

• Plant garlic in fall October 15 to 30 for a bountiful harvest in July. It sprouts in spring and is harvested in July. Plant the biggest and healthiest organic garlic cloves you can find at a farmer market since the variety is best for our local climate. Planting garlic blog post.

• Plant spinach seeds between November 15 and 30 for an early spring cropland after you apply the 2” of compost. But don’t cover with mulch or leaves that will block the tiny sprouts from emerging in the spring.  Planting spinach blog post.

• For correct seed depth and spacing check the seed package.

• If planting in a bed filled with 100% compost add 1/2 to 1 cup of worm castings to each seedling hole or seed spot. Bigger adult plants get more worm castings when planting. Mix the worm castings with the surrounding compost. Push the seeds into the mixture.

• If planting in a bed filled with conventional soil (not our microbe-rich compost) make the holes and furrows extra large. Plant with a mixture of half worm castings and half our compost.

8. Hardening off seedlings

• Hardening off seedlings is the process of gradually exposing plants raised indoors or in a greenhouse to outdoor conditions before transplanting them.

• This process helps seedlings adapt to the harsher outdoor conditions, such as lower humidity, increased air movement, and sunlight, wind, and rain.

• Hardening off also encourages seedlings to grow firmer and harder, and reduces the chance of transplant shock. Begin hardening off seedlings 1–2 weeks before planting.

• Place your seedlings outside for an hour or two in mid- to late-afternoon.

• Lengthen outdoor time: Each day, leave your seedlings outside for an hour more than you did the previous one.

• Avoid placing seedlings outdoors on windy days. Be prepared to bring the plants inside if temperatures will fall below 45°F.

• Hardening off typically takes two to three weeks. Seedlings should be ready to transplant in seven to 14 days, and if possible, do so on a cloudy day. Water well after planting.

9. Biodiversity Planting

• Healthy happy plants are more resistant to disease and insect pressures and produce larger harvests.

• Harness the forces of nature to protect your garden from pests and diseases by using biodiversity planting and succession planting. Create a healthy ecosystem above and below ground.

• Consider creating an edible landscape that includes crops, native plants, flowers and shrubs.

• Avoid monocultures (filling a space with only one crop). Instead, create several small areas for tiny plants like carrots in a bed instead of one large area with all your carrots.

• We use succession planting to grow more food in limited space. We fill any empty spaces with new seedlings or seeds. But make sure the space allows sun for the seedlings and space for the adult plant.

• Planting a mix of crops can help improve soil health, prevent disease, and attract beneficial insects like bees and butterflies. Consider planting a mix of fruits, vegetables, herbs, and flowers to create a diverse and beautiful garden. View our blog post about Biodiversity Planting.

• Careful utilization of space: Be mindful of how much space and sun each plant needs to grow properly. Some crops, like tomatoes and squash, can take up a lot of room in your only raised bed and are best planted in large cloth containers. But cloth containers need lots more watering. Small plants like lettuce, radishes, beets and carrots can be planted in smaller spaces between medium-size plants like kale, collards, basil and swiss chard.

• Consider using trellises, vertical gardening, and other space-saving techniques to maximize your growing area.

10. Pest and disease management

• Healthy soil and healthy plants are more resistant to pests and diseases in general.

• Biodiversity planting and nontoxic organic sprays are our other 3 main tools. Learn more how we use Environmental Pest Management (EPM) to prevent and reduce pests in harmony with healthy soil and a diverse ecosystem of insects, birds and other creatures.

• Our favorite safe sprays are biofungicide, BT (Bacillus thuringiensis), Neem oil. pyrethrum, and nontoxic soap.

• Use diatomaceous earth (powder from crushed rocks) to kill slugs. The gray garden slug, Peroceras reticulatum, is generally found in Illinois.

• Sterilize your tools to avoid spreading diseases that can live on both foliage and the soil.

• Observe your garden daily or as often as possible to catch pests and diseases early.

• Get expert advice for pest problems and much more from your local botanic garden or state university agricultural extension. Email them photos of the problem. For the Chicago area, use Chicago Botanic Garden plant information service: plantinfo[at]chicagobotanic.org and (847) 835-0972.

• Read about common pests and diseases that attack the popular vegetables listed in our Planting Calendar for northern IL.

11. Planting calendars & climate zones

• What are climate zones? The U.S. is divided into 11 “climate zones” also called ”plant hardiness zones.” Each climate zone has an average first and last frost date which determines the length of the growing season.

• Climate change makes safe planting dates unpredictable. Find your frost dates by zip code. Find your climate zone in a map of U.S. climate zones.

• Follow a planting calendar for YOUR climate zone to know planting and harvest dates for each crop. The Deep Roots Planting Calendar Guide is for the greater Chicago area and is a combination of climate zones 5b and 6a. Find a reliable planting calendar for your area at state university agricultural extension office websites.

• Know WHEN to plant & harvest. It’s important to understand how average temperatures shift through the seasons and the preferred temperature range for specific crops in your climate zone.

• Know the crops that are cold tolerant for planting in spring and fall. Know the crops that need warmth to thrive and are planted in late spring, early summer and mid-August.   

• Know the highest and lowest safe temperatures for each crop. Some spring veggies survive only light frosts. Some veggie seeds need certain temperatures to germinate. Some plants like tomatoes, peppers and squash must be planted outside when all danger of frost has passed.

• Spinach seeds can stay in the ground all winter and germinate in early spring, plus produce a bigger harvest.

• Know the heat tolerance of your crops. With climate change temperature is unpredictable. For example, many tomato varieties react badly to temperatures above 90º and stop producing fruit. View our blog post Optimal Sunlight for details about heat reducing “shade cloth.”

• Timing is key for August planting for a fall harvest. Some plants that you already harvested can be planted again in a second-round. Choose veggies that love both hot and cool weather. Plant more than one of each crop – so, if one doesn’t make it – you’ve got some others!

• Weather is unpredictable in fall, especially now during climate change. Any plant that we suggest for August planting could be overwhelmed by an unexpected heat wave or cold snap. View our blog post about planning a fall harvest.

12. Cover crops and more

• Soil health and fertility. Cover crops help improve soil structure, add organic matter to the soil, suppress weeds, reduce erosion, and provide essential nutrients to the soil. Find more in our post about cover crops

• Cover crops are optional if using our method. It’s usually done by farmers to enrich their soil. Our method of adding 2” layer of compost in fall and spring and planting with worm castings keeps your soil bursting with microbes and nutrients all season long.

• Cover your soil covered in the off season. Use cover crops, landscape fabric, leaves, straw or organic matter that does NOT contain seeds.

• Common cover crops include mustard, buckwheat, clover, legumes, and cereal grains, such as wheat and oats. They can be grown between main crops, improving soil health and fertility for future crops.

• They provide habitat for beneficial insects, such as ladybugs and lacewings, which help to control pest populations.

• Don’t till in the dead cover crop cuttings. We follow the ”no till, no dig, no pull” rule. Instead cut it down at soil level and use it as mulch.

