Summer and Fall Planting Guide
Welcome to your Summer + Fall planting guide for the Deep Roots method—built in the same spirit as our Spring step-by-step. Think of this as your two-season roadmap: surviving the heat, staying ahead of pests, and then pivoting smoothly into a wildly productive fall harvest.
Welcome to your Summer + Fall planting guide for the Deep Roots method—built in the same spirit as our Spring step-by-step. Think of this as your two-season roadmap: surviving the heat, staying ahead of pests, and then pivoting smoothly into a wildly productive fall harvest. Whether you're an experienced grower or just finding your rhythm, these pages will help you work smarter, not harder.
What Makes the Deep Roots Method Work
Before we get into the calendar, it helps to understand the handful of practices that drive everything else. These aren't complicated tasks—but doing them consistently is what separates a garden that barely survives summer from one that thrives into November.
Feed the Soil (Without Overdoing It)
Healthy soil is the engine behind healthy plants, and summer is when that engine gets tested. If your beds look tired or pale mid-summer, a light top-dress of compost—about half an inch to an inch—goes a long way. Think of it as a mid-season tune-up rather than a full rebuild. When fall arrives, you'll do a more generous application of around two inches to replenish the microbial life and nutrients that carry your garden into next year.
Whenever you're transplanting summer crops or starting fall seedlings, work in some worm castings (vermicompost) around the root zone. They deliver a gentle, fast-acting nutrient boost that seedlings love, without the risk of burning tender roots the way synthetic fertilizers can. View our blog posts Understanding Compost and Mulch and Worm Castings Fertilizer & Microorganisms
Mulch Like Your Garden Depends on It (Because It Does)
Mulching might be the single highest-return task in a summer garden. Once seedlings reach about three inches tall, lay straw on top of your compost layer to lock in moisture and keep weed pressure down. Keep the straw as a surface blanket—don't mix it into the soil. A critical note: use straw, not hay. Hay is full of weed seeds that will make your life miserable all season.
Fall gardens still dry out faster than you'd expect, so don't skip mulching when the weather cools. It also helps stabilize soil temperature, which matters a lot for the cool-season crops that love a steady, moderate root zone. View our blog post Moisture & Mulch
Biodiversity Is Your Best Pest Defense
Planting a wide variety of species in each bed—rather than single-crop rows—creates a living ecosystem that supports beneficial insects, birds, pollinators, and the invisible world of soil organisms. All of that biological activity helps your garden handle summer stress and fight off pest pressure far better than any spray can. When you build true biodiversity into your beds, you also reduce the need for classic crop rotation, which is mainly a strategy for mono-culture-style growing. View our blog post Bio-diverse Community Landscape.
Plant in Waves to Keep Harvesting All Season
Succession planting is one of the most satisfying strategies in summer and fall gardening. Instead of sowing everything at once and ending up with a glut followed by a gap, stagger your plantings every two to three weeks. Quick crops like beans, lettuce, radishes, and cilantro are perfect for this approach. Your garden stays full, your harvests stay manageable, and you're far less likely to be drowning in zucchini while your next round of greens is still just a seedling. View our blog post Succession Planting Basics.
Grow Up, Not Just Out
Trellises and vertical supports are worth their weight in gold in a summer garden. Vining crops like cucumbers, pole beans, and winter squash take up far less ground space when grown vertically, and they're easier to harvest and less prone to disease because air can circulate around the leaves. If you're short on space—or even if you're not—training plants upward is almost always the smarter move. View our blog post Grow Vertically on a Trellis
Summer Planting (June–August)
Summer gardening is all about warmth, moisture, and momentum. This is the season for the crops that love the heat: beans, cucumbers, squash, melons, and the full range of summer herbs. It's also the time when your habits around watering and feeding matter most.
What to Plant in June to August
The warm-season stars of a summer garden are beans (both bush and pole varieties), cucumbers, summer squash, winter squash, and melons. These crops want heat, good drainage, and consistent moisture—give them that and they'll produce prolifically. On the herb side, basil, dill, and cilantro are summer staples, but keep in mind that cilantro bolts quickly in heat, so succession sow it every two to three weeks to keep a steady supply coming.
For greens in summer, forget spinach and head lettuce—they'll bolt before you can harvest them. Instead, lean into the heat-tolerant alternatives: Swiss chard, young kale leaves, Malabar spinach, amaranth, and purslane all thrive when the temperature climbs. They're not always the most glamorous greens, but they're productive and nutritious when most other greens have given up. View our blog post Leafy Greens Planting Calendar
Watering and Feeding Tips
In summer, the goal is deep, infrequent watering rather than frequent shallow watering. When you water deeply—enough to reach six to eight inches into the soil—you train roots to grow down toward moisture rather than staying near the surface. Surface-rooted plants suffer far more in heat waves. Water in the morning whenever possible to reduce evaporation and discourage the fungal diseases that thrive when foliage stays wet overnight. View our blog post Moisture & Mulch.
During heat waves, a light shade cloth over tender greens can be the difference between keeping them and losing them. It's a simple tool that buys you a lot of flexibility. View our blog post Installing Hoops on Raised Beds.
Fall Planting (August–November)
Fall is where Deep Roots methods really shine. Cooler air temperatures mean fewer pest problems, less evaporation, and conditions that bring out the best in leafy greens and root vegetables. Many growers find fall their most productive and most enjoyable season once they get the timing right.
What to Plant August to November
The fall garden belongs to cold-tolerant leafy greens: lettuce, spinach, arugula, mustard greens, kale, and collards all thrive as temperatures drop. Root vegetables—carrots, beets, radishes, turnips, and rutabaga—love fall's cool soil and often develop sweeter flavor after the first light frosts. On the herb side, parsley and cilantro (which struggled all summer) come back strong in cool weather.
Fall is also the time to plant garlic—not for this season, but for next summer's harvest. Garlic cloves go in during mid-to-late fall and overwinter in the ground, developing into full heads ready to harvest the following year. It's one of the most satisfying long-game crops in the garden. View our blog post Planting Garlic in Fall.
Timing Is Everything in Fall
The most common mistake in fall gardening is starting too late. You want your fall crops in the ground while the soil is still warm enough to support germination and early growth—not after the first cold snap when the soil has already chilled. A good rule of thumb: count back from your first expected frost date and give yourself at least six to eight weeks of growing time for most crops.
