Over-Winter Your Hot Pepper Plants

Hot peppers are tender perennials. In warm climates they can live for years, forming woody trunks and producing earlier, heavier harvests each season. In Zones 5 and 6, you can capture much of that benefit by overwintering a few favorite plants indoors. The idea is simple: move healthy peppers into pots before hard frost, keep them alive with minimal effort through winter, and set them back outside in spring for a head start.

How to Overwinter Hot Pepper Plants

Among the hot pepper varieties that successfully overwinter in pots indoors are Habanero, Thai chili, and Cayenne. These peppers, which are perennials in their native tropical climates, are more resilient and adapt more easily to overwintering than bell peppers or other sweet varieties. For the best results, select the healthiest, most compact plants for overwintering. 

Begin by choosing strong, compact plants that produced well this season. Skip any that are diseased, pest‑ridden, or severely stressed. About a week before moving them inside, remove flowers and small fruit and thin crowded branches to improve airflow. Give each plant a thorough rinse with a firm spray of water—especially the undersides of leaves—and let it dry. Follow with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil as directed on the label, and repeat several days later. If your peppers are in the ground, lift them with a generous root ball; if they’re already in containers, simply refresh the potting setup.

For winter containers, a 2‑ to 5‑gallon pot with large drainage holes works well. Deep Roots gardeners fill containers with 100% finished, microbe‑rich compost rather than a peat‑based mix, and we add a handful of high‑quality worm castings both in the planting hole and as a thin top‑dress. Plant peppers at the same depth they grew outdoors, water once to settle, and place a few coarse wood chips over the interior drain holes to prevent clogging—no pebbles needed.

Two Workable Paths

From here you have two workable paths. The lowest‑effort option is the semi‑dormant “stump” method. Cut the plant back to about 6–10 inches, leaving three to five main nubs with visible nodes, and remove most remaining leaves. Park the pot in a cool space around 50–65°F (10–18°C). A bright window is helpful but not essential. Water sparingly—wait until the top 2–3 inches of compost are dry, then water lightly. Skip fertilizer through winter; the compost biology and initial castings provide all the nutrition a resting plant needs. Expect little visible growth. That’s fine—the goal is survival, not production.

If you prefer greenery indoors or hope for an occasional winter pepper, keep the plant in light growth as a houseplant. Prune it back by roughly one‑third to one‑half to fit your space and lights, but leave some foliage. A sunny south window may suffice, though a simple LED grow light on a timer makes this method much more reliable. Aim the light 12–18 inches above the canopy for 12–14 hours daily. Keep temperatures around 65–75°F (18–24°C) with humidity in the 40–60% range; a pebble tray can help if your home is dry.

Water thoroughly when the top 1–2 inches of compost are dry and never leave water standing in the saucer. Once you see steady new growth, top‑dress a quarter to half an inch of worm castings about once a month and water it in. That, plus quality compost, usually replaces bottled fertilizers; if you like, add a very light fish/seaweed drench every three to four weeks. Expect modest winter growth and the occasional flower; fruit set is possible under strong light, but the real payoff comes in spring.

Indoor Pest Management

Indoor pest management is simple if you stay ahead of it. Check plants weekly, especially the undersides of leaves and tender new growth, for aphids, spider mites, whiteflies, and thrips. Yellow sticky cards help you catch flying pests early. If you see trouble, start by rinsing the plant in a sink or shower and gently wiping the leaves. Follow up with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, coating all leaf surfaces and repeating within a week if needed. For fungus gnats, let the top layer of compost dry a bit more between waterings, add a thin top‑layer of coarse sand or fine gravel, and use sticky cards to trap adults. Quarantine any new or returning plants for a week or two before placing them with other houseplants.

Late Winter

As days lengthen in late winter, gradually increase light intensity or duration to “wake” your peppers. Refresh the container with a little new compost and a fresh top‑dress of worm castings or step up to the final outdoor pot if needed—most hot peppers are happy in 3–7 gallons for the season. Tip‑prune leggy stems back to two to four nodes to encourage branching. Harden plants off over 7–10 days by introducing them to outdoor conditions a little at a time and set them outside for good once nights reliably stay above 50°F (10°C) and frost risk has passed. Overwintered peppers typically leaf out quickly, flower early, and yield sooner than first‑year plants.

If leaves yellow or drop after the move indoors, don’t panic—some shedding is normal. Over-watering is the most common winter mistake, so check moisture with your finger instead of watering on a schedule. If growth stretches and looks leggy, bring the lights closer or increase brightness, then lightly prune to shape. If flowers don’t appear indoors, that’s fine; focus on plant health now for a strong spring flush. Should pests persist despite gentle controls, it’s better to discard a badly infested plant than endanger the rest of your collection.

Deep Roots’ compost‑and‑castings approach shines indoors because living, microbe‑rich compost delivers a steady, biology‑mediated trickle of nutrients rather than the feast‑or‑famine swings of synthetic salts. Roots stay healthier, watering is more forgiving, and you can usually skip bottled fertilizer altogether. Just be sure your compost is truly finished, your container drains freely, and you water by touch.

Getting Started

To get started, gather clean bypass pruners and a rag with isopropyl alcohol for disinfecting, appropriately sized pots with generous drain holes, finished compost, premium worm castings, insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, and a few yellow sticky cards. An LED grow light, a simple plug‑in timer, and a pebble tray for humidity are inexpensive upgrades that improve success. Follow the steps above and your peppers will sleep comfortably through winter and greet spring ready to produce earlier and better than ever.

Join the Deep Roots movement

We’re not just about gardening; we’re about changing the way people grow food. Whether you have a tiny balcony or a full backyard, we’ll help you grow like a pro.

Stay in the loop: Signup for our email newsletter. If you also provide your phone number you will get text message updates that link to our best blog posts.

Get involved: Attend a free workshop, become a volunteer, grab a raised bed, or simply follow along for expert tips. Contact our support team any time you have a question at 708-655-5299 and support@deep-roots-project.org.

Learn. Share. Grow. Volunteer: We invite you to be a part of our sustainable movement right here in our own backyards! We want all our volunteers to have fun and learn while they contribute to expanding the Deep Roots community. We can customize a volunteer assignment to your time, interests and skills. Learn more on our Volunteer page

Dive Deeper

Click on the Blog Posts below for more about our Innovative methods.

Beautify Your Garden with Our Cedar Raised Beds!

 Our Deep Roots handcrafted cedar raised beds are designed to endure outdoors while adding a touch of style to your yard. As a bonus, they are the perfect depth to hold just the right amount of our nutrient-rich compost growing medium, which comes free with each bed.

Deep Roots Supports Gardeners

We provide our gardeners with the best products for success – like cedar raised beds, microbe-rich compost and microbe-rich worm castings.

Call our customer support team with any questions or help with calculations. Then place your order online. If you need help or have a question contact us at support[at]deep-roots-project.org and 708-655-5299.

See our online store for details about prices, ordering and delivery of raised beds, planter boxes, microbe-rich compost, worm castings, leaf mulch and more. We don’t sell traditional soil, since we use 100% compost as our growing medium. Our online store has 2 sections

Signup for Our Newsletter

Please leave your cell phone number when you sign up for our eNewsletter to get gardening and seasonal text messages announcements now and then.

Donations help us provide organic kitchen gardening education to individuals, organizations, and entire communities. Thank you in advance for contributing to our community and for sharing our website and blog with friends and family.

Planting a Fall Food Garden

Planting a Fall Food Garden

In zones 5b and 6a (including the Chicago area), our first frost is usually mid-October. Plant your seeds and seedlings in July and August. See the planting calendar below. Some fast growing, fast maturing, cold-hardy vegetable seedlings can be planted as late as mid September. They thrive in cooler days and can even sweeten after a light frost. Cover the bed with “floating row cove” (lightweight white fabric) for extra warmth.

