Installing Hoops on Raised Beds
If you're new to gardening with raised beds, adding hoops is one of the smartest, most affordable upgrades you can make. Hoops let you cover your plants with protective materials like shade cloth, bird netting, row covers, or plastic—helping you grow more successfully through all seasons.
grow more successfully through all seasons.
If you're new to gardening with raised beds, adding hoops is one of the smartest, most affordable upgrades you can make. Hoops let you cover your plants with protective materials like shade cloth, bird netting, row covers, or plastic—helping you grow more successfully through all seasons.
Easy Inexpensive Hoop Systems for Raised Beds
Whether you want to block harsh sun, stop birds and rabbits, warm up your soil in spring, or shield your crops from early frosts, there's a hoop system that can help. Below are four types of hoops you can make yourself using easy-to-find materials. Each method is simple and ideal for beginners. Watch video How to Make Hoops for Raised Beds.
Contact our customer support team about buying bug netting bags and sheets from us. The bug netting page is not yet on our store.
Tips for First-Time Gardeners
Start with a simple material like poly tubing or PVC. Choose your hoop height based on how big your plants will get and what kind of protection they need. Use shade cloth in hot summer months to protect cool-season crops from burning. In spring and fall, cover your hoops with row cover or plastic to warm up the soil and shield from cold. And always secure your hoops well—wind can lift lightweight covers if they’re not anchored.
With just a small investment in materials and time, hoops can help protect your plants, extend your harvest, and give you more gardening success all year round.
Black Poly Tubing – Light, Simple, Inexpensive
Black poly tubing (½-inch wide) is one of the easiest and cheapest materials to work with. It’s ideal for supporting lightweight materials like row cover fabric, insect netting, or bird netting. When you cut it into 5-foot lengths, the resulting hoop stands about 16 inches above the soil—perfect for small plants like strawberries or young seedlings.
You can cut the tubing with a utility knife or a plastic pipe cutter. Pipe cutters are safer and easier for beginners—just squeeze and twist to get a clean cut. To install the hoops, you can push the ends into the soil if your raised bed isn’t too wide. However, for more stability, especially if you’re using wooden beds, attach tube straps to the inside of your bed walls and slide the tubing into them. These straps screw into the wood and hold the tubing firmly in place. If you use ¾-inch straps, you’ll have the flexibility to upgrade to thicker tubing later without replacing the hardware.
This setup is incredibly affordable. You can build a full hoop system for one bed for less than five dollars.
PVC Pipe – Sturdier for bug netting, plastic & more
For more durability and strength, many gardeners turn to schedule 40 PVC pipe, either ½-inch or ¾-inch in diameter. This option can handle heavier covers like plastic or shade cloth. If you cut the pipe into 6-foot lengths, you’ll get hoops about 24 inches tall. That’s enough height for medium-sized crops or for general spring and summer protection. If you're growing taller plants or want a tunnel-like structure in fall, leave the 10-foot pipes uncut to make hoops that reach about 50 inches above the soil.
Just like with poly tubing, you can use tube straps to secure the ends to your bed. But when working with taller hoops, a better method is to drive short metal stakes—called rebar—into the ground, then slide the ends of the PVC pipe over the rebar. This gives your hoops more stability and keeps them upright even in wind or rain.
Tall hoops can be a bit floppy, especially when covered with plastic, so it helps to support the structure using long wooden strips. A simple 1 x 2-inch fir strip works well. Place one strip across the top of the hoops and one on each long side of the bed, tying them to the PVC using twine. This keeps the entire system firm and resistant to wind. A basic medium-height PVC hoop setup costs about five to eight dollars. A taller system with rebar and bracing runs closer to ten dollars.
Metal Conduit – Durable & Professional
Metal conduit (also called EMT) is a galvanized steel tube used for running electrical wire, but it makes fantastic, long-lasting garden hoops. These hoops are stronger and more stable than PVC, and they don’t degrade in sunlight. Many gardeners use ¾-inch conduit for high hoops, which makes them great for large covers, heavy winds, or repeated seasonal use.
Conduit doesn’t bend easily by hand, so you’ll need a special metal hoop bender (also called a jig), available from garden suppliers. Once mounted to a sturdy surface, the jig lets you gradually bend the conduit into a smooth arch. You’ll need to move the pipe slowly along the jig, making the bend in sections to get a nice even curve. When done, the hoops are typically sized to span a 4-foot-wide raised bed.