Once your crops are established and frost threatens, row cover fabric becomes your most valuable tool. Even a single layer of lightweight fabric can protect plants through multiple hard frosts, extending your harvest by weeks. Pair it with wire hoops to keep the fabric off the foliage and it's a system you'll use every fall. View our blog post Installing Hoops on Raised Beds
Hardening Off Your Transplants
Whether you're moving summer seedlings outside in June or transitioning fall starts from a protected space in August, hardening off is a step you can't skip. Seedlings grown indoors or in a greenhouse are not ready for the wind, temperature swings, and intensity of direct sunlight in your garden. Moving them straight outside is a shock that sets them back significantly—and sometimes kills them outright.
Start the hardening off process one to two weeks before you plan to transplant. Begin by bringing seedlings outside for just an hour or two in a sheltered spot, then gradually increase their outdoor time each day. Avoid exposing them to very windy conditions early on—wind desiccates tender leaves quickly. After a week or so of this gradual transition, they'll be ready to move into the garden and hit the ground running. View our blog post Hardening Off Seedlings
Summer & Fall Planting Calendar (Zone 5–6)
The dates below are calibrated for Zone 5–6. Adjust slightly based on your local climate and first frost date. Use this as a living checklist—something you'll refer to throughout the season rather than read once and file away.
JUNE
Direct seed: Beans (bush and pole), cucumbers, squash, another round of basil and dill.
Transplant: Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant if not already in the ground. Basil and other summer herbs.
JULY
Direct seed: Another round of beans for a second wave of harvest. Start carrots and beets for fall. Sow basil again—it's worth it.
Transplant: Begin fall brassicas from transplants if you grow them. Kale and collards are the easiest to establish. Important note: Swede Midge fly has recently spread throughout the Midwest and attacks only brassicas. We strongly recommend avoiding brassicas with large heads—cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower are especially vulnerable. If you grow kale and collards, harvest leaves before they get too large to limit exposure. View our blog post Swede Midge Fly Management
AUGUST
Direct seed (fall begins): Lettuce, arugula, and radishes—repeat every 10 to 14 days. Spinach from late August into September. Turnips and beets, with early August often being the sweet spot for best results.
Transplant: Fall lettuce starts, kale, and chard.
SEPTEMBER
Direct seed: Spinach, lettuce, arugula, and radishes. Cilantro and parsley thrive again in cool weather.
Protect: Have row cover ready to deploy on nights that threaten frost. It's easier to put it on before you need it than to react the morning after a frost.
OCTOBER to NOVEMBER
Harvest hardy greens well into frost season—with row cover, many crops will keep producing far longer than you'd expect. Plant garlic in mid-to-late fall for next summer's harvest. Top-dress beds with about two inches of compost to recharge them for the following growing season. View our blog post Putting Your Bed to Bed for the Winter
Quick Companion Planting Ideas
Companion planting is an easy way to get more out of your space while supporting the natural relationships between plants. Cucumbers planted near dill attract the beneficial insects that keep pest populations in check. Beans and carrots make great neighbors—beans fix nitrogen that feeds the carrots, and their root structures complement each other underground. Lettuce thrives when tucked under taller plants that cast light shade during the hottest part of summer days. And the classic pairing of carrots with onions or leeks is one of the oldest tricks in the garden: their different scents confuse the pests that target each crop. View our blog post Companion Planting Guide.
Summer & Fall Pest Management
The best pest management strategy starts well before any pest shows up. Healthy soil grows resilient plants, and resilient plants resist pest pressure on their own. Biodiversity in your beds supports the predatory insects—ground beetles, lacewings, parasitic wasps—that keep pest populations naturally in check. When you combine rich soil, diverse plantings, and regular observation, you rarely need to reach for any kind of intervention.
That said, staying ahead of problems means checking your plants often—at least a few times a week during the height of summer. Catching issues early, when they're still small, makes a huge difference. When a crop is particularly vulnerable (think young brassica seedlings or ripening melons), hoops with netting provide reliable physical protection without chemicals. When you do need to treat, choose gentle, targeted organic tools that address the specific problem without disrupting the rest of the ecosystem you've worked to build. View our blog post Environmental Pest Management (EPM)
Your Two-Season Game Plan
Summer and fall can feel like a lot to manage, but they really come down to a handful of consistent habits. If you focus on just four things, let them be these:
Feed the soil. A light touch in summer, a more generous recharge in fall. The microbes do the rest.
Mulch for moisture. Lay it early, keep it on all season, and weed pressure drops dramatically.
Plant in waves. Succession sowing keeps your garden productive and your harvests manageable from June through November.
Use row cover on hoops. It's the simplest tool for extending your fall season—sometimes by a month or more. Or use shade cloth to protect heat sensitive plants.
Do those four things well, and the rest of the season tends to take care of itself.
Happy Growing!
Companion Planting Guide
Companion planting is one of the simplest ways to create a healthier, more productive garden. By growing certain crops together, gardeners can naturally improve plant health, reduce pest problems, make better use of limited space, and even increase harvests.
Companion planting is one of the simplest ways to create a healthier, more productive garden. By growing certain crops together, gardeners can naturally improve plant health, reduce pest problems, make better use of limited space, and even increase harvests. Whether you are planting in raised beds, rows, or containers, a little planning can go a long way.
Smart Pairings for Spring Garden
Early spring is the perfect time to put companion planting into practice. Cool-season vegetables and herbs often grow well side by side, and thoughtful pairings can help you get the most from every square foot of soil. If you want steady harvests throughout the season, sow fast-growing crops every two to three weeks. This succession planting method keeps fresh produce coming while making sure your garden beds stay productive.
Another key to success is space efficiency. Use vertical supports such as trellises for peas and other climbing crops, and tuck smaller or quicker-growing plants between slower-maturing vegetables. This layered approach helps you harvest more from the same area while keeping the garden full and lively.
Why Companion Planting Works
Companion planting is based on the idea that plants can support one another in different ways. Some crops repel harmful insects, while others attract pollinators and beneficial predators. Some pairings make better use of light, water, and soil space. Others simply grow well together because they mature at different speeds and do not compete heavily for nutrients.
For spring gardeners, companion planting offers several major benefits:
improved plant health
natural pest management
better use of garden space
higher yields over time
Companion Pairings for Early Spring Crops
Here are some of the best crop combinations to try in your spring garden.