Tips for Success

Buy seedlings locally - here are some local sources we recommend:

• Empowering Gardens in Forest Park
  Address: 7730-36 Madison St, Forest Park, IL 60130
  Phone: (708) 689-8332

• Good Earth Greenhouse
  Address: 7900 Madison St, River Forest, IL 60305
  Phone: (708) 366-9500

• Gethsemane Garden Center
  Address: 5739 N Clark St, Chicago, IL 60660
  Phone: (773) 878-5915

• We Grow Dreams
  Address: 1055 W Washington St, West Chicago, IL 60185
  Phone: (630) 293-0100

• Buying locally is important! Local seedlings will be acclimated to local conditions.

Floating row cover is lightweight white fabric that allows sunlight, water, and air through, and protects crops from frost and pests. A lightweight row cover might provide 2ºF of frost protection, whereas a heavy-weight row cover might provide as much as 6ºF to 10ºF of frost protection. Learn how to Install Hoops on Raised Beds. Remove it to allow pollination.

Harvest continuously—baby greens and radishes give quick results while slower crops catch up.

Fast growing fall crops from seedlings 

Leafy Greens (Very Reliable for Fall) - These can be planted to mid September .

• Spinach – plant seeds in mid-November for germination in spring. Your spinach will grow bigger and better if planted in the fall rather than spring. Note - always plant spinach from seed, using seedlings does not work for Spinach.

• Lettuce - Opt for loose-leaf varieties, which mature quickly and are more frost-tolerant than crisp-head types. Plant seedlings, harvest as baby leaves in 3–4 weeks.

• Arugula –plant seedlings, ready fast (3–4 weeks), perfect for cut-and-come-again harvest.

• Swiss Chard –plant seedlings, tolerates cool temps but may slow in late fall.

• Bok Choy and baby kale are short-season varieties that are easy to grow and produce baby greens in just a few weeks. 

• Brassicas (Hearty Cool-Weather Crops) - Best planted by late August in Zone 5b/6a. If planting in September, focus on faster maturing types (kohlrabi, broccoli raab). Brassicas are harder to grow recently because of an invasion of tiny fly called Swede Midge that attacks only brassica plants. Covering your brassicas with bug netting helps. Swede Midge Fly Management. Ask our customer support about buying or borrowing a large bug netting bag.

Roots (Quick Harvest Varieties Only) - Stick to radish and turnip seedlings for reliable results.

• Radishes – super fast, 25–35 days; can re-seed weekly until frost.

• Turnips – 40–60 days; tender greens + roots to enjoy before frost.

• Beets – possible if seeded in July or early August; seedlings planted later may still size up if fall is mild.

Alliums - for germination in spring

• Garlic – planted in late September through October; harvested next summer.

• Onions/Shallots – some can be fall-planted to overwinter.

Fall Planting Calendar – Zones 5b & 6a

Here’s a clear planting chart for a fall garden in Zones 5b & 6a (Chicago area). It starts in mid-summer (July) and runs through early fall (October), showing both direct seeding and transplanting seedlings.

Notes for Success

• Mid-July to Early August → Plant longer-season brassicas (broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower) as seedlings.

• Late July to Mid-August → Sow roots (carrots, beets, turnips) and leafy greens that take 45–60 days.

• Late August to Early September → Focus on fast crops (radish, arugula, spinach, lettuce).

• September–October → Plant garlic, shallots, overwintering onions for next summer’s harvest.

• Frost protection → Use row covers to extend harvest of spinach, lettuce, and kale well into November.

Join the Deep Roots movement

We’re not just about gardening; we’re about changing the way people grow food. Whether you have a tiny balcony or a full backyard, we’ll help you grow like a pro.

Stay in the loop: Signup for our email newsletter. If you also provide your phone number you will get text message updates that link to our best blog posts.

Get involved: Attend a free workshop, become a volunteer, grab a raised bed, or simply follow along for expert tips. Contact our support team any time you have a question at 708-655-5299 and support@deep-roots-project.org.

Learn. Share. Grow. Volunteer: We invite you to be a part of our sustainable movement right here in our own backyards! We want all our volunteers to have fun and learn while they contribute to expanding the Deep Roots community. We can customize a volunteer assignment to your time, interests and skills. Learn more on our Volunteer page

Dive Deeper

Click on the Blog Posts below for more about our Innovative methods.

Beautify Your Garden with Our Cedar Raised Beds!

 Our Deep Roots handcrafted cedar raised beds are designed to endure outdoors while adding a touch of style to your yard. As a bonus, they are the perfect depth to hold just the right amount of our nutrient-rich compost growing medium, which comes free with each bed.

Deep Roots Supports Gardeners

We provide our gardeners with the best products for success – like cedar raised beds, microbe-rich compost and microbe-rich worm castings.

Call our customer support team with any questions or help with calculations. Then place your order online. If you need help or have a question contact us at support[at]deep-roots-project.org and 708-655-5299.

See our online store for details about prices, ordering and delivery of raised beds, planter boxes, microbe-rich compost, worm castings, leaf mulch and more. We don’t sell traditional soil, since we use 100% compost as our growing medium. Our online store has 2 sections

Signup for Our Newsletter

Please leave your cell phone number when you sign up for our eNewsletter to get gardening and seasonal text messages announcements now and then.

Donations help us provide organic kitchen gardening education to individuals, organizations, and entire communities. Thank you in advance for contributing to our community and for sharing our website and blog with friends and family.

How to Start Seeds Indoors

Starting seeds indoors is a fun and rewarding activity for gardeners of all levels. With a little bit of planning and care, you can grow healthy, strong seedlings that will thrive in your garden. It’s a great way to get a jumpstart on your garden and extend your growing season. It's also a fun and rewarding activity for gardeners of all levels.

Grow Strong, Healthy Seedlings

Starting seeds indoors is one of the most satisfying ways to get a head start on your garden—and it’s easier than you might think. This post will walk you through every step: from selecting seeds to preparing soil, to caring for your seedlings—and finishing with “hardening them off” before planting outdoors. Deep Roots uses a 1:! mix of our microbe-rich compost and worm castings as our potting soil, not shown in this video.

Why Start Seeds Indoors?

Whether you're growing tomatoes, peppers, herbs, or flowers, starting your own “transplants” (another word for seedlings) can save you money, expand your variety choices, and give your garden a healthy early boost.

By starting seeds indoors in early spring, you can give summer crops like tomatoes and peppers the head start they need to be productive all season long. It’s a great way to extend your growing season and get hands-on with your garden early in the year.

Follow These Simple Steps

Step 1: Choose the Right Seeds

Not every plant needs to be started indoors. Focus on varieties that need a longer growing season and benefit from transplanting, such as tomatoes, peppers, many herbs, and flowers. Choose seeds that are fresh, high quality, and well-suited to your growing conditions. You can buy them from local nurseries, trusted online seed retailers, or even seed swaps with other gardeners.

Step 2: Gather Your Supplies

To get started, you’ll need a few essentials. These include containers to plant in, such as seed trays or small pots with drainage holes. For an eco-friendly option, consider biodegradable pots made from materials like peat, coir, or paper—these can be planted directly into the garden without disturbing the roots. Your potting mix should be rich and alive; we recommend a blend of half microbe-rich compost and half worm castings. You’ll also need a light source—grow lights work best, since windows typically don’t provide enough consistent sunlight indoors. Keep a spray bottle or watering can nearby to keep the soil moist.

Step 3: Plant Your Seeds

Fill your containers with the compost and worm casting mixture, leaving about a quarter inch of space at the top. Gently press down the soil to remove any air pockets. Follow the seed packet instructions, but a general rule is to plant seeds about a quarter inch deep and place two to three seeds per cell or pot. Cover the seeds lightly with more soil and water gently. Be sure to label your trays so you know which plants are which.

Step 4: Provide Proper Light

Most seedlings require 12 to 14 hours of light per day to grow properly. A grow light is your best bet to provide this kind of steady illumination. While it might seem convenient to use a sunny window, it usually doesn’t provide strong or consistent enough light to keep your seedlings healthy. Without enough light, seedlings may become weak and leggy.