To install metal conduit hoops, drive rebar stakes into the ground, just as with PVC hoops, and slide the ends of the metal pipe over them. You can tie a fir strip across the top for added support, using twine or clamps. While metal conduit hoops cost about twice as much as PVC (closer to $20 for a full setup), they’re incredibly sturdy and will last for many seasons. For serious gardeners, they’re often worth the extra investment.
Cattle Panels – Super Sturdy & Dual-Purpose
Cattle panels are another excellent option for hoops, especially if you want something that doubles as a trellis. These are heavy-duty, welded wire grids used for fencing livestock, and they come in 16-foot lengths. Cut into 6-foot sections, they can be bent into low arches that stand about two feet above your raised bed. They're perfect for shade cloth, row cover, or netting—and sturdy enough to last for decades.
To cut a cattle panel, use bolt cutters to snip through the wire. Then, place one end of the panel on the ground and bend it into a hoop using your body weight. Start in the middle and gradually curve the sides until you have the shape you want. Once shaped, press the ends into the soil or secure them with stakes.
Cattle panels are strong enough to hold up to wind, snow, and even climbing plants. In fact, many gardeners let beans, cucumbers, or peas grow up through the panel, using it as both a cover and a vertical trellis. One downside is transportation. At 16 feet long, you’ll need a truck or trailer to bring them home from the store. But once you have them, cattle panels are among the longest-lasting and most useful hoop systems available. Surprisingly, they cost less than the metal conduit option.
Choosing the Right Hoop System
Choosing the right hoop depends on your plants and your goals. Low hoops, around 16 to 24 inches tall, are perfect for protecting small plants and seedlings in early spring. Medium hoops, 24 to 36 inches high, are great for general use throughout the growing season. High hoops, about 50 inches tall, work best later in the season or for tall crops like tomatoes and pole beans.
Most gardeners use different hoop types at different times. You might use low hoops in spring to protect lettuce from a late frost, then switch to tall hoops in fall to extend the growing season for your tomatoes. Medium hoops can be helpful all season long, especially if you're dealing with birds, bugs, or hail.
Join the Deep Roots movement
We’re not just about gardening; we’re about changing the way people grow food. Whether you have a tiny balcony or a full backyard, we’ll help you grow like a pro.
Stay in the loop: Signup for our email newsletter. If you also provide your phone number you will get text message updates that link to our best blog posts.
Get involved: Attend a free workshop, become a volunteer, grab a raised bed, or simply follow along for expert tips. Contact our support team any time you have a question at 708-655-5299 and support@deep-roots-project.org.
Learn. Share. Grow. Volunteer: We invite you to be a part of our sustainable movement right here in our own backyards! We want all our volunteers to have fun and learn while they contribute to expanding the Deep Roots community. We can customize a volunteer assignment to your time, interests and skills. Learn more on our Volunteer page
Let’s make this your most delicious year yet!
Dive Deeper
Click on the Blog Posts Below for more about our Innovative methods.
Beautify Garden with Our Cedar Raised Beds!
Our Deep Roots handcrafted cedar raised beds are designed to endure outdoors while adding a touch of style to your yard. As a bonus, they are the perfect depth to hold just the right amount of our nutrient-rich compost growing medium, which comes free with each bed.
Deep Roots Supports Gardeners
We provide our gardeners with the best products for success – like cedar raised beds, microbe-rich compost and microbe-rich worm castings. Check our online store. Always talk to our customer support team before placing your order online. If you need help or have a question contact us at support[at]deep-roots-project.org and 708-655-5299.
Deep Roots Online Store
See our online store for details about prices, ordering and delivery of raised beds, planter boxes, microbe-rich compost, worm castings, leaf mulch and more. We don’t sell traditional soil, since we use 100% compost as our growing medium. Our online store has 2 sections – (1) raised beds and planter boxes and (2) compost, worm castings, fertilizer.
Please contact our customer support team before placing an order online so we can assist you with the details and answer your gardening questions. You can pay by credit card in the store or by check.
Please leave your cell phone number when you sign up for our eNewsletter, if you want text message announcements now and then.
Donations help us provide organic kitchen gardening education to individuals, organizations, and entire communities. Thank you in advance for contributing to our community and for sharing our website and blog with friends and family.
Spring Planting Step-by-Step
Welcome to your ultimate Spring gardening guide! In this step-by-step roadmap, you'll discover all the essential tasks needed to kickstart your garden for the season. Along the way, you’ll find links to additional blog posts that invite you to explore each topic in greater depth, ensuring you have all the knowledge and inspiration you need to cultivate your green oasis.