• Don't let the cover crop go to seed since you don’t want it to sprout when growing your main crop.

• For more information see: Cover Crops in Raised Beds.

13. Season Extension

• Local climates vary even in the same climate zone depending on growing season length, average temperature, amount of sunlight and wind exposure. See more details in our blog post Season Extension.

• Raised beds can be protected with row covers, cold frames, hoop houses, and greenhouse tunnels. These covers help trap heat, protect plants from wind, cold temperatures, pests and diseases.

• Floating row covers are lightweight fabrics that can be draped over the beds and secured with stakes or pins. Bury the ends of PVC plastic pipe or metal wire hoops in the soil. A lightweight row cover might provide 2ºF of frost protection, whereas a heavy-weight row cover might provide as much as 6ºF to 10ºF of frost protection. In the spring, when transplants are small, row cover can often be simply draped over plants without a frame. See our blog post Installing Hoops on Raised Beds.

• Floating row cover allows sunlight, water, and air through. They protect crops from frost and pests. Remove them to allow pollination.

• Cold frames are made from a wooden frame and a clear plastic or glass top. They store heat during the day and release it at night. They are ideal for early spring and late fall crops.

• Hoop houses are larger than raised beds and more permanent and constructed of metal hoops covered with clear plastic. Use them through winter in mild climates.

14. Harvesting

• Explore more details in our post Harvesting and Storing Food.

• Avoid pulling out crops by the roots. Follow the “no till, no dig, no pull rule.” For non-root veggies, leave the roots in the soil and cut the stem close to the ground. Only pull out the roots of root crops.

• Allow nature to improve the soil. Pulling a plant out by its roots interferes with bacterial colonies and fungal networks which are invisible sites that the fungi and bacteria build and live in.

• Harvest from the same plant as long as it is producing. Don’t remove healthy prolific plants too soon.

• Encourage growth by frequently picking salad greens, tomatoes, beans, peppers, cucumbers, squash, herbs, etc. Harvest frequently the large leaves from leafy green veggies like spinach, lettuce, kale and swiss chard so pests don’t damage them.

• Harvest outer leaves of leafy greens to make room for airflow between neighboring plants and to encourage more foliage.

• Learn to recognize when a plant is past its prime. Aging plants lose taste and take up precious space.

15. Storing your harvest

• Explore more details in our post about storing food. Also more details are in our blog posts on crops groups and specific crops, with more to come.

• Plan ahead for a large final harvest. Think about how you will cook, store or share the harvest – recipes, freezing, canning, fermenting, drying, storing in sand, storing in a basement, “vacuum sealing” before freezing, and more.

• Many ways to use and store your harvest. The simplest is to buy an inexpensive chest-style freezer for your basement.

• Store unharvested carrots and parsnips by leaving them in the ground over winter which makes them sweeter.

• Store leafy greens for a few days in a tight closing plastic bag with all the air squeezed out. Or, chop the leaves before freezing in tightly closed plastic bags.

• A “vacuum sealer” countertop appliance allows you to freeze your harvest in plastic bags for longer and also compresses the food into a smaller freezer bag.

16. Preparing your bed for winter

• Find more details in our blog post Putting Your Bed to Bed for winter

• Cover with 2” layer of compost. In cold climates like the Chicago after harvesting, re-charge your beds and containers with a 2-inch layer of microbe-rich compost. The microbes will have many months to enhance the soil. You can also add a second layer of compost in spring.

• Plant spinach seeds and garlic cloves in fall. Get a bigger harvest by  planting spinach seeds in November after you spread the 2” of compost. October is the best time to plant garlic for spring germination and harvest in July.

• Avoid leaching of nutrients. Cover the bed with fallen leaves or landscape cloth to protect soil from snow and rain over the winter. But remove the leaf cover and cloth March 1 (or earlier) so spinach seeds can germinate and perennials like green onions can sprout.

• Planting a cover is optional. Cover crops are an effective way to improve soil health, suppress weeds, and provide other benefits to a raised bed food garden. By choosing the right cover crop for your growing conditions, planting at the right time, and following good maintenance practices, you can enjoy a healthier and more productive garden. See our blog post: Cover Crops in Raised Beds.

17. "Grow Your Own Food" blog posts

See the full list of our Grow Your Own Food blog posts. Each post is assigned ”tags” which are under the post title. If you need a quick answer to a gardening question give us a call or send a text to our customer support team – support[at]deep-roots-project.org AND 708-655-5299.

18. Deep Roots online store

See our online store for details about prices, ordering and delivery of raised beds, planter boxes, microbe-rich compost, worm castings, leaf mulch and more. We don’t sell traditional soil, since we use 100% compost as our growing medium. Our online store has 2 sections – (1) raised beds and planter boxes and (2) compost, worm castings, fertilizer.

Please contact our customer support team before placing an order online so we can assist you with the details and answer your gardening questions. You can pay by credit card in the store or by check.

(708) 655-5299 and support[at]deep-roots-project.org

19. Sign up for our newsletter

Please leave your cell phone number when you sign up for our eNewsletter, if you want text message announcements now and then.

Donations help us provide organic kitchen gardening education to individuals, organizations, and entire communities. Thank you in advance for contributing to our community and for sharing our website and blog with friends and family.

Co-directors of Deep Roots Estelle Carol and Will Schreiber say “Happy Gardening”. Please send us photos of your garden to support[at]deep-roots-project.org.

Transformational Gardening By Season

Welcome to the Deep Roots Project's full season guide for climate zones 5b and 6a. We go step-by-step through our innovative and easy to learn organic gardening method from early spring preparation through fall harvest. It will bring you success from the first season in limited space using raised beds. Whether you're a beginner or experienced gardener, our methods will help you grow nutrient-dense food while revitalizing your soil with the power of microbe- and nutrient-rich compost.

Start Small and Learn at Your Own Pace

Adjust your developing gardening habits to fit the food you love and your available time. Remember that many of the Deep Roots “Transformational Gardening” methods are different from what you will find in YouTube videos and articles about traditional organic gardening. Follow our lead that uses the new agricultural science on soil, fertilizers, biodiversity planting, pests and more. Go to a higher level any time. Learn gardening terminology in our extensive gardening glossary blog post.

First Read our “Gardening Basics” Post

To get the most from this blog post, first read our “Transformational Gardening Basics” overview blog post for a broader understanding of the new soil science behind our innovative method. If you are already an experienced gardener OR when you are ready for a deeper dive into our innovative method, browse our full blog posts archive at Grow Your Own Food blog.

This post is a clear, step-by-step guide, through each phase of the gardening season, while maintaining a focus on Deep Roots Project’s core principles and innovative method.

Early Spring: Prepare Your Garden for Success

As winter fades and spring begins to stir, it’s time to start laying the foundation for a successful growing season. Follow these steps to ensure your garden gets off to the right start:

1. Clean and inspect your garden beds: Begin by cleaning any leftover debris or weeds from the previous year. Follow the “No till, no dig, no pull rule” and don’t pull out roots. Instead cut the stem at soil level. If you’re using raised beds, inspect the structure to ensure they’re still sturdy.