Step 5: Care for Your Seedlings

Once your seeds have germinated and begun to grow, keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy. As they get taller, thin them out by snipping the weaker seedlings and leaving the strongest one in each pot. Eventually, your seedlings will outgrow their starter pots. At that point, transplant them into slightly larger containers filled with fresh compost and worm castings. This gives their roots more space to grow and prepares them for life in the garden.

Step 6: Harden Off Your Seedlings

Before you plant your seedlings outdoors, you’ll need to harden them off. This means gradually getting them used to outdoor conditions like wind, sun, and changing temperatures. Start this process about ten to fourteen days before you plan to transplant them into your garden.

On the first day, place the seedlings outside in a shaded, sheltered spot for one to two hours, then bring them back inside. Each day, increase their time outdoors and gradually expose them to more sunlight. Always bring them indoors at night unless the temperatures are very mild. This slow transition toughens up your seedlings and helps prevent transplant shock, giving them the best chance to thrive when they go into the ground.

Step 7: When Are Seedlings Ready to Go Outside?

Before moving your seedlings to your outdoor garden beds, it’s important to make sure they’re mature and sturdy enough to handle the transition. A good rule of thumb is to wait until your seedlings have at least two to three sets of “true leaves”—the ones that grow after the first small seed leaves (called cotyledons). At this point, the plant is photosynthesizing and growing on its own.

Your seedlings should be about 3 to 6 inches tall, with strong, thick stems. If they are tall and wobbly, they may need more time under the grow lights or better airflow to strengthen their stems. The roots should be well-developed and hold the soil together when gently removed from the container. If the roots are still fragile or fall apart easily, give your seedlings more time indoors. However, if the roots are circling the pot tightly (called rootbound), it’s time to transplant.

Step 8: Planting Dates

Depending on where you live, the growing season can be limited, and it can be challenging to extend it. Know which crops are cold tolerant and which need warmth to thrive. Know how to protect your seeds and seedlings from unexpected temperatures. Learn more details about planting dates in the Chicago area in our blog post on planting calendar for Zones 5b & 6a.

The average last frost dates for Chicago and its surrounding suburbs, including Oak Park and River Forest, in 2025 are typically April 21 to 30. However, it's important to note that this is just an average, and there's always a chance of frost occurring before or after these dates. 

Gardeners not in the Chicago area can ask their local university ag extension or a botanic garden for a planting calendar and average frost dates for their climate zone.

Final Thoughts

Starting seeds indoors is a simple and deeply rewarding practice that lets you take control of your growing season. It’s a fun way to engage with your garden long before outdoor planting begins. With a little planning, care, and patience, you’ll grow strong, healthy transplants that are ready to flourish the moment they hit the soil.

You can also use Winter Sowing techniques to start some seeds outdoors - see the blog linked below.

Join the Deep Roots movement

We’re not just about gardening; we’re about changing the way people grow food. Whether you have a tiny balcony or a full backyard, we’ll help you grow like a pro.

Stay in the loop: Signup for our email newsletter. If you also provide your phone number you will get text message updates that link to our best blog posts.

Get involved: Attend a free workshop, become a volunteer, grab a raised bed, or simply follow along for expert tips. Contact our support team any time you have a question at 708-655-5299 and support@deep-roots-project.org.

Learn. Share. Grow. Volunteer: We invite you to be a part of our sustainable movement right here in our own backyards! We want all our volunteers to have fun and learn while they contribute to expanding the Deep Roots community. We can customize a volunteer assignment to your time, interests and skills. Learn more on our Volunteer page

Dive Deeper

Click on the Blog Posts Below for more about our Innovative methods.

Beautify Your Garden with Our Cedar Raised Beds!

 Our Deep Roots handcrafted cedar raised beds are designed to endure outdoors while adding a touch of style to your yard. As a bonus, they are the perfect depth to hold just the right amount of our nutrient-rich compost growing medium, which comes free with each bed.

Deep Roots Supports Gardeners

We provide our gardeners with the best products for success – like cedar raised beds, microbe-rich compost and microbe-rich worm castings. Check our online store. Always talk to our customer support team before placing your order online. If you need help or have a question contact us at support[at]deep-roots-project.org and 708-655-5299.

Deep Roots Online Store

See our online store for details about prices, ordering and delivery of raised beds, planter boxes, microbe-rich compost, worm castings, leaf mulch and more. We don’t sell traditional soil, since we use 100% compost as our growing medium. Our online store has 2 sections – (1) raised beds and planter boxes and (2) compost, worm castings, fertilizer.

Please contact our customer support team before placing an order online so we can assist you with the details and answer your gardening questions. You can pay by credit card in the store or by check.

Signup for Our Newsletter

Please leave your cell phone number when you sign up for our eNewsletter, if you want text message announcements now and then.

Donations help us provide organic kitchen gardening education to individuals, organizations, and entire communities. Thank you in advance for contributing to our community and for sharing our website and blog with friends and family.

Grow Miscanthus Grass for Straw Mulch

This is one of those plants that earns its keep in more ways than one—ornamental beauty in the garden all season long, then natural, homemade mulch to feed next year’s crops. Pretty clever, right?

This Prairie Grass is Beautiful & Easy

If you’ve ever wished you could make your own mulch instead of buying bales of straw every year, I’ve got a garden tip you’ll love: grow Miscanthus grass. It’s beautiful, easy to care for, and—best of all—you can cut and use the dried stems as mulch right from your own yard.

Miscanthus, often called maiden grass, is a tall, graceful ornamental grass with soft, arching leaves and fluffy flower heads that show up in late summer. Even when it’s not blooming, the plant looks elegant. Once it dries out in the winter, you can cut it back and use the stalks just like straw to protect and nourish your soil.

Planting and Maintenance

This grass grows best in full sun and well-drained soil, and it likes a little compost added to the planting hole to help it get started. The best time to plant it is in spring, after the last frost. You’ll want to give it some room to grow—most varieties get tall and wide—but there are also smaller options like 'Adagio' if space is limited. If you live in a warmer climate, make sure to choose a sterile variety so it doesn’t spread where it’s not wanted.

When you first plant Miscanthus, keep the soil moist until the roots settle in. After that, it becomes quite drought tolerant and low-maintenance. Don’t worry about fertilizing it the first year, and keep any feedings light in later years so the plant doesn’t grow too floppy. The dried leaves and stems also provide winter interest, so it’s nice to leave them up until early spring.

Harvest Straw in Early Spring

When you see signs of new growth, that’s your cue to cut it down to just a few inches tall. That’s also when you’ll collect your straw mulch. Just gather the dried stalks and store some in a dry place. There are two ways to use the straw. Lay them across your garden beds or cut up the straw before placing it around your seedlings. Straw helps keep the soil moist, block weeds. Don’t let the straw decompose and mix with soil in your  edible plant beds. Push the straw to the sides of the beds after harvesting your crops.

If your Miscanthus gets too big over time or starts to die out in the center, you can dig it up and divide it to refresh the plant and maybe even give a few chunks away to friends.

Tips for Getting Started

For beginner gardeners, it's best to start with low-maintenance, non-invasive varieties of miscanthus that are reliable, manageable in size, and easy to care for.  it’s also a good idea to check with your local extension office or nursery to make sure the variety you choose isn’t considered invasive in your area. Look for sterile cultivars, especially if you live in a warmer climate

Here are a few beginner-friendly options to consider:

Miscanthus ‘Adagio’: Height is 3 to 4 feet. Compact, tidy, and beautiful. Perfect for small gardens or raised beds. It still offers that soft, graceful miscanthus look, but won’t overwhelm your space. Drought tolerant once established and produces lovely silver plumes in fall.

Miscanthus ‘Gracillimus’: Height is 4 to 6 feet. One of the most popular varieties for a reason—it’s adaptable, elegant, and reliable in many climates. Narrow leaves with a silver stripe down the center and airy flower plumes.