Carrots and Onions or Leeks
Carrots and onions are one of the most well-known companion planting pairs. Onions and leeks help repel carrot rust flies, a common pest that can damage carrot roots. In return, carrots do not compete too aggressively with alliums, making them a practical match in the same bed. This pairing is especially useful for gardeners looking for a natural way to protect carrots without relying on sprays.
Peas and Spinach
Peas and spinach make a great early-season team. As the weather begins to warm, peas can offer light shade that helps spinach stay cooler a little longer. Since spinach tends to bolt in rising temperatures, this extra protection can extend your harvest. Peas also grow upward when trained on a trellis, leaving more room below for leafy greens.
Beets and Lettuce
Beets take time to size up, leaving open spaces between plants early in the season. Lettuce is an ideal companion because it grows quickly and fills those gaps efficiently. While the beets are still developing, you can harvest lettuce from the same bed. This is a smart way to maximize garden space and avoid leaving bare soil exposed.
Radishes and Carrots
Radishes are often planted with carrots because they sprout much faster. As radishes grow, they help loosen the soil, making it easier for slower-germinating carrots to push through. Radishes also act as a marker crop, showing you where your carrot rows are before the carrots become visible. By the time carrots need more space, the radishes are often ready to harvest.
Lettuce and Cilantro
Lettuce and cilantro grow well together in cool spring weather, but their benefits go beyond timing. Cilantro can help deter aphids, which are a frequent nuisance on tender leafy greens. This pairing works especially well in small kitchen gardens where gardeners want both beauty and function in one planting space.
Parsley and Carrots
Parsley and carrots belong to the same family, but they can still be useful companions when grown thoughtfully. Parsley helps attract beneficial insects such as hoverflies, whose larvae feed on soft-bodied pests like aphids. Adding more insect-friendly herbs to the garden supports a healthier growing environment overall.
Peas and Mint
Peas and mint can be a helpful combination because mint may deter aphids. However, mint is an aggressive spreader and should always be planted in containers rather than directly in the garden bed. Kept under control, it can still provide its pest-repelling benefits without taking over nearby crops.
Pairings to Avoid
Just as some plants help one another, others can cause problems when grown too close together. Avoiding poor matches is just as important as choosing good ones.
Carrots and Dill
Although carrots and dill are related, dill can stunt carrot growth. Keeping them apart helps carrots develop properly without unnecessary competition or interference.
Peas and Onions
Peas generally do not grow well near onions and other alliums. Onions can inhibit pea growth, so it is best to plant them in separate areas of the garden.
Beets and Pole Beans
Beets and pole beans are not the best companions because they can compete for nutrients. When plants are too demanding in the same space, neither may perform at its best.
Fennel and Most Vegetables
Fennel is known for being a difficult garden neighbor. It releases chemicals that can interfere with the growth of many other vegetables. Because of this, fennel is usually best planted on its own, away from the main garden beds.
Best results from companion planting
Think of your garden as a system rather than a collection of individual crops. Combine plant pairings with a few practical strategies:
Succession sowing is one of the easiest ways to keep beds productive. Fast-growing crops like lettuce, spinach, radishes, and cilantro can be sown every two to three weeks for a continuous harvest.
Vertical growing also makes a major difference. Trellising peas saves ground space and opens room for lower-growing companions.
Interplanting is another valuable technique. Place smaller or quick-maturing crops between vegetables that take longer to develop, such as beets or carrots. This helps reduce wasted space and keeps the garden working harder for you.
Finally, observe your garden closely. Companion planting is part science and part experience. What works especially well in one climate or soil type may need slight adjustments in another.
Final Thoughts
Companion planting is a practical, natural way to build a more resilient spring garden. With the right combinations, you can discourage pests, support beneficial insects, improve space usage, and enjoy better harvests throughout the season. Start with a few proven pairings, avoid known problem combinations, and keep planting in succession for fresh crops over many weeks.
A well-planned garden does not just grow more food. It grows smarter.
Hardening Off Seedlings
You’ve babied your seedlings indoors for weeks. Before they go into the garden, they need one more step – hardening off.
You’ve babied your seedlings indoors for weeks. Before they go into the garden, they need one more step – hardening off. Hardening off is the gradual process of getting indoor-grown seedlings used to outdoor conditions before transplanting. It helps them adjust to stronger sunlight, wind, cooler temperatures, rain, and lower humidity. Without it, tender seedlings can wilt, scorch, or stall after planting.
Get your indoor seedlings used to outdoors
This matters because indoor seedlings have lived a protected life. Their leaves are softer, their stems are weaker, and they are not ready for the stress of open air and direct sun. A proper hardening-off period helps plants develop tougher leaves, sturdier stems, and better resistance to transplant shock.
Start gradually: Start hardening off seedlings 7 to 14 days before transplanting. In general, put them outside for 1 to 2 hours on the first day in a sheltered, shady spot. Then add about an hour of outdoor time each day. Gradually increase light exposure too, moving from shade to morning sun and eventually to longer periods outside.
Always watch the forecast. A cold snap or strong wind can undo a week of progress. Bring plants in if strong wind, heavy rain, or cold temperatures are expected. For most warm-season crops, do not leave them out if temperatures fall below 45°F, and some crops need warmer conditions than that.
A simple hardening-off schedule looks like this:
Days 1–2: Sheltered shade for 1–2 hours
Days 3–4: Morning sun and afternoon shade for 3–4 hours
Days 5–7: Longer outdoor exposure with some direct sun and light wind
Days 8–10: Outdoors most of the day
Days 11–14: Outdoors day and night, as long as frost is not expected
Different crops harden off at different speeds.
Tomatoes need about 10–14 days and should only be hardened when nights are consistently above 50°F. Start them in shade and increase sun exposure slowly.
Peppers and chilies are even more cold-sensitive than tomatoes and should not be exposed to temperatures below 55°F. Give them a sheltered, warm starting spot and take your time.
Cucumbers, squash, zucchini, and melons usually need 7–10 days. Their large leaves sunburn easily, so shade is especially important at the beginning.
Brassicas such as cabbage, broccoli, kale, and Brussels sprouts are among the easiest seedlings to harden off. Most can handle cooler weather and usually need 7–10 days, though cauliflower is more sensitive.