2. Make sure that the southern sun is not blocked by nearby buildings or shady trees. Do any trees or shrubs need trimming to allow maximum sunlight? Consider growing in your front yard, if your back yard is too shady.

3. Consider adding a raised bed. Raised beds allow you to grow a lot of food in a small space. We take advantage of the protected space that raised beds offer to grow in 100% Microbe-Rich Compost which is bursting with soil microbes and organic matter that soil microorganism populations feast on. Your plants will love it. Plus, never walk on the soil in your raised beds so it stays loose and fluffy. Plants grow poorly in compacted soil.

4. Spinach cover crop: If you planted spinach seeds from November 15 to 30, be careful to not disturb the spinach seedlings that sprout in early spring. You get a much larger spinach crop when you plant spinach seeds in the fall instead of in the spring. Harvest individual spinach plants to make empty spots for other early spring crops.

5. Amend the soil with compost: Deep Roots Project emphasizes the use of 100% microbe- and nutrient-rich compost. Spread a 2-3 inch layer of compost on the surface of your garden beds. This compost acts as both a fertilizer and soil conditioner, enhancing soil health without the need for chemical inputs.

6. Follow biodiversity planting: In early spring, start planning where spring and summer plants will go. Carefully follow the “biodiversity” section in our “Transformational Gardening Basics” blog post.

7. Install trellises and other space-saving vertical gardening techniques to maximize your growing area. Growing vertically in a food garden offers several advantages, including increased yields, efficient use of space, improved air circulation, and easier maintenance. Grow Vertically on a Trellis blog post.

8. Start warm season crops indoors from seed OR from tiny inexpensive garden center seedlings. Move the tiny seedlings into bigger pots as soon as you bring them home. Wash and soak used pots in dilute bleach. Place the small pots under grow lights or next to a very large sunny southern window. Use equal parts of our compost and worm castings for the soil. Read more about planting seeds and seedlings for beginners and for next level gardening.

9. Decide where to plant cool-season crops outdoors like leafy greens, peas, and root vegetables. Get planting dates for the greater Chicago area (climate zones 5b and 6a) from the Deep Roots Planting Calendar Guide and Frost-free Planting Dates and Plant Protection in Zones 5b & 6a.

10. Plant spinach seeds March 9 to 23. But it’s much easier to plant spinach seeds in late November.

11. Plant cool season seeds and seedlings (also called “transplants”). Root crops are best planted as seeds. Carefully follow the “seeds and seedlings” section in “Transformational Gardening Basics.”

12. Put worm castings in your seedling holes and seed furrows. Microbe-rich worm castings is the best fertilizer. If you are growing in  conventional soil make larger than normal seedling holes and seed furrows. Fill with half-and-half compost and worm castings.

13. Drip irrigation: Spring is best time to start setting up Irrigation. If you have a large garden and/or are out of town often, irrigation on a timer is very important. Experiment to find the correct amount of time to drip irrigate. Water deeply but don’t over water. Ask our support team about drip irrigation options.

14. A garden water filter for your hose: If you are using municipal water containing chlorine and other toxins which kill beneficial microorganisms the filter is required. Not needed if you collect rainwater from your roof. Buy a filter at garden centers or online.

Mid Spring: Planting Time

With the soil amended with compost, early spring crops ready, and you checked planting dates, it’s time to plant your cool weather crops. Here's how to get the most out of your mid-spring gardening:

1. Plant seeds and seedlings of your cool-season crops – hardy vegetables like lettuce, radishes, and carrots. These cool-season crops thrive in the mild temperatures of early spring.

2. The top ten easiest veggies to grow from seed are lettuce, radishes, green beans, cucumbers, peas, zucchini, carrots, beets, spinach, and swiss chard.

3. Understanding the temperature tolerances of the vegetables you grow is crucial for their growth and productivity. By providing the optimal temperature conditions, you can ensure healthy plants and a bountiful harvest. Veggie Temperature Tolerance blog post.

4. Continue to grow warm-season seedlings indoors either from seeds or small inexpensive seedlings you buy. See “start warm season crops indoors” paragraph in the early spring section above. This allows them to grow strong until the soil is warm enough to transplant them outdoors. Seedlings Next Level post.

5. Watering: Different plants need different kinds of watering. Water regularly but avoid overwatering. Seeds and seedlings need to be constantly moist. Over watering can also stress your plants. Consider the amount of rain and other weather conditions. Moisture and watering post.

6. Moisture and mulching: When plants are about 4” tall mulch with straw (not hay) to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and keep the soil temperature stable. Hay contains weed seeds.

Late Spring: Strengthen Your Growing Plants

As the days lengthen and temperatures warm, your plants will begin to take off. Here’s how to give them the best care during late spring:

1. Hardening off: Hardening off warm-season seedlings is the process of gradually exposing plants raised indoors or in a greenhouse to outdoor conditions before transplanting them. This process helps seedlings adapt to the harsher outdoor conditions, such as lower humidity, increased air movement, and sunlight, wind, and rain. Follow the instructions in the hardening off section of “Transformational Gardening Basics.”

2. Transplant warm-season crops: Once the danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up (usually by late May or early June), transplant your warm-season seedlings into the garden. Make sure to space them according to their growing requirements and size at maturity. Seeds & Seedlings: Next Level blog post.

3. Provide a trellis or a support cage for plants like squash, tomatoes, cucumbers, vining beans, and peas.

4. Spray fish emulsion weekly as a nutrient and microbe boost. You can also  spread some worm castings around the stems of plants.

5. Watch for pests and control them early. As your garden flourishes, keep an eye out for pests like aphids and caterpillars. Control with organic methods early. Use natural deterrents like neem oil, BT and pyrethrum. Or introduce beneficial insects like ladybugs to control infestations. Learn more about environmental pest management.

Early Summer: Maintain Growth & Build Healthy Plants

Your garden is now in full growth mode! Here are the steps to ensure your plants stay healthy during early summer:

1. Consistent watering: Keep your garden well-watered, but avoid overwatering, especially in raised beds. Water deeply and less frequently to encourage deep root growth. Use soaker hoses or drip irrigation to target the root zone.

2. Apply more compost and worm castings: Mid-season is a great time to give your plants another dose of nutrient-dense compost or worm castings. Lightly scratch the compost and castings into the top layer of soil.

3. Support climbing plants: For plants like beans, peas, and cucumbers, provide trellises or stakes to support their upward growth. This keeps them off the ground and maximizes space.

4. Pruning tomatoes is optional. Some claim that it increases yield, while others believe it's unnecessary. Scientific evidence does suggest that pruning can have specific benefits, but the extent of its impact on yield can vary based on factors like tomato variety, growing conditions, soil nutrients/microbes and pruning techniques. Pruning tomatoes blog post.

Late Summer: Encouraging Fruit & Veggie Production

By late summer, your plants are producing flowers, fruits, and vegetables. Here’s how to maximize yields:

1. Harvest early crops: You may begin harvesting early crops like leafy greens, radishes, and beans. Harvesting regularly encourages the plant to produce more.