Miscanthus ‘Morning Light’: Height is around 4 feet. A bit finer-textured and slightly more refined than ‘Gracillimus.’ Great for adding a silvery glow to your garden. The reddish-pink flowers turn a soft tan as they mature.

Miscanthus X Giganteus (for large spaces only): Height is up to 12 feet in one season. This giant variety produces a ton of biomass, so it’s ideal if your main goal is making mulch. It's sterile, so it won’t spread or reseed. This one’s better suited for bigger gardens or as a screen.

Join the Deep Roots movement

We’re not just about gardening; we’re about changing the way people grow food. Whether you have a tiny balcony or a full backyard, we’ll help you grow like a pro.

Stay in the loop: Signup for our email newsletter. If you also provide your phone number you will get text message updates that link to our best blog posts.

Get involved: Attend a free workshop, become a volunteer, grab a raised bed, or simply follow along for expert tips. Contact our support team any time you have a question at 708-655-5299 and support@deep-roots-project.org.

Learn. Share. Grow. Volunteer: We invite you to be a part of our sustainable movement right here in our own backyards! We want all our volunteers to have fun and learn while they contribute to expanding the Deep Roots community. We can customize a volunteer assignment to your time, interests and skills. Learn more on our Volunteer page

Dive Deeper

Click on the Blog Posts Below for more about our Innovative methods.

Beautify Your Garden with Our Cedar Raised Beds!

 Our Deep Roots handcrafted cedar raised beds are designed to endure outdoors while adding a touch of style to your yard. As a bonus, they are the perfect depth to hold just the right amount of our nutrient-rich compost growing medium, which comes free with each bed.

Deep Roots Supports Gardeners

We provide our gardeners with the best products for success – like cedar raised beds, microbe-rich compost and microbe-rich worm castings. Check our online store. Always talk to our customer support team before placing your order online. If you need help or have a question contact us at support[at]deep-roots-project.org and 708-655-5299.

Deep Roots Online Store

See our online store for details about prices, ordering and delivery of raised beds, planter boxes, microbe-rich compost, worm castings, leaf mulch and more. We don’t sell traditional soil, since we use 100% compost as our growing medium. Our online store has 2 sections – (1) raised beds and planter boxes and (2) compost, worm castings, fertilizer.

Please contact our customer support team before placing an order online so we can assist you with the details and answer your gardening questions. You can pay by credit card in the store or by check.

Signup for Our Newsletter

Please leave your cell phone number when you sign up for our eNewsletter, if you want text message announcements now and then.

Donations help us provide organic kitchen gardening education to individuals, organizations, and entire communities. Thank you in advance for contributing to our community and for sharing our website and blog with friends and family.

Spring Planting Step-by-Step

Welcome to your ultimate Spring gardening guide! In this step-by-step roadmap, you'll discover all the essential tasks needed to kickstart your garden for the season. Along the way, you’ll find links to additional blog posts that invite you to explore each topic in greater depth, ensuring you have all the knowledge and inspiration you need to cultivate your green oasis.

Here are the Basics

•   Start planting in March: In Zone 5 and 6, March is an excellent time to plant cold-hardy vegetables that can tolerate the cool temperatures of early spring. View our blog post on Climate Zones.

•   Spread compost in spring and fall: Spread 2-inch layer of our microbe rich compost on your existing beds to replenish microbes and nutrients.

•   Plant with worm castings: Use our top quality worm castings fertilizer, also called ”vermicompost” to plant seeds and seedlings.

•   Planting seeds and seedlings: View our blog posts on:

Planting for Beginners
Next Level Planting
Seed Starting Indoors
Winter Sowing outdoors.

Maximizing Your Results

•   Biodiversity planting: Cultivating a variety of different plant species within a given area, aiming to create a diverse ecosystem that supports a wider range of wildlife, including pollinators, insects, and birds, by providing food and shelter throughout the growing season. View our blog post on Biodiversity

•   No need to rotate crops when you practice biodiversity. Rotation is for monoculture planting (same crops in one field or one bed).

•   Succession Planting: Sow fast-growing crops every 2-3 weeks for a continuous harvest. View our blog post on Succession Planting.

•   Maximize space: Use trellises for peas, companion plant smaller crops between slow-growing ones. View our blog post on Trellises

•   Mulch early: Use straw or compost to retain moisture and suppress weeds after seedlings are 3 inches tall. If you use both, put the straw on top.Try not to mix straw with soil/compost since it dilutes the compost nutrients. Don’t use hay or anything that contains weed seeds. View our blog post on Moisture and Mulch.

Managing Pests

•   Pest alert Swede Midge: Protect from Swede Midge fly which attacks only Brassica crops like broccoli, collards, cabbage, kale, Brussel sprouts. We got decent harvests from kale and collards last year by protecting our beds with bug netting, and harvesting all big leaves quickly. Wash the leaves well. Swede Midge is a recent invasive pest in the Northeast and Midwest.View blog post on Swede Midge fly.

•   Pest alert Club Root disease: We stopped growing broccoli altogether because protection from Club Root disease needs a large garden and takes to much time and planning. Watch this video on club root disease.

•   Install Hoops and Netting to stop pests. See Installing Hoops on Raised Beds.

Cold Tolerant Veggies

All of these can be direct-seeded outdoors as soon as the soil is workable and above freezing. If you want a head start, you can start some of these indoors and transplant them in mid to late March.

Leafy Greens:

•   Lettuce (Romaine, Butterhead, Leaf varieties)
•   Spinach (doesn’t transplant well, direct seed in November)
•   Swiss Chard
•   Arugula
•   Endive
•   Radicchio

Root Vegetables:

•   Carrots
•   Beets
•   Parsnips
•   Radishes
•   Turnips (not Brassica but closely related)
•   Salsify

Alliums (Onion Family):

•   Onions (sets or seeds)
•   Shallots
•   Garlic (if not already planted in fall)
•   Leeks (start indoors or plant young starts)

Legumes:

•   Peas (snap peas, shelling peas, snow peas, all need a trellis)
•   Fava Beans (needs a trellis)

Herbs:

•   Cilantro
•   Parsley
•   Chervil

Growing in Partial Sunlight

If you have less than 8 hours of full sun, you can still grow a variety of spring vegetables, including leafy greens like lettuce, kale, spinach, and chard, as well as root vegetables like carrots, radishes, and beets. Here's a list of vegetables that can tolerate less than 8 hours of full sun:

Leafy Greens:

•   Lettuce: Most lettuce varieties thrive in partial shade.
•   Kale: Kale can tolerate partial shade and will still produce edible leaves, though they may not be as stocky as those grown in full sun.
•   Spinach: Spinach is another excellent choice for partial shade.
•   Chard (Swiss Chard): Swiss chard is a great option for partial shade, and its leaves can bolt and become bitter if exposed to too much sun.
•   Arugula: Arugula also does well in partial shade.
•   Mustard Greens: These greens are also shade-tolerant.
•   Collard Greens: Collard greens can also thrive in partial shade. 

Root Vegetables:

•   Carrots: Carrots can tolerate partial shade, though they may take longer to mature.
•   Radishes: Radishes are relatively shade-tolerant.
•   Beets: Beets also prefer full sun, but can tolerate partial shade.
•   Turnips: Turnips can tolerate partial shade.
•   Rutabaga: Rutabaga is another root vegetable that can tolerate partial shade. 

Planting Tips for Early Spring Veggies

Since March in Zone 6 can still have frost, it's best to focus on cold-hardy vegetables that tolerate chilly soil. Here are some tips for direct seeding and transplanting:

1. Soil preparation

•   Fill new raised beds or in-ground beds with our microbe-rich compost
•   Cover the existing beds with 2 inches of our microbe-rich compost.
•   Make sure the soil is workable (not too wet or frozen). If it crumbles in your hand and isn’t sticky, it’s good to go.
•   Use “row cover” light-weight white fabric to warm up the soil faster and provide a slight frost buffer.