Lettuce and salad greens often need only 5–7 days. They handle cool weather well, but heat and intense midday sun can cause stress and bolting.
Beans and peas can also harden off in about 5–7 days if started indoors, though many gardeners prefer to direct sow them.
Herbs vary widely. Basil needs a long, warm hardening-off period and dislikes cool temperatures. Parsley is far tougher. Cilantro and dill harden quickly but can bolt in heat. Woody herbs such as thyme, oregano, rosemary, and chives are usually forgiving.
Common Mistakes
Moving too fast: Gardeners often make the same few mistakes when hardening off seedlings. The biggest is moving too fast. A warm, sunny day can make it tempting to leave plants out all day, but that often leads to sun-scald and wilting.
Ignoring wind: Another common mistake is ignoring wind. Even light wind can dehydrate tender seedlings quickly. And of course, skipping hardening off altogether is risky; healthy-looking indoor seedlings may collapse within hours of transplanting if they are not prepared.
How do you know your plants are ready? Hardened seedlings usually have thicker, tougher-looking leaves and sturdier stems. They can handle a full day outdoors without wilting or scorching. Once they have spent several days outside successfully, including overnight when conditions are safe, they are ready to go into the garden.
For the final transplant, choose a calm or cloudy day if possible, and water well after planting. That extra patience pays off in stronger, more resilient plants.
Watering, Moisture and Mulch
Although deep watering is usually best, over watering can also stress your plants. Of course, there will be a lot of variables to take into consideration – such as the amount of rain and other weather conditions. Do a simple moisture test with your finger on the top 2 to 4 inches of soil before you water. Be careful about the watering tips you see circulating on the internet or in Youtube videos!
Different plants need different kinds of watering. Some veggies need more frequent and deeper watering than others. Seeds and seedlings need to be constantly moist. Although deep watering is sometimes best, over watering can also stress your plants. Of course, there will be a lot of variables to take into consideration – such as the amount of rain and other weather conditions. Do a simple moisture test with your finger on the top 2 to 4 inches of soil before you water. Be careful about the watering tips you see circulating on the internet or in YouTube videos!
Proper watering is critical to plant health
Just as soil health depends on the latest soil science – the same is true of about watering edible plants.The Deep Roots method creates the best environment for your plants because our compost used as soil has good drainage and lets the water get to the plant roots quickly. We recommend installing drip irrigation if you don’t have time to water or go out of town often. Take time to correctly set the irrigation timing and amount.
DON’T water a little everyday!
Because It promotes shallow roots. One of the worst practices is to water your garden lightly every day or every few days. This frequent sprinkling provides water to only the top layer of the soil and promotes shallow root systems.
Simple, standard suggestions like: water every day and “make sure you give your plants an inch of water each week” are now being questioned and re-evaluated. Because the plant’s roots are not close to the soil surface, we now know that the water needs to get deep enough. AND the roots need to have enough time to soak it up will allow the plants to develop deep root systems that are necessary to be healthy.
But, be careful since over watering stresses many plants. If top 2 inches of soil feels dry it’s time to water. Soak the soil to a depth of 4 to 6 inches. Test for soil moisture also after you water.
Overhead watering (sprinklers) is the least efficient and least preferred method of watering. Far too much of the water is lost to evaporation. Water the soil, not the plants with a soaker hose, drip irrigation, watering can or watering wand. Overhead watering substantially increases the risk of fungal disease, especially in humid and rainy climates.
Watering tips from our horticulturist
Some conventional soils can have drainage problems, so too much water does not allow plant roots to breathe and will cause plants to wilt from lack of oxygen.
Don’t water too fast. Water gently at all times. When watering with a hose, avoid a hard stream of water, which risks injuring your plants and the soil. Use a steady, gentle shower of water instead – but only on the soil, not the plants.
If you are using municipal water, put a water filter on your hose or water source. Municipal water often has levels of chlorine that kill essential microorganisms. There are also many harmful pollutants in some city water.
Lack of water stresses plants. Drought may produce stunted fruit, produce no fruit at all, or may produce tasteless, woody, or unpalatable fruit.
Over watering stresses plants. Over watering can cause as much stress as severe drought. Too much water will saturate soils, displace air which starves the roots of oxygen. The compost Deep Roots uses instead of conventional soil (Microbe Rich Compost) has good drainage properties.
Keep SEEDS moist at all times. Germinating seeds must be constantly moist. Watering seeds twice a day may be needed on dry hot days. It’s easiest to let drip irrigation water your seeds. Some gardeners without irrigation have found a work-around that saves time and constant attention.
Place a board or large tiles over tiny carrot seeds. This keeps the moisture in the soil longer and protects them from being washed away by heavy rain. Make note of how many days it takes for the first sign of germination. Check the seeds everyday when it is close to germination. Remove the cover when the first seed sprouts. Some seeds will sprout sooner and some later. Carrot seeds are very tiny and need to be kept constantly moisturized more carefully.
Keep SEEDLINGS moist at all times and water daily or more often for 2 weeks. When the seedling is at least 5 inches tall its roots are stronger and constant monitoring is not necessary. Test soil before and after watering and water gently and deeply as needed.
Don’t over water seeds! Finding the right amount of water for your seeds is difficult. Not enough and they will not germinate - BUT too much and they could rot. Just to be safe - water seeds lightly twice a day - you just need to moisten the top layer.
When plant leaves wilt on a very hot day, it could be from the heat and not lack of water.
Prune off lower foliage of plants prone to fungal diseases that prefer damp environments like powdery mildew on cucumbers and squash) and like tomato blights. Water very close to the soil with a watering wand on a hose or a watering can. Avoid wetting the leaves. Water early in the day
Health of mature plants is dependent on correct watering. Remember that large plants need a lot more water than seedlings. We want mature plants to have deeper roots that suck lots of water out of the soil.
A drip irrigation system nurtures healthier plants and less stressed gardeners. If you can’t or don’t want to water and monitor your soil moisture constantly get a drip irrigation system. Drip irrigation should be the watering method of choice. It will save you time and make your plants stronger, happier and healthier. The larger your garden the more critical drip irrigation becomes. Contact the Deep Roots team for advice on installing the new system we designed.Seed watering tips
Use our Planting Calendar blog posts for more useful seed starting tips like spring/ simmer/fall planting dates, soil temperature, temperature tolerances, direct seed vs transplants, seed depth, sunlight, and days to maturity. Choose from 9 planting calendar blog posts organized by crop group on our Planting Calendar and Climate blog category page: brassicas, cucurbits, fruiting crops, leafy greens, legumes, root crops, herbs, and berries.