Welcome to your ultimate Spring gardening guide! In this step-by-step roadmap, you'll discover all the essential tasks needed to kickstart your garden for the season. Along the way, you’ll find links to additional blog posts that invite you to explore each topic in greater depth, ensuring you have all the knowledge and inspiration you need to cultivate your green oasis.
Here are the Basics
• Start planting in March: In Zone 5 and 6, March is an excellent time to plant cold-hardy vegetables that can tolerate the cool temperatures of early spring. View our blog post on Climate Zones.
• Spread compost in spring and fall: Spread 2-inch layer of our microbe rich compost on your existing beds to replenish microbes and nutrients.
• Plant with worm castings: Use our top quality worm castings fertilizer, also called ”vermicompost” to plant seeds and seedlings.
• Planting seeds and seedlings: View our blog posts on:
Planting for Beginners
Next Level Planting
Seed Starting Indoors
Winter Sowing outdoors.
Maximizing Your Results
• Biodiversity planting: Cultivating a variety of different plant species within a given area, aiming to create a diverse ecosystem that supports a wider range of wildlife, including pollinators, insects, and birds, by providing food and shelter throughout the growing season. View our blog post on Biodiversity
• No need to rotate crops when you practice biodiversity. Rotation is for monoculture planting (same crops in one field or one bed).
• Succession Planting: Sow fast-growing crops every 2-3 weeks for a continuous harvest. View our blog post on Succession Planting.
• Maximize space: Use trellises for peas, companion plant smaller crops between slow-growing ones. View our blog post on Trellises
• Mulch early: Use straw or compost to retain moisture and suppress weeds after seedlings are 3 inches tall. If you use both, put the straw on top.Try not to mix straw with soil/compost since it dilutes the compost nutrients. Don’t use hay or anything that contains weed seeds. View our blog post on Moisture and Mulch.
Managing Pests
• Pest alert Swede Midge: Protect from Swede Midge fly which attacks only Brassica crops like broccoli, collards, cabbage, kale, Brussel sprouts. We got decent harvests from kale and collards last year by protecting our beds with bug netting, and harvesting all big leaves quickly. Wash the leaves well. Swede Midge is a recent invasive pest in the Northeast and Midwest.View blog post on Swede Midge fly.
• Pest alert Club Root disease: We stopped growing broccoli altogether because protection from Club Root disease needs a large garden and takes to much time and planning. Watch this video on club root disease.
• Install Hoops and Netting to stop pests. See Installing Hoops on Raised Beds.
Cold Tolerant Veggies
All of these can be direct-seeded outdoors as soon as the soil is workable and above freezing. If you want a head start, you can start some of these indoors and transplant them in mid to late March.
Leafy Greens:
• Lettuce (Romaine, Butterhead, Leaf varieties)
• Spinach (doesn’t transplant well, direct seed in November)
• Swiss Chard
• Arugula
• Endive
• Radicchio
Root Vegetables:
• Carrots
• Beets
• Parsnips
• Radishes
• Turnips (not Brassica but closely related)
• Salsify
Alliums (Onion Family):
• Onions (sets or seeds)
• Shallots
• Garlic (if not already planted in fall)
• Leeks (start indoors or plant young starts)
Legumes:
• Peas (snap peas, shelling peas, snow peas, all need a trellis)
• Fava Beans (needs a trellis)
Herbs:
• Cilantro
• Parsley
• Chervil
Growing in Partial Sunlight
If you have less than 8 hours of full sun, you can still grow a variety of spring vegetables, including leafy greens like lettuce, kale, spinach, and chard, as well as root vegetables like carrots, radishes, and beets. Here's a list of vegetables that can tolerate less than 8 hours of full sun:
Leafy Greens:
• Lettuce: Most lettuce varieties thrive in partial shade.
• Kale: Kale can tolerate partial shade and will still produce edible leaves, though they may not be as stocky as those grown in full sun.
• Spinach: Spinach is another excellent choice for partial shade.
• Chard (Swiss Chard): Swiss chard is a great option for partial shade, and its leaves can bolt and become bitter if exposed to too much sun.
• Arugula: Arugula also does well in partial shade.
• Mustard Greens: These greens are also shade-tolerant.
• Collard Greens: Collard greens can also thrive in partial shade.
Root Vegetables:
• Carrots: Carrots can tolerate partial shade, though they may take longer to mature.