2. Direct-seeding cold-hardy vegetables (best for March)

These seeds can go directly in the ground when soil reaches 35–40°F:

•   Peas (Trellis them to save space)
•   Spinach (best to direct seed in November, can also sow every 2 weeks in spring for continued harvest)
•   Carrots (Thin seedlings to avoid crowding)
•   Beets (Soak seeds overnight for better germination)
•   Radishes (Quick-growing; ready in 25-30 days)
•   Parsnips (Long germination time; sow with radishes as a marker)
•   Salsify (A lesser-known root vegetable; plant deep)

3. Transplanting young plants

Certain cold-hardy plants do better when started indoors and transplanted out in early spring. A quick alternative is to buy seedlings. “Winter sowing” using clear plastic milk jugs is also an option:

•   Lettuce (Start indoors 3-4 weeks before planting out)
•   Swiss Chard (Tolerates cold but grows faster from transplants)
•   Leeks (Need a long season, so start early indoors)
•   Onions (Plant sets or seedlings rather than seeds for an earlier harvest)

Succession Planting for a Continuous Harvest

Instead of planting everything at once, stagger your plantings for a continuous supply of fresh vegetables.

1. Quick-growing crops for succession planting

•   Radishes – Every 10-14 days (harvests in 25-30 days)
•   Spinach – Every 2 weeks (harvest young leaves continuously)
•   Lettuce – Every 2-3 weeks (mix different varieties for variety)
•   Cilantro & Parsley – Every 3 weeks (bolt-resistant varieties last longer)

2. Slow-growing crops that can be inter-cropped

•   Carrots & Radishes – Plant together; radishes sprout first and loosen the soil for carrots.
•   Beets & Lettuce – Beets take longer; lettuce matures quickly between rows.
•   Peas & Spinach – Spinach can grow underneath peas before they take off.

3. Relay planting strategy

Once an early crop is harvested, immediately replant with something that can take its place:

•   March: Radishes → Follow with carrots or bush beans (after frost risk)
•   March: Peas → Follow with cucumbers or summer squash
•   March-April: Spinach → Follow with basil or peppers in late spring
•   March-April: Lettuce: Follow with warm-season greens (Malabar spinach

Early spring planting calendar (March-May)

This early spring calendar for Zone 6 outlines when to direct sow (DS), transplant (TP), or start seeds indoors (IN) for your early spring vegetables. Check the calendar for when to transplant purchased seedlings. Start Indoors (IN) for “Succession Crops” – more lettuce, radishes, cilantro, spinach for future plantings.

March Planting

March soil is workable, but it’s still cold, and there is some frost risk.

Direct seed (DS) outdoors:

•   Peas (Sugar snap, shelling, snow) – Use trellises for vertical growth.
•   Spinach – Best germination at 35–45°F soil temp.
•   Carrots – Cover with burlap to maintain moisture.
•   Beets – Soak seeds overnight for faster sprouting.
•   Radishes – Successive plantings every 10-14 days.
•   Parsnips – Takes 14–21 days to germinate, plant in loose soil.
•   Salsify – Long season crop, plant deep.

Transplant (TP) outdoors.

(“Harden off” first. Gradually expose young plants grown indoors to outdoor conditions like sunlight, wind, and temperature fluctuations.

•   Lettuce – Choose cold-hardy varieties like 'Winter Density.'
•   Swiss Chard – Can tolerate frost but grows faster if started indoors.
•   Leeks – Space 6 inches apart for full-size bulbs.

Start indoors (IN) for later transplanting:

•   Celery – Needs 10-12 weeks indoors before transplant.
•   Parsley & Cilantro – Start now and succession plant every 3 weeks.

April Planting

It’s still cool but warming with moderate frost risk.

Direct seed (DS) outdoors:

•   More lettuce, spinach, radishes, carrots, beets – Continue succession planting.
•   Green onions (scallions) – Can be grown densely.
•   Fava Beans – Tolerate cool weather well.

Transplant (TP) outdoors:

•   Swiss Chard – If not already planted in March.
•   Leeks, onions, and celery – After hardening off.

Start indoors (IN) for warm season crops:

•   Malabar Spinach (heat-loving alternative to spinach)
•   Basil, Dill, and other tender herbs – Start for later transplant.

May Planting

Frost risk decreasing, more growth

Direct seed (DS) outdoors:

•   Bush Beans – Only if soil reaches 55°F+ consistently.
•   New rounds of radishes, lettuce, spinach, carrots, beets.
•   Sweet Corn – Wait until soil is 60°F+ for best germination.

Transplant (TP) outdoors:

•   Basil, Malabar Spinach, Summer Herbs – Once nighttime temps stay above 50°F.
•   Celery & Parsley – Need regular watering.

Companion planting guide

Companion planting boosts plant health, repels pests, and enhances yields. Sow fast-growing crops every 2-3 weeks for a continuous harvest. Maximize space – use trellises for peas, companion plant smaller crops between slow-growing ones. Here’s how to pair your early spring crops:

Good companion pairings

•   Carrots + Onions/Leeks – Onions repel carrot rust flies.
•   Peas + Spinach – Peas provide shade for spinach in warming months.
•   Beets + Lettuce – Lettuce fills gaps between slow-growing beets.
•   Radishes + Carrots – Radishes loosen soil for slow-sprouting carrots.
•   Lettuce + Cilantro – Cilantro helps deter aphids.
•   Parsley + Carrots – Encourages beneficial insects like hoverflies.
•    Peas + Mint – Mint deters aphids (but plant mint in containers!).

Avoid these pairings

•   Carrots + Dill – Dill can stunt carrot growth.
•   Peas + Onions – Onions inhibit pea growth.
•   Beets + Pole Beans – Compete for nutrients.
•   Fennel + Any Veggies – Fennel secretes chemicals that stop growth.

 Join the Deep Roots movement

We’re not just about gardening; we’re about changing the way people grow food. Whether you have a tiny balcony or a full backyard, we’ll help you grow like a pro.

Stay in the loop: Signup for our email newsletter. If you also provide your phone number you will get text message updates that link to our best blog posts.

Get involved: Attend a free workshop, become a volunteer, grab a raised bed, or simply follow along for expert tips. Contact our support team any time you have a question at 708-655-5299 and support@deep-roots-project.org.

Learn. Share. Grow. Volunteer: We invite you to be a part of our sustainable movement right here in our own backyards! We want all our volunteers to have fun and learn while they contribute to expanding the Deep Roots community. We can customize a volunteer assignment to your time, interests and skills. Learn more on our Volunteer page

Let’s make this your most delicious year yet!

Dive Deeper

Click on the Blog Posts Below for more about our Innovative methods.

Beautify your yard with elegant cedar raised beds!

 Our Deep Roots handcrafted cedar raised beds are designed to endure outdoors while adding a touch of style to your yard. As a bonus, they are the perfect depth to hold just the right amount of our nutrient-rich compost growing medium, which comes free with each bed.

Deep Roots Supports Gardeners

We provide our gardeners with the best products for success – like cedar raised beds, microbe-rich compost and microbe-rich worm castings. Check our online store. Always talk to our customer support team before placing your order online. If you need help or have a question contact us at support[at]deep-roots-project.org and 708-655-5299.

Deep Roots Online Store

See our online store for details about prices, ordering and delivery of raised beds, planter boxes, microbe-rich compost, worm castings, leaf mulch and more. We don’t sell traditional soil, since we use 100% compost as our growing medium. Our online store has 2 sections – (1) raised beds and planter boxes and (2) compost, worm castings, fertilizer.

Please contact our customer support team before placing an order online so we can assist you with the details and answer your gardening questions. You can pay by credit card in the store or by check.

Signup for Our Newsletter

Please leave your cell phone number when you sign up for our eNewsletter, if you want text message announcements now and then.

Donations help us provide organic kitchen gardening education to individuals, organizations, and entire communities. Thank you in advance for contributing to our community and for sharing our website and blog with friends and family.