Seed watering tips
To check if it's time to water your seeds, dig down about 3 inches — if the soil feels dry, go ahead and water. Always water in the early morning so the plants have time to dry throughout the day, which helps prevent mildew and disease. If conditions are exceptionally hot, dry, or windy, check the soil moisture and consider a second light watering to prevent the soil from drying out. Water gently so you do not wash seeds out of place, and always check the soil before watering again. Raised beds and containers dry out faster than in-ground beds, so they usually need more frequent attention.
Watering popular veggie seeds
Peas: Water pea seeds once daily, preferably in the morning, if no rain is forecast for several days, to keep the soil consistently moist, but not waterlogged. During germination, keep the top 1-2 inches of soil consistently moist, as seeds must not dry out during this stage. Once seedlings are established, switch to deep, infrequent watering of about 1 inch per week to encourage strong root development, avoiding light daily watering.
Tomatoes and peppers: Keep indoor seed-starting mix evenly moist but not soggy. Indoors or in trays, mist or water gently whenever the surface starts to dry, often about once a day. Or place water in a shallow lower tray which the seed soil can absorb. After sprouting, let the very top of the mix dry slightly between waterings while keeping the root zone moist.
Cucumbers, zucchini, and squash: These larger seeds need steady moisture to germinate, but they can rot in waterlogged soil. Water well at planting, then check daily and rewater when the top inch begins to dry. In hot, dry, or windy weather, containers may need a second light watering.
Beans: Keep the soil lightly moist until sprouts emerge, but avoid heavy watering because bean seeds can rot in cold, soggy soil. Once seedlings are established, switch to deeper, less frequent watering of about 1 inch per week, adjusted for rain and heat.
Carrots and lettuce: Because these seeds are small and shallowly sown, the soil surface must stay consistently moist. Use a fine spray once or twice daily if needed so the top layer does not crust over or dry out before germination. Or, initially place a board over the seeds to stop evaporation. But check under the board daily, and remove it when sprouts appear.
Radishes and beets: Maintain even moisture during germination with light daily watering as needed. After seedlings are up, water more deeply and less often to support steady root growth and help prevent stress.
Cover soil with straw mulch & compost
Retaining as much moisture as possible saves watering time and keeps your plant healthy and happy. Our method use two layers – a one inch layer of compost covered by a couple inches of cut-up straw. Don’t use hay since it can add unwanted seeds to your garden. We grow our own straw by planting a large beautiful prairie grass called Miscanthus. Over winter the grass dries and in the spring we cut it down and store it in large barrels with lids. Keeping the straw dry is important.
Where to buy straw in Chicago area
Straw is often considered a seasonal item (spring for gardening, fall for decorations), so calling ahead is recommended. Look for "weed-free" wheat straw to avoid adding weeds to your garden beds.. Straw for garden mulch in Chicago and suburbs is available at local nurseries, farm supply stores, and major retailers like The Home Depot and Lowe's.
The Home Depot (Brickyard & others): Often sells straw bales in the summer, particularly in suburban locations like Mount Prospect.
Lowe's (Brickyard & others): Stocks straw, including HealthiStraw and pine needles.
Farmers Market Garden Center (Chicago - N. Elston Ave): A local favorite for varied gardening needs.
Wasco Nursery (St. Charles): High-quality straw bales in small and large sizes, ideal for gardening and mulch.
Tameling Industries (Willowbrook): A large supplier for both landscape professionals and homeowners in the Chicago area.
Fox Landscape Supply (Plainfield): Offers various landscape supplies, including agricultural materials.
The Mulch Center (Libertyville/North Suburbs): Specializes in landscape materials and offers delivery.
Meinke Garden Center (Niles): Well-rated for diverse garden products.
Urhausen Greenhouses (Lincolnwood): Known for gardening supplies near the city.
Tractor Supply Co. (Various locations): Identified as an affordable option (approx. $8-$9 a bale) that often carries clean wheat straw.
“Grow Your Own Food” blog posts
Questions, comments, suggestions? We’d love to hear from you! Send photos of your garden too!
See the full list of our Grow Your Own Food blog posts. Our blog posts are divided into 6 categories – each with its own page of blog post photos and summaries.
Questions, comments, suggestions? We’d love to hear from you! If you need a quick answer to a gardening question give us a call or send a text. We are here to solve your gardening problems. Please call OR text our Customer Service team at 708-655-5299 OR send an email to: support@deep-roots-project.org.
Deep Roots online store
See our online store for details about prices, ordering and delivery of raised beds, planter boxes, microbe-rich compost, worm castings, leaf mulch and more. We don’t sell traditional soil, since we use 100% compost as our growing medium. Our online store has 2 sections – (1) raised beds and planter boxes and (2) compost, worm castings, fertilizer.
Please contact our customer support team before placing an order online so we can assist you with the details and answer your gardening questions. You can pay by credit card on the store or by check.
(708) 655-5299 and support[at]deep-roots-project.org
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Growing Garlic, Onions & Alliums
Garlic and onions are often casually grouped with root vegetables — but that is botanically incorrect. Garlic, onions, shallots, leeks, scallions, and chives all belong to the allium family: plants that grow as bulbs, which are modified stems surrounded by fleshy leaf bases.
When grown in loose, fertile soil rich in organic matter, alliums reward gardeners with large bulbs, excellent flavor, and long storage life. In many ways, alliums are indicators of how well the underground ecosystem is functioning.
What Are Alliums?
Garlic and onions are often casually grouped with root vegetables — but that is botanically incorrect. Garlic, onions, shallots, leeks, scallions, and chives all belong to the allium family: plants that grow as bulbs, which are modified stems surrounded by fleshy leaf bases. The underground bulb we harvest is not a root at all, but a tightly layered structure formed from swollen leaf bases attached to a small root plate.
This distinction matters for how we grow them. Root crops expand underground storage roots, while alliums build layered bulbs in response to seasonal signals — a combination of cold exposure, soil conditions, and day length. Because allium roots stay shallow, they cannot forage for nutrients deeper down and depend entirely on whatever is in the top layer of soil. Good soil structure and a healthy microbial environment are therefore essential.