• Radishes: Radishes are relatively shade-tolerant.
• Beets: Beets also prefer full sun, but can tolerate partial shade.
• Turnips: Turnips can tolerate partial shade.
• Rutabaga: Rutabaga is another root vegetable that can tolerate partial shade.
Planting Tips for Early Spring Veggies
Since March in Zone 6 can still have frost, it's best to focus on cold-hardy vegetables that tolerate chilly soil. Here are some tips for direct seeding and transplanting:
1. Soil preparation
• Fill new raised beds or in-ground beds with our microbe-rich compost
• Cover the existing beds with 2 inches of our microbe-rich compost.
• Make sure the soil is workable (not too wet or frozen). If it crumbles in your hand and isn’t sticky, it’s good to go.
• Use “row cover” light-weight white fabric to warm up the soil faster and provide a slight frost buffer.
2. Direct-seeding cold-hardy vegetables (best for March)
These seeds can go directly in the ground when soil reaches 35–40°F:
• Peas (Trellis them to save space)
• Spinach (best to direct seed in November, can also sow every 2 weeks in spring for continued harvest)
• Carrots (Thin seedlings to avoid crowding)
• Beets (Soak seeds overnight for better germination)
• Radishes (Quick-growing; ready in 25-30 days)
• Parsnips (Long germination time; sow with radishes as a marker)
• Salsify (A lesser-known root vegetable; plant deep)
3. Transplanting young plants
Certain cold-hardy plants do better when started indoors and transplanted out in early spring. A quick alternative is to buy seedlings. “Winter sowing” using clear plastic milk jugs is also an option:
• Lettuce (Start indoors 3-4 weeks before planting out)
• Swiss Chard (Tolerates cold but grows faster from transplants)
• Leeks (Need a long season, so start early indoors)
• Onions (Plant sets or seedlings rather than seeds for an earlier harvest)
Succession Planting for a Continuous Harvest
Instead of planting everything at once, stagger your plantings for a continuous supply of fresh vegetables.
1. Quick-growing crops for succession planting
• Radishes – Every 10-14 days (harvests in 25-30 days)
• Spinach – Every 2 weeks (harvest young leaves continuously)
• Lettuce – Every 2-3 weeks (mix different varieties for variety)
• Cilantro & Parsley – Every 3 weeks (bolt-resistant varieties last longer)
2. Slow-growing crops that can be inter-cropped
• Carrots & Radishes – Plant together; radishes sprout first and loosen the soil for carrots.
• Beets & Lettuce – Beets take longer; lettuce matures quickly between rows.
• Peas & Spinach – Spinach can grow underneath peas before they take off.
3. Relay planting strategy
Once an early crop is harvested, immediately replant with something that can take its place:
• March: Radishes → Follow with carrots or bush beans (after frost risk)
• March: Peas → Follow with cucumbers or summer squash
• March-April: Spinach → Follow with basil or peppers in late spring
• March-April: Lettuce: Follow with warm-season greens (Malabar spinach
Early spring planting calendar (March-May)
This early spring calendar for Zone 6 outlines when to direct sow (DS), transplant (TP), or start seeds indoors (IN) for your early spring vegetables. Check the calendar for when to transplant purchased seedlings. Start Indoors (IN) for “Succession Crops” – more lettuce, radishes, cilantro, spinach for future plantings.
March Planting
March soil is workable, but it’s still cold, and there is some frost risk.
Direct seed (DS) outdoors:
• Peas (Sugar snap, shelling, snow) – Use trellises for vertical growth.
• Spinach – Best germination at 35–45°F soil temp.
• Carrots – Cover with burlap to maintain moisture.
• Beets – Soak seeds overnight for faster sprouting.
• Radishes – Successive plantings every 10-14 days.
• Parsnips – Takes 14–21 days to germinate, plant in loose soil.
• Salsify – Long season crop, plant deep.
Transplant (TP) outdoors.
(“Harden off” first. Gradually expose young plants grown indoors to outdoor conditions like sunlight, wind, and temperature fluctuations.
• Lettuce – Choose cold-hardy varieties like 'Winter Density.'
• Swiss Chard – Can tolerate frost but grows faster if started indoors.
• Leeks – Space 6 inches apart for full-size bulbs.
Start indoors (IN) for later transplanting:
• Celery – Needs 10-12 weeks indoors before transplant.
• Parsley & Cilantro – Start now and succession plant every 3 weeks.
April Planting
It’s still cool but warming with moderate frost risk.