Winter Sowing Using Milk Jugs

If you love gardening but hate waiting until spring to start growing, winter seed sowing is for you! This easy and low-cost method allows gardeners in Zones 5 and 6 to start hardy seedlings outdoors during winter using recycled milk jugs. When done correctly, this technique creates a mini-greenhouse effect that protects seeds and helps them sprout at the perfect time. Here’s how to do it!

Why Sow Seeds in Winter?

•   Mimics Nature – Many seeds require a period of cold stratification to germinate. Winter sowing provides this naturally.
•   Stronger Plants – Because the seedlings emerge outdoors in their natural environment, they are hardier and less prone to transplant shock.
•   Saves Space Indoors – No need to clutter your house with seed trays and grow lights!
•   Water Efficient – The enclosed jugs hold moisture, reducing the need for frequent watering.

What You’ll Need

•   Clean, empty milk jugs (or similar clear plastic containers)
•   Bleach to sterilize the jugs
•   Utility knife or scissors
•   Duct tape
•   Permanent marker
•   As potting soil use Deep Roots microbe-rich compost and worm castings mixed 1:1 ratio
•   Seeds suitable for winter sowing
•   Water

Step-by-Step Guide

1. Sterilize the jugs: Fill a large container or your bathtub with water and 10% bleach. Soak the jugs for about 20 minutes. Then soak in clean water for 20 minutes to remove the bleach.
2. Prepare the Jugs: Cut the milk jug almost in half, leaving a small hinge near the handle. Poke drainage holes in the bottom.
3. Fill with Soil: Add 3-4 inches of moist potting soil or seed-starting mix.
4. Plant the Seeds: Sow seeds according to the recommended depth on the seed packet.
5. Close & Label: Tape the jug shut and label it with the seed type and date.
6. Set Outside: Place the jugs in a sunny, sheltered location. Snow and rain will help keep them hydrated.
7. Monitor & Ventilate: As temperatures warm in early spring, check for condensation inside the jugs. If it gets too hot, open the top during the day.
8. Transplant When Ready: Once seedlings have several sets of true leaves and the risk of frost has passed, transplant them into your garden beds.

Best Seeds for Winter Sowing

Many cold-hardy flowers and vegetables thrive with this method, including:

•  Flowers: Milkweed, poppies, echinacea, black-eyed Susan, columbine
•  Vegetables: Kale, lettuce, spinach, broccoli, onions, parsley
•  Herbs: Thyme, sage, chives, oregano

Tips for Success

• Use translucent containers—clear plastic may allow too much light and heat.
• Don’t overwater before sealing the jugs—moist but not soggy is ideal.
• Keep jugs in full sun to ensure proper warmth as temperatures fluctuate.
• Be patient! Some seeds take longer to sprout than others, especially native plants.

Why This Works So Well in Zones 5 & 6

These zones experience cold winters but still have enough late-winter sun to warm up the mini-greenhouses. Seeds naturally break dormancy when conditions are right, leading to healthier plants that are better adapted to outdoor conditions.

Winter sowing using milk jugs is a great way to get a head start on your garden while making the most of the cold months. Give it a try, and come spring, you’ll have strong, thriving seedlings ready to transplant!

Best Seeds for Winter Sowing in Milk Jugs

Winter sowing is ideal for cold-hardy plants and those that require cold stratification. While summer vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and squash can be winter-sown, they are not the best candidates because they prefer warm soil and sprout best indoors under controlled temperatures. However, you can still give them a try using this method if you plant them later in winter.

Best Seeds to Winter Sow by Category

Cold-Hardy Vegetables & Herbs

Great for Winter Sowing - these plants can be started 10-12 weeks before the last frost

•   Kale (10-12 weeks before last frost)
•   Spinach (10-12 weeks before last frost)
•   Lettuce (8-10 weeks before last frost)
•   Swiss Chard (8-10 weeks before last frost)
•   Broccoli (8-10 weeks before last frost)
•   Cauliflower (8-10 weeks before last frost)
•   Brussels Sprouts (10-12 weeks before last frost)
•   Cabbage (8-10 weeks before last frost)
•   Collard Greens (10-12 weeks before last frost)
•   Onions & Leeks (10-12 weeks before last frost)
•   Carrots (8-10 weeks before last frost)
•   Beets (8-10 weeks before last frost)
•   Radishes (8-10 weeks before last frost)
•   Turnips (8-10 weeks before last frost)
•   Parsley (10-12 weeks before last frost)
•   Chives (10-12 weeks before last frost)

Perennial & Hardy Annual Flowers

Excellent for Winter Sowing - many flowers need cold stratification, making them perfect for winter sowing.

•   Milkweed (12+ weeks before last frost)
•   Echinacea (Coneflower) (10-12 weeks before last frost)
•   Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia) (10-12 weeks before last frost)
•   Poppies (10-12 weeks before last frost)
•   Lupine (10-12 weeks before last frost)
•   Columbine (10-12 weeks before last frost)
•   Snapdragons (8-10 weeks before last frost)
•   Delphinium (10-12 weeks before last frost)
•   Foxglove (10-12 weeks before last frost)
•   Hollyhocks (10-12 weeks before last frost)
•   Bachelor’s Button (8-10 weeks before last frost)

Summer Vegetables

Summer vegetables are NOT the best candidates for winter sowing because they need warm soil to germinate. If planted too early, they may rot instead of sprouting. You can winter sow them later in the season - but you must wait until late winter/early spring (6-8 weeks before last frost) to avoid premature sprouting in cold weather.

• Tomatoes (6-8 weeks before last frost)
• Peppers (6-8 weeks before last frost)
• Eggplants (6-8 weeks before last frost)
• Basil (6-8 weeks before last frost)
• Cilantro (6-8 weeks before last frost)
• Cucumbers (4-6 weeks before last frost)
• Squash (Zucchini, Pumpkin, Winter Squash) (4-6 weeks before last frost)
• Melons (4-6 weeks before last frost)

Other Resources

Winter Sowing - Friends of the Oak Park Conservatory

Seed Starting for Beginners - Friends of the Oak Park Conservatory

Happy Gardening!

By following the Deep Roots Project’s transformational gardening methods through the seasons, you will create a thriving, nutrient-rich garden that supports both your plants and the soil. See the full list of our Grow Your Own Food blog posts. Each post is assigned ”tags” which are under the post title.

Deep Roots Supports Gardeners

We provide our gardeners with the best products for success – like cedar raised beds, microbe-rich compost and microbe-rich worm castings. Check our online store. Always talk to our customer support team before placing your order online. If you need help or have a question contact us at support[at]deep-roots-project.org and 708-655-5299.

Deep Roots Online Store

See our online store for details about prices, ordering and delivery of raised beds, planter boxes, microbe-rich compost, worm castings, leaf mulch and more. We don’t sell traditional soil, since we use 100% compost as our growing medium. Our online store has 2 sections – (1) raised beds and planter boxes and (2) compost, worm castings, fertilizer.

Please contact our customer support team before placing an order online so we can assist you with the details and answer your gardening questions. You can pay by credit card in the store or by check.

Please leave your cell phone number when you sign up for our eNewsletter, if you want text message announcements now and then.

Donations help us provide organic kitchen gardening education to individuals, organizations, and entire communities. Thank you in advance for contributing to our community and for sharing our website and blog with friends and family.

Growing Ornamental Plants with Deep Roots High-Nutrient Compost

Deep Roots Project microbe-rich and nutrient-rich compost is the foundation of our transformational gardening method. But, when it comes to ornamentals, some ornamentals do not like our compost. Read this blog post for details.

Some ornamentals don’t like rich compost

At Deep Roots Project, our mission is to empower gardeners to grow vibrant, healthy edible plants using 100% microbe-rich and nutrient-rich compost. While many know us for supporting food gardening, our compost is equally transformative for many ornamental gardens. Whether you’re cultivating colorful flowers, native plants, or decorative plants and shrubs, incorporating our premium compost can help you achieve lush, thriving landscapes.