When grown in loose, fertile soil rich in organic matter, alliums reward gardeners with large bulbs, excellent flavor, and long storage life. In many ways, alliums are indicators of how well the underground ecosystem is functioning. Garlic and alliums thrive in nutrient-rich conditions, but less nutrients (especially nitrogen) than fruiting and leafy veggies above ground.
Garlic Planting & Care Calendar
Fall Planting: Garlic is one of the simplest and most rewarding crops to plant in fall. The goal is to give each clove time to root before the ground freezes, without encouraging much top growth before winter. Plant garlic about 3–4 weeks before the ground freezes, ideally after the first hard frost. In Zone 6a, this typically means mid-October to early November. The cold exposure triggers proper bulb formation. Plant cloves pointed-end up, about 2 inches deep — a little deeper in sandy soil — and space them about 6 inches apart.
Hardneck garlic: For colder climates like Zones 5b–6a, hardneck garlic is usually the best choice. It handles winter well and produces the bold flavor many gardeners are looking for.
Soil blend: With garlic, more nutrients is not always better. A strong start, a light touch, and healthy soil do most of the work. Mix 30% Deep Root high-nutrient compost with 70% sandy loam topsoil. We sell 100% low nutrient sandy loam topsoil for alliums and TRUE root veggies like carrots and beets. Don’t add compost or worm castings into garlic planting holes as we do for leafy and fruiting veggies. Too much compost (above 40%) retains excess moisture and raises the risk of bulb rot. Very high nutrients keep garlic bulbs small. Soil pH between 6.0 and 7.0 is best
PhoSul fertilizer: Add a small amount of PhoSul fertilizer – at most an 1/8 teaspoon – in the clove hole. Phosphorus supports early root development, and sulfur is especially valuable for alliums, helping build the flavor and natural protective compounds that make garlic such a standout crop. PhoSul is gentle, so even slightly more won’t matter. When you buy our low-nutrient topsoil for root veggies, we will give you a small bag of PhoSul
Straw mulch: After planting, cover the bed with 2 to 4 inches of straw mulch to help regulate soil temperature, reduce frost heaving, and suppress early weeds.
Spring “top-dress” fertilizing: In spring, when garlic shoots reach about 4 to 6 inches tall, spread across the entire garlic bed surface a half inch layer of compost and worm castings. Garlic’s feeder roots spread outward not down, so a gentle bed-wide top-dress works better than fertilizing only at the stem.
Testing in Progress: Spring 2026 is our first season using the new low nutrient topsoil for alliums and root veggies. We invite our gardeners to experiment with us and watch how their garlic responds. Our goal is to find the minimum effective amount for strong growth and healthy bulb development in a soil blend that is already rich and active.
June Garlic Scape Removal
Hardneck garlic sends up a curling flower stalk called a “scape” in early summer. Snap or cut it off as soon as it completes one full curl. Leaving the scape to flower diverts significant energy away from the bulb — removing it can increase bulb size by up to 30%. This is one of the most impactful and most commonly overlooked steps in garlic culture. Scapes are a culinary treat: mild, sweet garlic flavor with a tender-crisp texture similar to asparagus. Use them sautéed, grilled, in stir-fries, or blended into pesto.
Spring and early summer watering
During spring and early summer, garlic benefits from consistent moisture while the bulbs are expanding. As harvest approaches, stop watering completely about two weeks before you plan to harvest. This allows the bulb’s outer wrapper layers to dry and paper over properly — essential for quality and long storage.
July Garlic Harvest
Harvest when one-third to one-half of the lower leaves have turned brown while the upper leaves are still green. Do not wait for full browning — by then the protective wrapper has often begun to deteriorate and cloves may be separating. Loosen bulbs gently with a garden fork rather than pulling by the stem. Brush off loose soil but do not wash.
After Harvest Curing Garlic
Hang bulbs or lay them in a single layer in a shaded, well-ventilated spot for 3–4 weeks. Proper curing converts fresh-dug garlic into shelf-stable bulbs that store for months. Once fully cured, trim the roots and stems and store in a cool, dry location with good air circulation — never in sealed plastic.
Onions and Other Alliums
Garlic shares its family with onions, shallots, leeks, scallions, and chives. All share key characteristics: they grow from bulbs or bulb-like bases, have shallow root systems, and prefer loose, fertile soils rich in organic matter. Like garlic, they rely on temperature and day length to trigger bulb development. Well-prepared Deep Roots beds with balanced compost content serve all alliums well.
Companion Planting: Garlic & Spinach
Garlic and spinach make excellent companions in fall-planted beds. Garlic’s scent deters pests like aphids that bother leafy greens, providing natural protection for the spinach in spring.
Plant garlic cloves and spinach seeds in the same bed in mid-October to early November.
Spinach sown in fall will overwinter under mulch or germinate early in spring, maturing well before garlic needs the full bed.
Inter-plant spinach between rows of garlic. Spinach can be harvested by May or early June — long before the July garlic harvest.
Use hardneck garlic varieties, which are better suited to Zone 5 winters.
Planting Calendar Climate Zone 6a
Most gardeners in the Chicago area are now considered Zone 6a, due in part to the warming effects of Lake Michigan and long-term climate change.
Most gardeners in the Chicago area are now considered Zone 6a, due in part to the warming effects of Lake Michigan and long-term climate change. The lake moderates temperatures, creating slightly warmer winters and cooler summers, especially in the city and nearby suburbs. This shift means that older planting calendars based strictly on Zone 5b are no longer fully accurate for many gardeners in our area. It’s time to Unleash Your Green Thumb.
Planting Calendars Zone 6a
A reliable way to decide when to plant
Checkout Our Calendars for each Plant Family Later in this Post!
The United States is divided into 13 plant hardiness zones based on average winter temperatures. These zones help gardeners understand what can survive in their region, but they don’t tell the whole story about when to plant. If you want a deeper explanation, see our blog post What Are Climate Zones?
Most gardeners in the Chicago area are now considered Zone 6a, due in part to the warming effects of Lake Michigan and long-term climate change. The lake moderates temperatures, creating slightly warmer winters and cooler summers, especially in the city and nearby suburbs. This shift means that older planting calendars based strictly on Zone 5b are no longer fully accurate for many gardeners in our area.