Direct seed (DS) outdoors:
• More lettuce, spinach, radishes, carrots, beets – Continue succession planting.
• Green onions (scallions) – Can be grown densely.
• Fava Beans – Tolerate cool weather well.
Transplant (TP) outdoors:
• Swiss Chard – If not already planted in March.
• Leeks, onions, and celery – After hardening off.
Start indoors (IN) for warm season crops:
• Malabar Spinach (heat-loving alternative to spinach)
• Basil, Dill, and other tender herbs – Start for later transplant.
May Planting
Frost risk decreasing, more growth
Direct seed (DS) outdoors:
• Bush Beans – Only if soil reaches 55°F+ consistently.
• New rounds of radishes, lettuce, spinach, carrots, beets.
• Sweet Corn – Wait until soil is 60°F+ for best germination.
Transplant (TP) outdoors:
• Basil, Malabar Spinach, Summer Herbs – Once nighttime temps stay above 50°F.
• Celery & Parsley – Need regular watering.
Companion planting guide
Companion planting boosts plant health, repels pests, and enhances yields. Sow fast-growing crops every 2-3 weeks for a continuous harvest. Maximize space – use trellises for peas, companion plant smaller crops between slow-growing ones. Here’s how to pair your early spring crops:
Good companion pairings
• Carrots + Onions/Leeks – Onions repel carrot rust flies.
• Peas + Spinach – Peas provide shade for spinach in warming months.
• Beets + Lettuce – Lettuce fills gaps between slow-growing beets.
• Radishes + Carrots – Radishes loosen soil for slow-sprouting carrots.
• Lettuce + Cilantro – Cilantro helps deter aphids.
• Parsley + Carrots – Encourages beneficial insects like hoverflies.
• Peas + Mint – Mint deters aphids (but plant mint in containers!).
Avoid these pairings
• Carrots + Dill – Dill can stunt carrot growth.
• Peas + Onions – Onions inhibit pea growth.
• Beets + Pole Beans – Compete for nutrients.
• Fennel + Any Veggies – Fennel secretes chemicals that stop growth.
Join the Deep Roots movement
We’re not just about gardening; we’re about changing the way people grow food. Whether you have a tiny balcony or a full backyard, we’ll help you grow like a pro.
Stay in the loop: Signup for our email newsletter. If you also provide your phone number you will get text message updates that link to our best blog posts.
Get involved: Attend a free workshop, become a volunteer, grab a raised bed, or simply follow along for expert tips. Contact our support team any time you have a question at 708-655-5299 and support@deep-roots-project.org.
Learn. Share. Grow. Volunteer: We invite you to be a part of our sustainable movement right here in our own backyards! We want all our volunteers to have fun and learn while they contribute to expanding the Deep Roots community. We can customize a volunteer assignment to your time, interests and skills. Learn more on our Volunteer page
Let’s make this your most delicious year yet!
Dive Deeper
Click on the Blog Posts Below for more about our Innovative methods.
Beautify your yard with elegant cedar raised beds!
Our Deep Roots handcrafted cedar raised beds are designed to endure outdoors while adding a touch of style to your yard. As a bonus, they are the perfect depth to hold just the right amount of our nutrient-rich compost growing medium, which comes free with each bed.
Deep Roots Supports Gardeners
We provide our gardeners with the best products for success – like cedar raised beds, microbe-rich compost and microbe-rich worm castings. Check our online store. Always talk to our customer support team before placing your order online. If you need help or have a question contact us at support[at]deep-roots-project.org and 708-655-5299.
Deep Roots Online Store
See our online store for details about prices, ordering and delivery of raised beds, planter boxes, microbe-rich compost, worm castings, leaf mulch and more. We don’t sell traditional soil, since we use 100% compost as our growing medium. Our online store has 2 sections – (1) raised beds and planter boxes and (2) compost, worm castings, fertilizer.
Please contact our customer support team before placing an order online so we can assist you with the details and answer your gardening questions. You can pay by credit card in the store or by check.
Please leave your cell phone number when you sign up for our eNewsletter, if you want text message announcements now and then.
Donations help us provide organic kitchen gardening education to individuals, organizations, and entire communities. Thank you in advance for contributing to our community and for sharing our website and blog with friends and family.
Spring Is Peeking Around the Corner
And that means one thing – it’s time to DIG IN! Whether you’re a gardening guru or a total newbie, Deep Roots Project is here to make this year your most abundant, stress-free, and delicious growing season yet.