2. Pick full size tomatoes before fully ripe, when they just start to turn warm beige and slightly red to prevent animals like squirrels from biting them.

3. Prune and trim: Trim back overgrown plants, especially tomatoes and vines, to direct energy into fruit production. Removing dead or yellowing leaves can prevent disease and improve air circulation.

4. Add a final layer of compost: Before the final growth push of the season, add another light layer of compost around fruiting plants. This keeps them well-nourished for the last phase of production.

Early Fall: Prepare for the Final Harvest

As fall approaches, your garden enters its final stages. Here’s how to wrap up the growing season with a successful harvest:

1. Harvest warm-season vegetables: It’s time to gather tomatoes, peppers, squashes, and other warm-season vegetables before the first frost. Keep an eye on the weather and harvest tender crops as temperatures drop.

2. Harvesting squash: Harvest some squash when they are light beige or slightly green (summer squash). Or wait until they are a warm peach color (winter squash). The winter squash skin is tough and can be stored indoors for 5-6 months in a cool location.

3. Plant fall crops: Fall is also a great time to plant cool-season crops again. Spinach, kale, and carrots can thrive in cooler temperatures, giving you fresh produce well into the fall.

Late Fall: Garden Clean-Up and Winter Preparation

As the season comes to a close, it’s important to prepare your garden for winter. This will ensure a healthy and productive start next spring:

1. Final harvest: Harvest any remaining vegetables, especially root crops like carrots and potatoes. For plants that won’t survive the frost, it’s time to cut them down.

2. Clean and store tools: Clean and sharpen your garden tools before storing them for winter. This will prolong their life and ensure they’re ready for next year.

3. Apply compost: Spread a 2” layer of compost over your beds. This protects the soil from winter erosion and adds nutrients that will break down and enrich the soil during the colder months.

4. Plant garlic in fall October 15 to 30 for a bountiful harvest in July. It sprouts in spring and is harvested in July. Plant the biggest and healthiest organic garlic cloves you can find at a farmers market since the variety is best for our local climate. Planting garlic blog post.

5. Plant spinach seeds between November 15 and 30 for an early spring crop, and after you apply the 2” of compost. But don’t cover with mulch or leaves that will block the tiny sprouts from emerging in the spring. Spinach planting blog post.

6. Avoid leaching of nutrients. Cover the bed with fallen leaves or landscape cloth to protect soil from snow and rain over the winter. But remove the leaf cover and cloth March 1 (or earlier) so spinach seeds can germinate and perennials like green onions can sprout.

7. Planting a cover crop is optional. Cover crops are an effective way to improve soil health, suppress weeds, and provide other benefits to a raised bed food garden. By choosing the right cover crop for your growing conditions, planting at the right time, and following good maintenance practices, you can enjoy a healthier and more productive garden. See our blog post: Cover Crops in Raised Beds.

8. Find more details in our blog post Putting Your Bed to Bed for winter

Happy Gardening!

By following the Deep Roots Project’s transformational gardening methods through the seasons, you will create a thriving, nutrient-rich garden that supports both your plants and the soil.

Deep Roots Supports Gardeners

We provide our gardeners with the best products for success – like cedar raised beds, microbe-rich compost and microbe-rich worm castings. Check our online store. Always talk to our customer support team before placing your order online. If you need help or have a question contact us at support[at]deep-roots-project.org and 708-655-5299.

Deep Roots Online Store

See our online store for details about prices, ordering and delivery of raised beds, planter boxes, microbe-rich compost, worm castings, leaf mulch and more. We don’t sell traditional soil, since we use 100% compost as our growing medium. Our online store has 2 sections – (1) raised beds and planter boxes and (2) compost, worm castings, fertilizer.

Please contact our customer support team before placing an order online so we can assist you with the details and answer your gardening questions. You can pay by credit card in the store or by check.

Please leave your cell phone number when you sign up for our eNewsletter, if you want text message announcements now and then.

Donations help us provide organic kitchen gardening education to individuals, organizations, and entire communities. Thank you in advance for contributing to our community and for sharing our website and blog with friends and family.

Sustainable Eastern Red Cedar

At Deep Roots, every raised garden bed we build is made from Eastern red cedar. We chose it because it performs beautifully outdoors and it can be a responsible wood choice when it’s harvested and used thoughtfully. This makes our raised beds sustainable, durable, attractive and affordable.

High-performing, naturally durable wood for outdoor use

Eastern red cedar (Juniperus virginiana) is widely considered a sustainable material because it grows relatively quickly, tolerates drought, and naturally resists insects and decay. Those built-in defenses come from aromatic oils in the wood—meaning cedar can last a long time outside without relying on heavy chemical treatments. For garden beds, that durability matters: longer-lasting lumber means fewer replacements over time, which reduces material use and waste.

Just as important, harvesting Eastern red cedar can actively help some landscapes. In many regions, especially where cedar has become overgrown, selective thinning opens up sunlight and space for native grasses and wildflowers. That can improve wildlife habitat, reduce competition that crowds out other plants, and in certain settings lower wildfire risk by breaking up dense stands. When land managers treat cedar expansion as part of broader restoration, using the harvested wood in long-lived products (like raised beds) is one way to make that work more efficient and less wasteful.

Well Managed Eastern cedar is a win-win

Sustainability also means being honest about tradeoffs. In parts of the Great Plains and other grassland ecosystems, Eastern red cedar can spread aggressively if it isn’t managed. Dense stands may suppress grasslands and can draw significant water in already-dry areas, affecting springs, streams, and water tables. Managing cedar responsibly can take real effort—mechanical removal and prescribed fire require planning, expertise, and funding.

The good news is that “managed well” cedar can be a win-win: it supports land stewardship goals while providing a high-performing, naturally durable wood for outdoor use. And when leftover branches or biomass can’t be used as lumber, innovative approaches—like converting it into biochar—can turn what would be waste into a soil-building amendment that also stores carbon.

Built for 100% compost as your new soil

Our Eastern cedar beds are designed and built to be the perfect companion for the soil that goes inside them—especially our 100% compost, used as the growing medium. Compost is alive with biology, holds moisture differently than bagged “garden soil,” and settles naturally as it finishes curing and cycles through wet/dry seasons. We build with those realities in mind so the bed supports the soil, not the other way around. Read more about our compost here.

Deep Roots beds are made to be sturdy, long-lasting frames that keep rich compost contained, productive, and easy to manage. The natural rot resistance of Eastern cedar matters here: compost-rich growing mixes can stay evenly moist, and that consistent moisture can be hard on lumber that isn’t naturally durable. Cedar’s built-in oils help it stand up to outdoor exposure and contact with soil without relying on added chemical treatments—an important match when the goal is clean, healthy food and healthy soil.

Those aromatic oils make the wood naturally pest resistant to moths, roaches, ants, and termites.