Frost dates alone are not reliable
For many years, planting calendars have been based on average frost dates. In northern Illinois, the last spring frost typically occurs in early to mid-May, and the first fall frost arrives in early to mid-October. These dates still provide a rough framework, but they are no longer reliable enough on their own. Weather patterns have become more unpredictable, and planting too early or too late based on calendar dates alone can lead to disappointing results.
Soil temperature is dependable.
Because of this, we are shifting to a more dependable approach: soil temperature. Soil temperature is one of the most important factors for seed germination and plant growth. Cool-season crops can be planted in cooler soil, while warm-season crops require much warmer conditions to grow successfully. In our updated planting calendars, we include both ideal soil temperatures (to help you decide when to plant) and temperature tolerances (to show what each crop can survive). This gives you a more flexible and accurate system that adapts to real conditions in your garden.
Planting dates are really planting windows
The planting dates in our charts should be viewed as planting windows, not exact deadlines. Beginners should plant toward the warmer end of each window to reduce risk. More experienced gardeners can take advantage of earlier or later planting by using simple tools like row covers and cold frames. Over time, you will learn how to adjust planting based on weather patterns, soil conditions, and experience.
Raised beds are especially helpful for managing these variables. They warm up faster in the spring, drain well, and can be easily covered during cold nights. Even a lightweight row cover can provide a few degrees of protection, while heavier covers can extend your season even further. These tools allow you to plant earlier in spring and continue harvesting later into fall.
Root veggies need their own soil
One of the most important things we’ve learned at Deep Roots is that not all vegetables should be grown in the same soil. Most crops thrive in our microbe-rich compost beds, but root crops and alliums—like carrots, beets, garlic, and onions—do not perform well in high-nutrient compost. Instead, they grow best in a more balanced mineral soil. This season, we are introducing a new root veggie soil system along with a phosphorus-based fertilizer (PhoSul), and we invite gardeners to test this approach with us. You can learn more in our Root Veggie Growing Method blog post.
Calendars for each Plant Family
To make everything easier to use, we’ve reorganized our planting calendars into separate plant families, each with its own page. This makes the information much easier to navigate and allows you to focus on one group of crops at a time. Each planting calendar includes two simple tables: one for planting and setup, and one for growing conditions. Together, they provide everything you need to get started.
The plant families are: Brassicas, Cucurbits, Fruiting Plants, Leafy Greens, Legumes, Root Crops, Herbs, Berries and Alliums.
These calendars are based on averages and general patterns, so always check your seed packets for specific details about each variety. Some crops can tolerate cold and be planted early, while others require warm soil to grow at all. Understanding the difference between what a plant can survive and what it needs to thrive is one of the most important skills you can develop as a gardener.
Deep Roots gardening is not about doing more—it’s about doing the right things at the right time. By paying attention to soil temperature, planting windows, and the specific needs of each crop, you can grow healthier plants, reduce risk, and enjoy more consistent harvests year after year.
Explore the Planting Calendars
Growing Root Vegetables - A New Method
Use a dedicated bed and a different soil to grow root vegetables - Deep Roots explains why.
If you’ve been growing tomatoes, greens, and herbs in 100% Deep Roots microbe-rich compost and loving the results — this post is not asking you to change a thing. Your compost method is exactly right for those crops. This post is about one important exception: root vegetables.
Why root crops need different soil
Root veggie rules: Carrots, beets, radishes, parsnips, turnips, potatoes and rutabagas play by different rules than everything else in your garden. The very richness that makes your compost great for tomatoes works against root crops. The good news: the fix is simple, and Deep Roots has made it even simpler by doing most of the prep work for you.
Roots store energy. Root crops aren’t trying to grow fast — they’re trying to store energy underground. Carrots, beets and parsnips only do that when they receive a specific signal that says “nutrients are present, but limited.” When nitrogen is too high — as it often is in manure-based compost — that signal never comes. Instead, the plant keeps putting energy into leaves. This is why gardeners sometimes see beautiful, bushy tops and disappointingly small roots. The plant is doing exactly what the soil chemistry is telling it to do.
Loamy, gritty, well-drained soil. There is also a physical reason. Pure compost lacks the mineral structure that root crops evolved in. It holds too much water, dries unevenly, and encourages shallow or forked rooting. Root vegetables evolved in mineral soils — loamy, gritty, well-drained — with only modest organic matter. That’s what allows them to grow straight, large, and dense.
The solution: one dedicated root veggie bed
You don’t need to change your existing beds at all. Simply set up one dedicated root vegetable bed or large container with a different soil. Deep Roots will sell you the perfect soil to fill it – pulverized mineral topsoil — a clean, low-salt, loamy base that gives roots exactly the growing environment they need:
Low in nitrogen – so roots get the signal to store energy underground
Mineral-based – so roots can grow straight and deep without resistance
Low soluble salts – so roots absorb water freely and expand easily
Well-draining – so roots don’t fork, rot, or grow shallow
PhoSul: your new root veggie fertilizer
PhoSul is an OMRI-certified organic fertilizer made from rock phosphate and elemental sulfur. It contains no nitrogen — only phosphorus, which is the nutrient most responsible for root development in carrots, beets, parsnips, and turnips. It also releases calcium and silica as it breaks down, which gradually improves soil structure season after season.
Build-and-maintain amendment: The best part is that PhoSul doesn’t leach. Unlike nitrogen, which washes below the root zone every time you water, phosphorus bonds to soil particles and stays put. This means it builds a slow-releasing reserve your root crops can draw on all season long — without constant reapplication. Think of PhoSul as a build-and-maintain amendment, not a seasonal fertilizer you must continually renew. Instead, top it up lightly once a year, and over two to three seasons the bed will develop a stable phosphorus bank that works quietly beneath your root crops all season long.
To apply PhoSul: Put a pinch of PhoSul in your planting hole for seedlings and seeds. It is very gentle and a little extra will not matter. When you buy Deep Roots crop soil, we will give you a small ziplock bag of PhoSul to add in at planting.
Note - Root topsoil and PhoSul coming to our store in April 2026
Garlic and Onions are NOT root crops
Garlic, onions and leeks are alliums. It’s ideal soil and fertilizer has similarities to BOTH root veggies and above ground (fruiting and leafy) veggies. Garlic and other alliums are a heavy feeders that require nutrient-rich soil, generous organic matter, and good nitrogen levels in early spring to grow large bulbs. The Deep Roots compost-rich beds your tomatoes thrive in are too nutrient-rich for garlic and cause tiny under-developed bulbs. Read our blog post: Planting Garlic in Fall.