"Winter dreams manifest spring greens. Use this moment to immerse yourself in seed catalogs and choose some new varieties that we never see on supermarket shelves.”
– Rafa Crevoshay, Horticulturist, Deep Roots Project
Get Ready to Grow Your Own Food!
Spring means – it’s time to DIG IN! Whether you’re a gardening guru or a total newbie, Deep Roots Project is here to make this year your most abundant, stress-free, and delicious growing season yet.
Nothing beats the satisfaction of plucking a sun-ripened tomato straight from your backyard and taking that first juicy bite. But, of course, your tomatoes taste great too, after ripening in your kitchen.
Why grow your own healthy food?
Because grocery store tomatoes taste like cardboard, let’s be honest! Store-bought produce just doesn’t cut it. When you grow your own vegetables, you get:
• Explosively flavorful, nutrient-packed food that tastes the way nature intended. View our blog post on the growing health revolution.
• A fatter wallet—save hundreds of dollars on overpriced organic groceries.
• Peace of mind knowing exactly what’s in your food (hint: NO harmful pesticides or chemicals!).
• A natural mood booster—fresh air, sunshine, and playing in the dirt = instant stress relief. View our blog post Benefits of Food Gardening.
• Street “cred” with your neighbors—who doesn’t admire a thriving food garden? Learn how to grow an edible landscape.
Secret ingredient to your best garden ever
So, what makes Deep Roots Project different from every other gardening guide? We don’t mess around with traditional soil blends. Nope. We go straight to the gold—100% microbe- and nutrient-rich compost that transforms any garden into a thriving paradise. Think of it like a probiotic superfood for your plants, packed with living microbes that supercharge soil health and fuel unstoppable growth. It’s like rocket fuel for your lettuce, without the actual rocket.
What’s the #1 reason most gardeners struggle?
So many gardeners give up before they even get to their first harvest. Why? Because they don’t have the right guidance or the right foundation. That’s where we come in! Deep Roots Project is your shortcut to success. We take the guesswork out of growing by giving you:
• Step-by-step guidance—so you know exactly what to do (and when to do it!) Check out our Grow Your Own Food blog posts.
• Raised bed gardening support—get top-notch custom-built cedar raised beds and compost delivered to your yard, instantly ready to start planting. View our raised beds online store page.
• Worm castings fertilizer - also called “vermicompost” - is 100% worm poop. But the nutrient density depends on what the worms eat. Our Wisconsin farmer makes the absolute best nutrient and microbe dense worm castings. View our worm castings online store page.
• Workshops & events—hands-on learning and a vibrant community of fellow growers.
• Personalized advice—because every garden (and gardener) is unique.
What to do right now to have your best garden yet
If you want to be harvesting lot of crisp greens, juicy peppers, tomatoes and homegrown herbs ASAP, start NOW in the spring! Learn more from our blog posts “Larger Harvests in the Cool Seasons.”
Here’s what you can do today:
• Plan your dream garden—think about what you want to grow and how much space you have.
• Start with the best soil (ahem, we mean 100% compost!) - good soil = thriving plants. Period.
• Pick your plants wisely—choose high-yield crops suited to your climate.
• Get ready to plant—early crops can go in sooner than you think!
Join the Deep Roots movement
We’re not just about gardening; we’re about changing the way people grow food. Whether you have a tiny balcony or a full backyard, we’ll help you grow like a pro.
Stay in the loop: Signup for our email newsletter. If you also provide your phone number you will get text message updates that link to our best blog posts.
Get involved: Attend a free workshop, become a volunteer, grab a raised bed, or simply follow along for expert tips. Contact our support team any time you have a question at 708-655-5299 and support@deep-roots-project.org.
Learn. Share. Grow. Volunteer: We invite you to be a part of our sustainable movement right here in our own backyards! We want all our volunteers to have fun and learn while they contribute to expanding the Deep Roots community. We can customize a volunteer assignment to your time, interests and skills. Learn more on our Volunteer page
Let’s make this your most delicious year yet!
Dive Deeper
Click on the Blog Posts Below for more about our Innovative methods.
Beautify your yard with elegant cedar raised beds!
Our Deep Roots handcrafted cedar raised beds are designed to endure outdoors while adding a touch of style to your yard. As a bonus, they are the perfect depth to hold just the right amount of our nutrient-rich compost growing medium, which comes free with each bed.