We also focus on practical details that make compost work better for gardeners. Our bed designs emphasize generous growing depth so compost can support strong root systems, hold moisture, and buffer temperature swings. The clean, defined edges help prevent washout during heavy rains, keep mulch and finished compost in place, and make it easier to top-dress with fresh compost as the season goes on. Because compost can settle over time, raised beds make ongoing soil care simple: you can add a fresh layer of compost each season without fighting compacted, weedy ground.

In other words, the raised bed and the compost are a system. The cedar provides a durable, natural structure. The 100% compost provides fertility, soil life, and water-holding capacity. Together they create a growing space that’s productive, lower-maintenance, and accessible—whether you’re planting herbs on a patio or building an abundant backyard garden.

Summary of Benefits

• Moisture-ready durability: Cedar holds up well in the consistently moist conditions compost likes.

• Clean growing environment: No need for harsh chemical treatments on the wood.

• Easy seasonal refresh: Compost can be topped off and renewed year after year.

• Garden structure that stays put: Strong edges keep compost, mulch, and amendments where they belong.

• Naturally resistant to common wood pests.

See the links below to explore our Eastern Red Cedar raised beds and planter boxes.

Join the Deep Roots movement

We’re not just about gardening; we’re about changing the way people grow food. Whether you have a tiny balcony or a full backyard, we’ll help you grow like a pro.

Stay in the loop: Signup for our email newsletter. If you also provide your phone number you will get text message updates that link to our best blog posts.

Get involved: Attend a free workshop, become a volunteer, grab a raised bed, or simply follow along for expert tips. Contact our support team any time you have a question at 708-655-5299 and support@deep-roots-project.org.

Learn. Share. Grow. Volunteer: We invite you to be a part of our sustainable movement right here in our own backyards! We want all our volunteers to have fun and learn while they contribute to expanding the Deep Roots community. We can customize a volunteer assignment to your time, interests and skills. Learn more on our Volunteer page

Dive Deeper

Click on the Blog Posts below for more about our Innovative methods.

Beautify Your Garden with Our Cedar Raised Beds!

 Our Deep Roots handcrafted cedar raised beds are designed to endure outdoors while adding a touch of style to your yard. As a bonus, they are the perfect depth to hold just the right amount of our nutrient-rich compost growing medium, which comes free with each bed.

Deep Roots Supports Gardeners

We provide our gardeners with the best products for success – like cedar raised beds, microbe-rich compost and microbe-rich worm castings.

Call our customer support team with any questions or help with calculations. Then place your order online. If you need help or have a question contact us at support[at]deep-roots-project.org and 708-655-5299.

See our online store for details about prices, ordering and delivery of raised beds, planter boxes, microbe-rich compost, worm castings, leaf mulch and more. We don’t sell traditional soil, since we use 100% compost as our growing medium. Our online store has 2 sections

Signup for Our Newsletter

Please leave your cell phone number when you sign up for our eNewsletter to get gardening and seasonal text messages announcements now and then.

Donations help us provide organic kitchen gardening education to individuals, organizations, and entire communities. Thank you in advance for contributing to our community and for sharing our website and blog with friends and family.

Over-Winter Your Hot Pepper Plants

Hot peppers are tender perennials. In warm climates they can live for years, forming woody trunks and producing earlier, heavier harvests each season. In Zones 5 and 6, you can capture much of that benefit by overwintering a few favorite plants indoors. The idea is simple: move healthy peppers into pots before hard frost, keep them alive with minimal effort through winter, and set them back outside in spring for a head start.

How to Overwinter Hot Pepper Plants

Among the hot pepper varieties that successfully overwinter in pots indoors are Habanero, Thai chili, and Cayenne. These peppers, which are perennials in their native tropical climates, are more resilient and adapt more easily to overwintering than bell peppers or other sweet varieties. For the best results, select the healthiest, most compact plants for overwintering. 

Begin by choosing strong, compact plants that produced well this season. Skip any that are diseased, pest‑ridden, or severely stressed. About a week before moving them inside, remove flowers and small fruit and thin crowded branches to improve airflow. Give each plant a thorough rinse with a firm spray of water—especially the undersides of leaves—and let it dry. Follow with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil as directed on the label, and repeat several days later. If your peppers are in the ground, lift them with a generous root ball; if they’re already in containers, simply refresh the potting setup.

For winter containers, a 2‑ to 5‑gallon pot with large drainage holes works well. Deep Roots gardeners fill containers with 100% finished, microbe‑rich compost rather than a peat‑based mix, and we add a handful of high‑quality worm castings both in the planting hole and as a thin top‑dress. Plant peppers at the same depth they grew outdoors, water once to settle, and place a few coarse wood chips over the interior drain holes to prevent clogging—no pebbles needed.

Two Workable Paths

From here you have two workable paths. The lowest‑effort option is the semi‑dormant “stump” method. Cut the plant back to about 6–10 inches, leaving three to five main nubs with visible nodes, and remove most remaining leaves. Park the pot in a cool space around 50–65°F (10–18°C). A bright window is helpful but not essential. Water sparingly—wait until the top 2–3 inches of compost are dry, then water lightly. Skip fertilizer through winter; the compost biology and initial castings provide all the nutrition a resting plant needs. Expect little visible growth. That’s fine—the goal is survival, not production.

If you prefer greenery indoors or hope for an occasional winter pepper, keep the plant in light growth as a houseplant. Prune it back by roughly one‑third to one‑half to fit your space and lights, but leave some foliage. A sunny south window may suffice, though a simple LED grow light on a timer makes this method much more reliable. Aim the light 12–18 inches above the canopy for 12–14 hours daily. Keep temperatures around 65–75°F (18–24°C) with humidity in the 40–60% range; a pebble tray can help if your home is dry.

Water thoroughly when the top 1–2 inches of compost are dry and never leave water standing in the saucer. Once you see steady new growth, top‑dress a quarter to half an inch of worm castings about once a month and water it in. That, plus quality compost, usually replaces bottled fertilizers; if you like, add a very light fish/seaweed drench every three to four weeks. Expect modest winter growth and the occasional flower; fruit set is possible under strong light, but the real payoff comes in spring.

Indoor Pest Management

Indoor pest management is simple if you stay ahead of it. Check plants weekly, especially the undersides of leaves and tender new growth, for aphids, spider mites, whiteflies, and thrips. Yellow sticky cards help you catch flying pests early. If you see trouble, start by rinsing the plant in a sink or shower and gently wiping the leaves. Follow up with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, coating all leaf surfaces and repeating within a week if needed. For fungus gnats, let the top layer of compost dry a bit more between waterings, add a thin top‑layer of coarse sand or fine gravel, and use sticky cards to trap adults. Quarantine any new or returning plants for a week or two before placing them with other houseplants.

Late Winter

As days lengthen in late winter, gradually increase light intensity or duration to “wake” your peppers. Refresh the container with a little new compost and a fresh top‑dress of worm castings or step up to the final outdoor pot if needed—most hot peppers are happy in 3–7 gallons for the season. Tip‑prune leggy stems back to two to four nodes to encourage branching. Harden plants off over 7–10 days by introducing them to outdoor conditions a little at a time and set them outside for good once nights reliably stay above 50°F (10°C) and frost risk has passed. Overwintered peppers typically leaf out quickly, flower early, and yield sooner than first‑year plants.