Alliums need a soil blend: The solution is growing garlic and other alliums in their own bed or container using a soil blend of 30% high nutrient compost and 70% low nutrient mineral topsoil. Plant in fall (mid-October to early November), mulch with 2–4 inches of straw, and apply a pinch of phosphorus fertilizer next to the clove or seed. In spring when seedlings reach 4–6 inches tall, top-dress (spread on all soil growing alliums) about a half inch of compost and worm castings. Harvest garlic when one-third to half of the leaves have browned..
Soil blends for regular and sweet potatoes
Sweet potatoes prefer well-drained low-nutrient sandy or loamy soil, do not require large quantities of organic matter, and over-fertilization tends to produce foliage instead of roots. That makes a leaner mix, around 20% rich compost, better than a rich one.
Regular Potato Soil Blend
Mix 2 parts low nutrient sandy loam with 1 part nutrient-richcompost. Blend thoroughly, then fill beds or containers with loose, well-drained soil. This gives regular potatoes enough fertility without making the mix overly heavy.
Sweet Potato Soil Blend
Mix 5 parts low nutrient sandy loam with 1 part nutrient-rich compost. Keep the blend light and only moderately fertile, since sweet potatoes produce better roots in leaner soil and too much richness can lead to excess vine growth.
Starting and Transplanting Root Vegetable Seedlings
Root vegetables that can be started indoors and transplanted include leeks, onions, and specifically "Clancy" variety potatoes, as they are less sensitive to root disturbance than others. Beets can sometimes be started indoors if transplanted very early, but most root crops like carrots, radishes, and parsnips are best direct-sown.
Root Vegetables for Indoor Starting
Leeks: Start 8-10 weeks before the last frost, as they handle transplanting well.
Onions: Can be started indoors 8-10 weeks early, with tops trimmed to 3 inches for stronger, transplant-ready plants.
Potatoes ('Clancy' variety): These can be started from seed indoors.
Beets: Generally better direct-sown, but can be started indoors and carefully separated if moved while small.
Why Most Root Crops Dislike Transplanting
Root vegetables develop a single taproot that is very sensitive to disturbance. Transplanting them often causes stunted, misshapen, or split roots.
Tips for Success
Use biodegradable pots (like peat pots) to minimize root disturbance during the move to the garden.
Ensure all plants are properly hardened off before moving them outside.
For root crops that must be direct-sown (carrots, radishes, turnips), it is best to do so as soon as the soil can be worked.
What to expect
Learning to grow root crops is not a complicated change. Use dedicated beds or containers, pre-filled with Deep Roots mineral soil and amended with PhoSul. Everything else about your gardening stays the same. Your compost beds keep doing what they do best for tomatoes and greens. Your root veggie bed gets the lean, mineral, low-salt environment that finally lets carrots be carrots and beets be beets.
Plant something. Feed something. Protect something.
Deep Roots Project is here for every step of the journey.
“Grow Your Own Food” blog posts
See the full list of our Grow Your Own Food blog posts. Each post is assigned ”tags” which are under the post title. If you need a quick answer to a gardening question give us a call or send a text to our customer support team – support[at]deep-roots-project.org AND 708-655-5299.
Deep Roots online store
See our online store for details about prices, ordering and delivery of raised beds, planter boxes, microbe-rich compost, worm castings, leaf mulch and more. We don’t sell traditional soil, since we use 100% compost as our growing medium. Our online store has 2 sections – (1) raised beds and planter boxes and (2) compost, worm castings, fertilizer.
Please contact our customer support team before placing an order online so we can assist you with the details and answer your gardening questions. You can pay by credit card in the store or by check.
(708) 655-5299 and support[at]deep-roots-project.org
Sign up for our newsletter
Please leave your cell phone number when you sign up for our eNewsletter, if you want text message announcements now and then.
Donations help us provide organic kitchen gardening education to individuals, organizations, and entire communities. Thank you in advance for contributing to our community and for sharing our website and blog with friends and family.
Workshop - Edible Garden Planning
Here is the slideshow from the Deep Roots Project Edible Garden Planning interactive workshop held Sunday, March 8, 2026 at the Oak Park Main Library.
Here is the presentation from our Deep Roots Project Edible Garden Planning workshop held on Sunday, March 8, 2026, at the Oak Park Main Library.
This workshop from Deep Roots was designed to help gardeners prepare for successful growing season.
We are posting here the presentation we gave at our March 8th, 2026 workshop.
Participants had the opportunity to review and develop their garden layouts, explore plant selection strategies, and learn how to use compost and natural fertilizers such as worm castings and fish emulsion to build healthy soil and increase harvests. The workshop also covered best practices for preparing and cleaning up garden spaces in advance of planting.
Additional topics included identifying sunlight patterns to select the right plants for different areas, effective watering techniques, and planning gardens to suit varying conditions and spaces. Expert gardeners will be on hand throughout the event to answer questions and provide individualized guidance.
This workshop is ideal for new, experienced or novice gardeners, experienced growers, and community groups looking to start or strengthen shared garden spaces. Attendees were encouraged to bring garden plans, questions, or ideas they would like to discuss and review.
“Grow Your Own Food” blog posts
See the full list of our Grow Your Own Food blog posts. Each post is assigned ”tags” which are under the post title. If you need a quick answer to a gardening question give us a call or send a text to our customer support team – support[at]deep-roots-project.org AND 708-655-5299.
Deep Roots online store
See our online store for details about prices, ordering and delivery of raised beds, planter boxes, microbe-rich compost, worm castings, leaf mulch and more. We don’t sell traditional soil, since we use 100% compost as our growing medium. Our online store has 2 sections – (1) raised beds and planter boxes and (2) compost, worm castings, fertilizer.
Please contact our customer support team before placing an order online so we can assist you with the details and answer your gardening questions. You can pay by credit card in the store or by check.
(708) 655-5299 and support[at]deep-roots-project.org
Sign up for our newsletter
Please leave your cell phone number when you sign up for our eNewsletter, if you want text message announcements now and then.
Donations help us provide organic kitchen gardening education to individuals, organizations, and entire communities. Thank you in advance for contributing to our community and for sharing our website and blog with friends and family.