Use compost for food & most ornamentals

Ornamental plants, like edibles, depend on healthy soil to flourish. Our compost:
•   Improves soil structure, making it easier for roots to penetrate and access nutrients.
•   Boosts water retention, reducing the need for frequent watering.
•   Increases disease resistance, thanks to beneficial microbes that suppress pathogens.
•   Provides a slow, steady release of essential nutrients, creating ideal conditions for blooms and foliage.

Ornamentals that thrive with our compost

•   Perennials: Coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, daylilies, hostas.
•   Annuals: Petunias, marigolds, impatiens, zinnias.
•   Bulbs: Tulips, daffodils, hyacinths.
•   Native Plants: Butterfly weed, prairie dropseed, purple prairie clover.
•   Shrubs: Hydrangeas, lilacs, viburnums.
•   Flowering Vines: Clematis, honeysuckle.
•   Ground Covers: Creeping thyme, ajuga, vinca.

Some need low fertility compost

Some ornamental plants prefer low-fertility soil conditions to mimic their native habitats. A more detailed list of low-fertility soil ornamentals is below.

Use compost sparingly or avoid it altogether for these plants:
•   Herbs from Arid Climates: Lavender, rosemary, thyme.
•   Succulents: Sedum, echeveria, jade plant.
•   Carnivorous Plants: Venus flytraps, pitcher plants (which thrive in nutrient-poor, acidic soils).
•   Wildflowers for Lean Soils: Poppies, some varieties of cosmos.

How to use our compost on ornamentals

For best results:
•   Top-dress beds with a 1-2 inch layer of compost in spring and fall.
•   Mix into planting holes when setting new plants to encourage strong root establishment.
•   Apply as mulch around shrubs and perennials to suppress weeds and retain moisture.

A Garden That Gives Back

By using our compost on your ornamental plants, you’re not just enhancing your garden’s beauty. You’re also fostering a healthier ecosystem, improving soil health, and supporting pollinators like bees and butterflies.

Whether you’re growing roses or prairie natives, Deep Roots Project compost provides the foundation for a garden that flourishes. Visit our website or contact us to learn more about how our compost can bring life to your ornamental garden!

Gardening Tip: If you’re unsure whether a plant will thrive with nutrient-rich compost, start by applying it to a small area and observe how your plant responds. Happy gardening!

Plants that prefer low-fertility soils - expanded list

Certain plants thrive in nutrient-poor, well-drained soils and may not perform well with our rich, microbe-packed compost. Here’s a more comprehensive list of plants that prefer low-fertility soil conditions.

Herbs and shrubs from arid climates
•   Lavender (Lavandula spp.)
•   Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus)
•   Thyme (Thymus spp.)
•   Sage (Salvia spp., especially ornamental varieties)
•   Santolina (Santolina chamaecyparissus, also called lavender cotton)
•   Russian Sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia)

Succulents and drought-tolerant plants
•   Sedum (Stonecrop varieties)
•   Echeveria
•   Jade Plant (Crassula ovata)
•   Aloe Vera
•   Cactus (Various species)

Wildflowers for low-fertility soils

Wildflowers often evolved in low-nutrient soils and can struggle with excessive fertility. Examples include:
•   Poppies (Papaver spp.)
•   Cosmos (Some varieties like Cosmos sulphureus)
•   Coreopsis (Coreopsis lanceolata, aka tickseed)
•   Gaillardia (Blanket flower)
•   Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa)
•   Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)
•   Blue Flax (Linum perenne)
•   Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta, in naturally lean soils)
•   Bachelor’s Button (Centaurea cyanus)
•   Corncockle (Agrostemma githago)
•   Dianthus (Cheddar pinks or maiden pinks)
•   Wild Lupine (Lupinus perennis, adapted to sandy soils)
•   Blazing Star (Liatris spicata)

Carnivorous plants

Carnivorous plants are adapted to nutrient-poor, acidic soils and rely on trapping insects for nutrition. Avoid compost for:
•   Venus Flytrap (Dionaea muscipula)
•   Pitcher Plants (Sarracenia spp.)
•   Sundews (Drosera spp.)
•   Butterworts (Pinguicula vulgaris)

Other plants that thrive in low-fertility soils
•   Heaths and heathers (Erica and Calluna spp.)
•   Rock garden plants (like Saxifraga and Armeria)
•   Broom (Cytisus scoparius)
•   Catmint (Nepeta spp.)
•   Edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum)
•   Sea Thrift (Armeria maritima)
•   Ornamental grasses (Such as blue fescue and little bluestem)

General rule of thumb

Plants native to dry, rocky, or sandy regions often prefer lean soil conditions. Over-fertilizing or using nutrient-rich compost can result in excessive foliage growth at the expense of flowers, leggy or weakened stems, or even root rot.

For gardeners wanting to grow these species, amending soil lightly with sand, perlite, or grit instead of compost is often the better approach.

Adapting our compost to low-fertility soil

Here are some practical ways to adapt Deep Roots Project’s high-fertility compost to create a lower-fertility soil:

1. Mix with leaf mulch (1:1 Ratio) Leaf mulch, made from shredded or decomposing leaves, is low in nutrients but rich in organic carbon. Mixing compost with leaf mulch:
•   Dilutes the nutrient density.
•   Adds texture and drainage.
•   Mimics natural forest soil, ideal for wildflowers and woodland ornamentals.

2. Mix with sand (1:1 ratio) Sand is an inert material that provides excellent drainage and aeration. Combining compost with sand:
•   Reduces nutrient levels.
•   Creates soil structure for succulents, herbs, and Mediterranean plants.
•   Prevents water-logging for plants sensitive to wet roots.
•   Use coarse builder’s sand, not play sand, to ensure proper drainage.

3. Mix with existing yard soil (1:1 ratio) Gardeners can create a custom soil blend by mixing compost with the natural soil in their yard:
•   Balances the high fertility of compost with the lower-nutrient properties of native soil.
•   Maintains a sense of "local" soil for native plants.
•   Encourages a gradual increase in soil health while staying lean.

4. Mix with topsoil from a garden center (1:1 ratio) Topsoil is often a basic, minimally amended soil available at garden centers. Combining compost with topsoil:
•   Provides a balanced medium with moderate fertility.
•   Works well for general-purpose planting.
•   Offers a cost-effective option for larger projects.

5. Add drit or dravel (Optional 1:1 or 1:2 ratio with compost) Grit or fine gravel is another way to dilute fertility and improve drainage:
•   Ideal for alpine plants, succulents, and drought-tolerant species.
•   Helps mimic rocky or sandy soil conditions.
•   Prevents root rot in plants sensitive to excess water and nutrients.

6. Let compost age before mixing: Letting compost sit and age (e.g., in a corner of the garden) naturally reduces nutrient content as some nutrients leach out with rain:
•   Combine aged compost with native soil or mulch.
•   A great option for gardeners looking to “weaken” compost without additional materials.

7. Use smaller amounts of compost in the nix (e.g., 1:2 or 1:3 ratios) For plants particularly sensitive to nutrient-rich compost, use less compost:
•   Mix 1 part compost with 2 or 3 parts sand, native soil, or other low-nutrient materials.
•   Tailor the blend to suit specific plant requirements.

8. Incorporate sawdust or wood chips. Mixing compost with sawdust or finely shredded wood chips:
•   Lowers fertility while adding organic carbon.
•   Ideal for creating soil conditions that mimic forest edges or sandy woodlands.
•   Works best with fully composted wood chips to avoid nitrogen lock-up.

9. Combine with peat moss or coconut coir. For a lightweight, low-fertility medium, mix compost with:
•   Peat moss: Provides acidity and low nutrients, ideal for acid-loving plants.
•   Coconut coir: Sustainable and similar to peat moss, with excellent water retention.

10. Layer instead of mixing. For plants that thrive in lean soils, gardeners can layer compost beneath a top layer of sand, mulch, or low-nutrient soil:
•   Ensures roots can access nutrients gradually.
•   Keeps the surface lean, mimicking natural conditions.