Deep Roots Supports Gardeners
We provide our gardeners with the best products for success – like cedar raised beds, microbe-rich compost and microbe-rich worm castings. Check our online store. Always talk to our customer support team before placing your order online. If you need help or have a question contact us at support[at]deep-roots-project.org and 708-655-5299.
Deep Roots Online Store
See our online store for details about prices, ordering and delivery of raised beds, planter boxes, microbe-rich compost, worm castings, leaf mulch and more. We don’t sell traditional soil, since we use 100% compost as our growing medium. Our online store has 2 sections – (1) raised beds and planter boxes and (2) compost, worm castings, fertilizer.
Please contact our customer support team before placing an order online so we can assist you with the details and answer your gardening questions. You can pay by credit card in the store or by check.
Please leave your cell phone number when you sign up for our eNewsletter, if you want text message announcements now and then.
Donations help us provide organic kitchen gardening education to individuals, organizations, and entire communities. Thank you in advance for contributing to our community and for sharing our website and blog with friends and family.
Larger Harvests in the Cool Seasons
Maximizing your harvests in both spring and fall, especially in northern climates with short growing seasons, requires smart planning and efficient use of space.
Maximizing your harvests in both spring and fall, especially in northern climates with short growing seasons, requires smart planning and efficient use of space. By focusing on cool-season crops and utilizing techniques like succession planting, frost protection, and soil enrichment, you can enjoy larger, more plentiful harvests in both seasons. In this blog post, we’ll share tips on how to boost your spring and fall yields, helping you make the most of your limited garden space.
Bigger Harvests in Spring
Growing a bountiful spring harvest in a limited space, particularly in a northern climate zone with cold winters, can be challenging. However, with proper planning and management, it's still possible to get maximum harvest from such spaces. In this article, we'll discuss how to achieve this goal, including when to plant, what to plant, how to plant, when to harvest, and how to protect your plants from frost during climate change temperature surprises.
Getting maximum harvest from limited space in a northern climate zone with cold winters requires careful planning and management. Starting seeds indoors, choosing the right crops, maximizing available space, timing your harvests, and protecting your plants from frost are all essential steps to ensure a bountiful spring harvest. With these tips, you can enjoy fresh, homegrown produce even in challenging growing conditions.
When to plant: In northern climate zones, the ground is often frozen until late April or early May. Thus, it's essential to start your seeds indoors under grow lights in late winter or early spring to ensure that your plants will be ready to be transplanted outdoors when the ground thaws. There are also ways to start seeds outdoors like “cold frames” and special “winter sowing” milk jugs. See the chapter on “winter sowing” for more details on method and timing. Depending on the specific plant, you can start seeds indoors anywhere from 4-12 weeks before the last expected frost date in your area.
What to plant: For spring harvests in limited spaces, you should choose plants that grow quickly, produce a lot of food, and are cold-tolerant. Some examples of suitable crops include leafy greens like spinach, lettuce, and kale; root vegetables like carrots, beets, and radishes; and cool-season herbs like parsley, chives, and cilantro. Since spinach is especially cold hardy seeds can be direct sowed in the bed in November in cold climates. It will germinate in the spring
How to plant: In limited spaces, it's essential to maximize the use of available space. You can do this by planting in containers or raised beds, using vertical space, or interplanting. Planting in containers and raised beds allows for more control over soil quality and drainage, while vertical space can be utilized by growing crops on trellises, fences, or walls. Interplanting involves planting multiple crops in the same space, allowing for more efficient use of the area.
When to harvest: The timing of your harvest will depend on the specific crop you're growing, but generally, it's best to harvest leafy greens when they reach full size, But pick them before they “bolt” (when the plant begins to flower) since the taste often comes bitter. Root vegetables can be harvested when they reach maturity, usually between 2-3 months after planting, while herbs can be harvested continually throughout the season.
Protecting from frost: In northern climate zones, unexpected frosts can damage or kill crops that are not cold-tolerant. To protect your plants from frost, you can cover them with blankets or tarps, use “row cover” fabric, or bring potted plants indoors during cold snaps. You can also choose cold-hardy varieties of plants that are less susceptible to frost damage. See our blog post Installing Hoops on Raised Beds.