If leaves yellow or drop after the move indoors, don’t panic—some shedding is normal. Over-watering is the most common winter mistake, so check moisture with your finger instead of watering on a schedule. If growth stretches and looks leggy, bring the lights closer or increase brightness, then lightly prune to shape. If flowers don’t appear indoors, that’s fine; focus on plant health now for a strong spring flush. Should pests persist despite gentle controls, it’s better to discard a badly infested plant than endanger the rest of your collection.

Deep Roots’ compost‑and‑castings approach shines indoors because living, microbe‑rich compost delivers a steady, biology‑mediated trickle of nutrients rather than the feast‑or‑famine swings of synthetic salts. Roots stay healthier, watering is more forgiving, and you can usually skip bottled fertilizer altogether. Just be sure your compost is truly finished, your container drains freely, and you water by touch.

Getting Started

To get started, gather clean bypass pruners and a rag with isopropyl alcohol for disinfecting, appropriately sized pots with generous drain holes, finished compost, premium worm castings, insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, and a few yellow sticky cards. An LED grow light, a simple plug‑in timer, and a pebble tray for humidity are inexpensive upgrades that improve success. Follow the steps above and your peppers will sleep comfortably through winter and greet spring ready to produce earlier and better than ever.

Join the Deep Roots movement

We’re not just about gardening; we’re about changing the way people grow food. Whether you have a tiny balcony or a full backyard, we’ll help you grow like a pro.

Stay in the loop: Signup for our email newsletter. If you also provide your phone number you will get text message updates that link to our best blog posts.

Get involved: Attend a free workshop, become a volunteer, grab a raised bed, or simply follow along for expert tips. Contact our support team any time you have a question at 708-655-5299 and support@deep-roots-project.org.

Learn. Share. Grow. Volunteer: We invite you to be a part of our sustainable movement right here in our own backyards! We want all our volunteers to have fun and learn while they contribute to expanding the Deep Roots community. We can customize a volunteer assignment to your time, interests and skills. Learn more on our Volunteer page

Dive Deeper

Click on the Blog Posts below for more about our Innovative methods.

Beautify Your Garden with Our Cedar Raised Beds!

 Our Deep Roots handcrafted cedar raised beds are designed to endure outdoors while adding a touch of style to your yard. As a bonus, they are the perfect depth to hold just the right amount of our nutrient-rich compost growing medium, which comes free with each bed.

Deep Roots Supports Gardeners

We provide our gardeners with the best products for success – like cedar raised beds, microbe-rich compost and microbe-rich worm castings.

Call our customer support team with any questions or help with calculations. Then place your order online. If you need help or have a question contact us at support[at]deep-roots-project.org and 708-655-5299.

See our online store for details about prices, ordering and delivery of raised beds, planter boxes, microbe-rich compost, worm castings, leaf mulch and more. We don’t sell traditional soil, since we use 100% compost as our growing medium. Our online store has 2 sections

Signup for Our Newsletter

Please leave your cell phone number when you sign up for our eNewsletter to get gardening and seasonal text messages announcements now and then.

Donations help us provide organic kitchen gardening education to individuals, organizations, and entire communities. Thank you in advance for contributing to our community and for sharing our website and blog with friends and family.

Planting a Fall Food Garden

Planting a Fall Food Garden

In zones 5b and 6a (including the Chicago area), our first frost is usually mid-October. Plant your seeds and seedlings in July and August. See the planting calendar below. Some fast growing, fast maturing, cold-hardy vegetable seedlings can be planted as late as mid September. They thrive in cooler days and can even sweeten after a light frost. Cover the bed with “floating row cove” (lightweight white fabric) for extra warmth.

Tips for Success

Buy seedlings locally - here are some local sources we recommend:

• Empowering Gardens in Forest Park
  Address: 7730-36 Madison St, Forest Park, IL 60130
  Phone: (708) 689-8332

• Good Earth Greenhouse
  Address: 7900 Madison St, River Forest, IL 60305
  Phone: (708) 366-9500

• Gethsemane Garden Center
  Address: 5739 N Clark St, Chicago, IL 60660
  Phone: (773) 878-5915

• We Grow Dreams
  Address: 1055 W Washington St, West Chicago, IL 60185
  Phone: (630) 293-0100

• Buying locally is important! Local seedlings will be acclimated to local conditions.

Floating row cover is lightweight white fabric that allows sunlight, water, and air through, and protects crops from frost and pests. A lightweight row cover might provide 2ºF of frost protection, whereas a heavy-weight row cover might provide as much as 6ºF to 10ºF of frost protection. Learn how to Install Hoops on Raised Beds. Remove it to allow pollination.

Harvest continuously—baby greens and radishes give quick results while slower crops catch up.

Fast growing fall crops from seedlings 

Leafy Greens (Very Reliable for Fall) - These can be planted to mid September .

• Spinach – plant seeds in mid-November for germination in spring. Your spinach will grow bigger and better if planted in the fall rather than spring. Note - always plant spinach from seed, using seedlings does not work for Spinach.

• Lettuce - Opt for loose-leaf varieties, which mature quickly and are more frost-tolerant than crisp-head types. Plant seedlings, harvest as baby leaves in 3–4 weeks.

• Arugula –plant seedlings, ready fast (3–4 weeks), perfect for cut-and-come-again harvest.

• Swiss Chard –plant seedlings, tolerates cool temps but may slow in late fall.

• Bok Choy and baby kale are short-season varieties that are easy to grow and produce baby greens in just a few weeks. 

• Brassicas (Hearty Cool-Weather Crops) - Best planted by late August in Zone 5b/6a. If planting in September, focus on faster maturing types (kohlrabi, broccoli raab). Brassicas are harder to grow recently because of an invasion of tiny fly called Swede Midge that attacks only brassica plants. Covering your brassicas with bug netting helps. Swede Midge Fly Management. Ask our customer support about buying or borrowing a large bug netting bag.

Roots (Quick Harvest Varieties Only) - Stick to radish and turnip seedlings for reliable results.

• Radishes – super fast, 25–35 days; can re-seed weekly until frost.

• Turnips – 40–60 days; tender greens + roots to enjoy before frost.

• Beets – possible if seeded in July or early August; seedlings planted later may still size up if fall is mild.

Alliums - for germination in spring

• Garlic – planted in late September through October; harvested next summer.

• Onions/Shallots – some can be fall-planted to overwinter.

Fall Planting Calendar – Zones 5b & 6a

Here’s a clear planting chart for a fall garden in Zones 5b & 6a (Chicago area). It starts in mid-summer (July) and runs through early fall (October), showing both direct seeding and transplanting seedlings.

Notes for Success

• Mid-July to Early August → Plant longer-season brassicas (broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower) as seedlings.