How to find more details

Get more details on plants not on our list from Google, books and by contacting the Chicago Botanic Garden Plant Information Service ((847) 835-0972 or plantinfo@chicagobotanic.org).You could also experiment with these methods based on your plants’ needs.

Questions, comments, suggestions? We’d love to hear from you! If you need a quick answer to a gardening question give us a call or send a text. We are here to solve your gardening problems. Please call OR text our Customer Service team at 708-655-5299 OR send an email to: support@deep-roots-project.org.

Happy Gardening!

By following the Deep Roots Project’s transformational gardening methods through the seasons, you will create a thriving, nutrient-rich garden that supports both your plants and the soil. See the full list of our Grow Your Own Food blog posts. Each post is assigned ”tags” which are under the post title.

Deep Roots Supports Gardeners

We provide our gardeners with the best products for success – like cedar raised beds, microbe-rich compost and microbe-rich worm castings. Check our online store. Always talk to our customer support team before placing your order online. If you need help or have a question contact us at support[at]deep-roots-project.org and 708-655-5299.

 Deep Roots online store

See our online store for details about prices, ordering and delivery of raised beds, planter boxes, microbe-rich compost, worm castings, leaf mulch and more. We don’t sell traditional soil, since we use 100% compost as our growing medium. Our online store has 2 sections – (1) raised beds and planter boxes and (2) compost, worm castings, fertilizer.

Please contact our customer support team before placing an order online so we can assist you with the details and answer your gardening questions. You can pay by credit card on the store or by check.

(708) 655-5299 and support[at]deep-roots-project.org        

Gardening connects you to the Earth. Our community connects you to each other.

Please leave your cell phone number when you sign up for our eNewsletter, if you want text message announcements now and then. 

Donations help us provide organic kitchen gardening education to individuals, organizations, and entire communities. Thank you in advance for contributing to our community and for sharing our website and blog with friends and family.

Moisture and Mulch

Different plants need different kinds of watering. Some veggies need more frequent and deeper watering than others. Seeds and seedlings need to be constantly moist. Although deep watering is sometimes best, over watering can also stress your plants. Of course, there will be a lot of variables to take into consideration – such as the amount of rain and other weather conditions. Do a simple moisture test with your finger on the top 2 to 4 inches of soil before you water. Be careful about the watering tips you see circulating on the internet or in Youtube videos!

Proper watering is critical to plant health

Just as soil health depends on the latest soil science – the same is true of about watering edible plants.The Deep Roots method creates the best environment for your plants because our compost used as soil has good drainage and lets the water get to the plant roots quickly. We recommend installing drip irrigation if you don’t have time to water or go out of town often. Take time to correctly set the irrigation timing and amount.

Cover soil with straw mulch & compost

Retaining as much moisture as possible saves watering time and keeps your plant healthy and happy. Our method use two layers – a one inch layer of compost covered by a couple inches of cut-up straw. Don’t use hay since it can add unwanted seeds to your garden. We grow our own straw by planting a large beautiful prairie grass called Miscanthus. Over winter the grass dries and in the spring we cut it down and store it in large barrels with lids. Keeping the straw dry is important.

DON’T water a little everyday!

Because It promotes shallow roots. One of the worst practices is to water your garden lightly every day or every few days. This frequent sprinkling provides water to only the top layer of the soil and promotes shallow root systems.

Simple, standard suggestions like: water every day and “make sure you give your plants an inch of water each week” are now being questioned and re-evaluated. Because the plant’s roots are not close to the soil surface, we now know that the water needs to get deep enough. AND the roots need to have enough time to soak it up will allow the plants to develop deep root systems that are necessary to be healthy.

But, be careful since over watering stresses many plants. If top 2 inches of soil feels dry it’s time to water. Soak the soil to a depth of 4 to 6 inches. Test for soil moisture also after you water.

Overhead watering (sprinklers) is the least efficient and least preferred method of watering. Far too much of the water is lost to evaporation. Water the soil, not the plants with a soaker hose, drip irrigation, watering can or watering wand. Overhead watering substantially increases the risk of fungal disease, especially in humid and rainy climates.

Watering tips from our horticulturist

• Some conventional soils can have drainage problems, so too much water does not allow plant roots to breathe and will cause plants to wilt from lack of oxygen.

• Don’t water too fast. Water gently at all times. When watering with a hose, avoid a hard stream of water, which risks injuring your plants and the soil. Use a steady, gentle shower of water instead – but only on the soil, not the plants.

• If you are using municipal water, put a water filter on your hose or water source. Municipal water often has levels of chlorine that kill essential microorganisms. There are also many harmful pollutants in some city water.

• Lack of water stresses plants. Drought may produce stunted fruit, produce no fruit at all, or may produce tasteless, woody, or unpalatable fruit.

• Over watering stresses plants. Over watering can cause as much stress as severe drought. Too much water will saturate soils, displace air which starves the roots of oxygen. The compost Deep Roots uses instead of conventional soil (Microbe Rich Compost) has good drainage properties.

• Keep SEEDS moist at all times. Germinating seeds must be constantly moist. Watering seeds twice a day may be needed on dry hot days. It’s easiest to let drip irrigation water your seeds. Some gardeners without irrigation have found a work-around that saves time and constant attention.

• Place a board or large tiles over tiny carrot seeds. This keeps the moisture in the soil longer and protects them from being washed away by heavy rain. Make note of how many days it takes for the first sign of germination. Check the seeds everyday when it is close to germination. Remove the cover when the first seed sprouts. Some seeds will sprout sooner and some later. Carrot seeds are very tiny and need to be kept constantly moisturized more carefully.

• Keep SEEDLINGS moist at all times and water daily or more often for 2 weeks. When the seedling is at least 5 inches tall its roots are stronger and constant monitoring is not necessary. Test soil before and after watering and water gently and deeply as needed.

• Don’t over water seeds! Finding the right amount of water for your seeds is difficult. Not enough and they will not germinate - BUT too much and they could rot. Just to be safe - water seeds lightly twice a day - you just need to moisten the top layer.

• When plant leaves wilt on a very hot day, it could be from the heat and not lack of water.

• Prune off lower foliage of plants prone to fungal diseases that prefer damp environments like powdery mildew on cucumbers and squash) and like tomato blights. Water very close to the soil with a watering wand on a hose or a watering can. Avoid wetting the leaves. Water early in the day

• Health of mature plants is dependent on correct watering. Remember that large plants need a lot more water than seedlings. We want mature plants to have deeper roots that suck lots of water out of the soil.

• A drip irrigation system nurtures healthier plants and less stressed gardeners. If you can’t or don’t want to water and monitor your soil moisture constantly get a drip irrigation system. Drip irrigation should be the watering method of choice. It will save you time and make your plants stronger, happier and healthier. The larger your garden the more critical drip irrigation becomes. Contact the Deep Roots team for advice on installing the new system we designed.

“GrowYour Own Food” blog posts

Questions, comments, suggestions? We’d love to hear from you! Send photos of your garden too! 

See the full list of our Grow Your Own Food blog posts. Our blog posts are divided into 6 categories –  each with its own page of blog post photos and summaries. 

Questions, comments, suggestions? We’d love to hear from you! If you need a quick answer to a gardening question give us a call or send a text. We are here to solve your gardening problems. Please call OR text our Customer Service team at 708-655-5299 OR send an email to: support@deep-roots-project.org.

Deep Roots online store

See our online store for details about prices, ordering and delivery of raised beds, planter boxes, microbe-rich compost, worm castings, leaf mulch and more. We don’t sell traditional soil, since we use 100% compost as our growing medium. Our online store has 2 sections – (1) raised beds and planter boxes and (2) compost, worm castings, fertilizer.

Please contact our customer support team before placing an order online so we can assist you with the details and answer your gardening questions. You can pay by credit card on the store or by check.

(708) 655-5299 and support[at]deep-roots-project.org        

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Donations help us provide organic kitchen gardening education to individuals, organizations, and entire communities. Thank you in advance for contributing to our community and for sharing our website and blog with friends and family.