• Late July to Mid-August → Sow roots (carrots, beets, turnips) and leafy greens that take 45–60 days.

• Late August to Early September → Focus on fast crops (radish, arugula, spinach, lettuce).

• September–October → Plant garlic, shallots, overwintering onions for next summer’s harvest.

• Frost protection → Use row covers to extend harvest of spinach, lettuce, and kale well into November.

Join the Deep Roots movement

We’re not just about gardening; we’re about changing the way people grow food. Whether you have a tiny balcony or a full backyard, we’ll help you grow like a pro.

Stay in the loop: Signup for our email newsletter. If you also provide your phone number you will get text message updates that link to our best blog posts.

Get involved: Attend a free workshop, become a volunteer, grab a raised bed, or simply follow along for expert tips. Contact our support team any time you have a question at 708-655-5299 and support@deep-roots-project.org.

Learn. Share. Grow. Volunteer: We invite you to be a part of our sustainable movement right here in our own backyards! We want all our volunteers to have fun and learn while they contribute to expanding the Deep Roots community. We can customize a volunteer assignment to your time, interests and skills. Learn more on our Volunteer page

Dive Deeper

Click on the Blog Posts below for more about our Innovative methods.

Beautify Your Garden with Our Cedar Raised Beds!

 Our Deep Roots handcrafted cedar raised beds are designed to endure outdoors while adding a touch of style to your yard. As a bonus, they are the perfect depth to hold just the right amount of our nutrient-rich compost growing medium, which comes free with each bed.

Deep Roots Supports Gardeners

We provide our gardeners with the best products for success – like cedar raised beds, microbe-rich compost and microbe-rich worm castings.

Call our customer support team with any questions or help with calculations. Then place your order online. If you need help or have a question contact us at support[at]deep-roots-project.org and 708-655-5299.

See our online store for details about prices, ordering and delivery of raised beds, planter boxes, microbe-rich compost, worm castings, leaf mulch and more. We don’t sell traditional soil, since we use 100% compost as our growing medium. Our online store has 2 sections

Signup for Our Newsletter

Please leave your cell phone number when you sign up for our eNewsletter to get gardening and seasonal text messages announcements now and then.

Donations help us provide organic kitchen gardening education to individuals, organizations, and entire communities. Thank you in advance for contributing to our community and for sharing our website and blog with friends and family.

Fish Emulsion Fertilizer

Using fish emulsion in a food garden is an excellent way to support the health of soil microorganisms and crops. It provides essential nutrients, beneficial microorganisms, and a balanced pH, all while being a natural and sustainable fertilizer option. By incorporating fish emulsion into your gardening routine, you can help to create a healthy and thriving ecosystem in your garden.

For healthy soil, microorganisms & crops

Supporting the soil microbes is the priority: Deep Roots uses fish emulsion to support healthy growing microbe populations and not to feed our plants directly. Although fish emulsion does contain some helpful nutrients it’s the microbes’ ability to feed these nutrients in our compost and worm castings to the plant roots that matters most in our Transformational Gardening method.

Fish emulsion is a natural fertilizer that has been used for centuries to improve soil health and crop yields. It is made by fermenting fish parts, such as bones, skin, and organs, in water, and then straining the resulting liquid to create a nutrient-rich fertilizer.

Supplies slow release nutrients. The use of fish emulsion in a food garden can support the health of soil microorganisms and crops in several ways. First, fish emulsion is a rich source of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, which are essential nutrients for plant growth. Nitrogen is needed for leafy growth, phosphorus is important for root development, and potassium helps plants resist disease and stress. These nutrients are released slowly over time, providing a consistent source of nutrition to the soil and plants.

Fish emulsion contains beneficial microorganisms, such as bacteria and fungi, that help to break down organic matter in the soil and release nutrients. These microorganisms also improve soil structure, which promotes healthy root growth and improves water and nutrient uptake. By adding fish emulsion to the soil, you are supporting the growth and activity of these important microorganisms.

Balance the pH of the soil. Fish emulsion can help to balance the pH of the soil. Soil pH affects the availability of nutrients to plants, and many plants prefer a slightly acidic soil. Fish emulsion has a pH of around 6.5, which is in the ideal range for many crops. By adding fish emulsion to the soil, you can help to maintain the pH at a level that is optimal for plant growth. Our microbe-rich compost and microbe-rich worm casting also keep soil pH in balance. Even though we don’t worry about testing for pH in the Transformational Gardening method, this is a good tip to know.

Environmentally friendly fertilizer. Fish emulsion is a natural and environmentally friendly fertilizer. It is made from a renewable resource, and it does not contain harmful chemicals or synthetic additives. By using fish emulsion in your food garden, you can support the health of your soil and crops without causing harm to the environment.

How to Apply Fish Emulsion Liquid Fertilizer

Dilution: Fish emulsion is a versatile and powerful liquid organic fertilizer that can be used in two main ways: poured around the base of plants or sprayed directly onto their leaves. Either way, it must be diluted with water before use. A typical dilution is one tablespoon of fish emulsion per gallon of water, though it’s always best to follow the instructions on your specific product label.

Plant needs vary: Before measuring out the fertilizer, be sure to shake the bottle well, as fish emulsion tends to separate when it sits. Once shaken, mix it thoroughly with water. The standard dilution works well for most plants, but you can adjust the concentration depending on your garden’s needs. Some delicate plants may benefit from a weaker solution, while hardier varieties might thrive with a slightly stronger mix.

Application methods: There are two primary methods for applying fish emulsion. The first is a soil drench, where you pour the diluted mixture directly onto the soil around the base of your plants. This helps the nutrients reach the root zone where they are most needed. The second method is a foliar spray, where the diluted fertilizer is sprayed onto the leaves. This can provide a more immediate nutrient boost, as plants are able to absorb some nutrients through their foliage.

Frequency of application: Fish emulsion is typically applied every two to three weeks during the growing season, but the exact frequency can vary based on your plant types, soil conditions, and the product you’re using. Always monitor how your plants respond and adjust as needed.

Apply at coolest part of the day: For best results, apply fish emulsion during the cooler parts of the day—early morning or late afternoon—to avoid leaf burn from sun exposure.

Water thoroughly: After applying, give your plants a thorough watering to help distribute the nutrients and prevent any residue buildup..

Don’t apply too much: As with any fertilizer, it’s important not to overdo it. Too much fish emulsion can harm your plants rather than help them. If you’re applying it for the first time or are unsure about the right dosage, start with a lighter dilution and increase gradually if your plants seem to need more. Keep in mind that some plants—especially leafy greens like kale, lettuce, and Swiss chard—tend to benefit more from fish emulsion than others. Watch for signs of over-fertilization, such as browning leaf tips, slowed growth, or a white crust forming on the soil surface.

The strong odor fades quickly: Be aware that fish emulsion does have a strong smell, but according to “The Spruce” and other gardening sources, the odor usually fades quickly after application

Support healthy plants all season

By using fish emulsion correctly and thoughtfully, you can support healthy, vibrant plant growth throughout the season, all while feeding your garden with a natural and sustainable fertilizer.

Join the Deep Roots movement

We’re not just about gardening; we’re about changing the way people grow food. Whether you have a tiny balcony or a full backyard, we’ll help you grow like a pro.

Stay in the loop: Signup for our email newsletter. If you also provide your phone number you will get text message updates that link to our best blog posts.

Get involved: Attend a free workshop, become a volunteer, grab a raised bed, or simply follow along for expert tips. Contact our support team any time you have a question at 708-655-5299 and support@deep-roots-project.org.

Learn. Share. Grow. Volunteer: We invite you to be a part of our sustainable movement right here in our own backyards! We want all our volunteers to have fun and learn while they contribute to expanding the Deep Roots community. We can customize a volunteer assignment to your time, interests and skills. Learn more on our Volunteer page

Dive Deeper

Click on the Blog Posts below for more about our Innovative methods.

Beautify Your Garden with Our Cedar Raised Beds!

 Our Deep Roots handcrafted cedar raised beds are designed to endure outdoors while adding a touch of style to your yard. As a bonus, they are the perfect depth to hold just the right amount of our nutrient-rich compost growing medium, which comes free with each bed.

Deep Roots Supports Gardeners

We provide our gardeners with the best products for success – like cedar raised beds, microbe-rich compost and microbe-rich worm castings.

Call our customer support team with any questions or help with calculations. Then place your order online. If you need help or have a question contact us at support[at]deep-roots-project.org and 708-655-5299.

See our online store for details about prices, ordering and delivery of raised beds, planter boxes, microbe-rich compost, worm castings, leaf mulch and more. We don’t sell traditional soil, since we use 100% compost as our growing medium. Our online store has 2 sections

Signup for Our Newsletter

Please leave your cell phone number when you sign up for our eNewsletter, if you want text message announcements now and then.

Donations help us provide organic kitchen gardening education to individuals, organizations, and entire communities. Thank you in advance for contributing to our community and for sharing our website and blog with friends and family.

Foods Banned Elsewhere But Not in US

Why Are These 11 Foods Banned in Other Countries, But Still Eaten in the U.S.?

Did you know that many ingredients still found in U.S. grocery stores are banned in other countries due to health risks?

Unlike the European Union, which bans or restricts additives until they’re proven safe, the U.S. assumes they’re safe until proven otherwise. That leaves consumers responsible for researching their own food — and often eating things that other countries won’t allow.

Examples of banned foods or ingredients

Here are 11 examples of foods or ingredients still used in the U.S. that have been banned or heavily restricted elsewhere:

1. Bleached Flour
Treated with chemicals like chlorine or benzoyl peroxide, bleached flour may contain alloxan, a compound that damages pancreatic cells. Banned in the EU, UK, and China.

2. Dough Conditioners
Potassium bromate and azodicarbonamide are used to improve bread texture but are linked to cancer and respiratory issues. Banned in countries including Brazil, India, and most of Europe.

3. Propylparaben
Used as a preservative, this chemical disrupts hormones and may affect fertility and breast tissue. Banned in the EU and set to be banned in California starting 2027.

4. BHA and BHT
These synthetic preservatives extend shelf life but can disrupt hormones and are possibly carcinogenic. Limited in Europe, especially in foods for children.

5. Synthetic Food Dyes
Common dyes like Red 40 and Yellow 5 have been linked to behavioral problems in children and even cancer in animal studies. Many are banned or restricted in Europe and Australia. California has begun phasing them out of schools.

6. GMOs & Glyphosate
Most U.S. corn, soy, and canola are genetically modified and sprayed with glyphosate — a herbicide linked to cancer. Over 60 countries ban or require labeling of GMOs.

7. Antibiotics in Meat
Despite a 2017 ban on using antibiotics to promote growth in animals, they are still used in overcrowded factory farms to prevent illness. This contributes to antibiotic resistance and is banned in many countries.

8. Harmful Pesticides
Chlorpyrifos, a pesticide linked to developmental delays in children, was banned by the EPA but reinstated by a court in 2023. It’s still used on U.S. crops, unlike in the EU.

9. Olestra (Olean)
Used in “fat-free” chips and snacks, Olestra can cause digestive distress and block vitamin absorption. Banned in Canada and Europe.

10. Synthetic Hormones in Dairy
Hormones like rBGH increase milk production but are linked to cancer risk and infections in cows. Banned in the EU and Canada.

11. PFAS in Packaging
These “forever chemicals” resist grease and heat but build up in our bodies and environment, causing cancer and immune damage. Banned in the EU; partially phased out in some U.S. states.

What Can You Do?

• Eat whole, organic, and homegrown food whenever possible.

• Avoid processed foods with long ingredient lists.

• Support local regenerative farmers and food producers.

• Read labels carefully and learn the hidden names for harmful additives.

• Speak out: Sign petitions and support policies that protect food safety.

At Deep Roots Project, we teach people how to grow safe, nutrient-rich food using only compost and natural inputs. It’s one of the most powerful things you can do for your health and the planet.

Let’s grow food we can trust — right in our own backyards.

Join the Deep Roots movement

We’re not just about gardening; we’re about changing the way people grow food. Whether you have a tiny balcony or a full backyard, we’ll help you grow like a pro.

Stay in the loop: Signup for our email newsletter. If you also provide your phone number you will get text message updates that link to our best blog posts.

Get involved: Attend a free workshop, become a volunteer, grab a raised bed, or simply follow along for expert tips. Contact our support team any time you have a question at 708-655-5299 and support@deep-roots-project.org.

Learn. Share. Grow. Volunteer: We invite you to be a part of our sustainable movement right here in our own backyards! We want all our volunteers to have fun and learn while they contribute to expanding the Deep Roots community. We can customize a volunteer assignment to your time, interests and skills. Learn more on our Volunteer page

Dive Deeper

Click on the Blog Posts below for more about our Innovative methods.

Beautify Your Garden with Our Cedar Raised Beds!

 Our Deep Roots handcrafted cedar raised beds are designed to endure outdoors while adding a touch of style to your yard. As a bonus, they are the perfect depth to hold just the right amount of our nutrient-rich compost growing medium, which comes free with each bed.

Deep Roots Supports Gardeners

We provide our gardeners with the best products for success – like cedar raised beds, microbe-rich compost and microbe-rich worm castings.

Call our customer support team with any questions or help with calculations. Then place your order online. If you need help or have a question contact us at support[at]deep-roots-project.org and 708-655-5299.

See our online store for details about prices, ordering and delivery of raised beds, planter boxes, microbe-rich compost, worm castings, leaf mulch and more. We don’t sell traditional soil, since we use 100% compost as our growing medium. Our online store has 2 sections

Signup for Our Newsletter

Please leave your cell phone number when you sign up for our eNewsletter to get gardening and seasonal text messages announcements now and then.

Donations help us provide organic kitchen gardening education to individuals, organizations, and entire communities. Thank you in advance for contributing to our community and for sharing our website and blog with friends and family.