Bigger Harvests in Fall
While focusing on spring harvests is key, maximizing your fall harvests can directly impact your spring production. Preparing your garden for a successful fall harvest allows your soil to rest, regenerate, and replenish nutrients needed for the next growing season. Here are some tips for making the most of your fall garden to ensure larger, healthier harvests come spring:
Extend the Growing Season: In northern climates, the frost-free growing season can often feel too short. However, there are several ways to extend this period. Consider using row covers, cloches, or even cold frames to protect your fall crops from the first frost. These simple structures trap warmth and create a micro-climate that allows for continued growth even as temperatures drop. Adding a layer of mulch around plants also helps retain warmth and moisture, further protecting them from the chill.
Focus on Late-Season Crops: Choosing crops that thrive in cooler temperatures will help you make the most of your fall harvests. Plant hardy vegetables such as cabbage, Brussels sprouts, kale, and leeks, all of which improve in flavor after a frost. Root vegetables like carrots and parsnips can be left in the ground through the fall, allowing them to mature even as the weather cools. Certain herbs, like thyme and sage, are also very frost-tolerant and can continue growing into late fall, offering fresh seasoning for your winter dishes.
Harvest at the Right Time: To optimize your fall harvest, timing is crucial. For crops like root vegetables, waiting until after the first frost often results in sweeter flavors. For leafy greens, harvest before the weather turns too cold, as they can become bitter after frost. Early harvesting also prevents overcrowding, allowing your crops to continue growing into the cooler months. When you harvest, leave some of the root systems intact—many root crops can regrow in the fall for a second harvest, offering more food in the months ahead.
Compost and Feed the Soil: Fall is an ideal time to replenish the soil after a long growing season. Adding organic matter such as compost or well-aged manure ensures that your soil is rich with the nutrients needed for an abundant spring harvest. Mix this compost into your raised beds or garden beds so that it can break down over the winter, creating nutrient-rich soil for the upcoming planting season. Worm castings, a rich source of nutrients, are also great for improving soil quality and promoting healthy root growth for next spring.
Plan for Succession Planting: To make the most of your space, use the fall season for succession planting. As early crops are harvested, new crops can be planted in their place. Fast-growing vegetables like radishes, turnips, and quick-maturing greens such as arugula or mustard greens can still be grown in the late summer or early fall and harvested before the first frost. This technique allows you to grow multiple crops in the same area, increasing your overall yield.
Prepare for Spring: Preparing for spring begins in the fall. Use the cooler months to clean, tidy, and reset your garden, which will make planting easier come spring. You can also plan for new crops that will be ready for early spring, such as peas and onions, by setting up your raised beds, containers, or seed-starting area. Planting cover crops like clover or vetch during the fall helps prevent soil erosion, fix nitrogen, and add organic material, creating a healthy, thriving environment for your spring crops.
By increasing your fall harvests, you ensure a more abundant and healthier spring harvest. Maximizing your garden’s potential during the colder months will set you up for a season of bountiful produce, helping you grow fresh, flavorful food even when space is limited.
Spring Planting Step-by-Step
The basics with links to more posts:
• Start planting in March: In Zone 5 and 6, March is an excellent time to plant cold-hardy vegetables that can tolerate the cool temperatures of early spring. View our blog post on Climate Zones.
• Spread compost in spring and fall: Spread 2-inch layer of our microbe rich compost on your existing beds to replenish microbes and nutrients. Read our blog post on Compost, Microbes and Soil Science.
• Plant with worm castings: Use our top quality worm castings fertilizer, also called ”vermicompost” to plant seeds and seedlings. Explore more with our article Worm Casting Fertilizer and Microorganisms.
• Planting seeds and seedlings: View our blog posts on Planting for Beginners, Next Level Planting, Seed Starting Indoors, Winter Sowing outdoors.
• Biodiversity planting: Cultivating a variety of different plant species within a given area, aiming to create a diverse ecosystem that supports a wider range of wildlife, including pollinators, insects, and birds, by providing food and shelter throughout the growing season. View our blog post on Biodiversity
• Planting seedlings and seeds: View our blog posts on planting using
No need to rotate crops when you practice biodiversity. Rotation is for mono culture planting (same crops in one field or one bed).
Succession Planting: Sow fast-growing crops every 2-3 weeks for a continuous harvest. View our blog post on Succession Planting.
Maximize space: Use trellises for peas, companion plant smaller crops between slow-growing ones. View our blog post on Trellises.
Mulch early: Use straw or compost to retain moisture and suppress weeds after seedlings are 3 inches tall. If you use both, put the straw on top.Try not to mix straw with soil/compost since it dilutes the compost nutrients. Don’t use hay or anything that contains weed seeds. View our blog post on Moisture and Mulch.
Pest alert Swede Midge: Protect from Swede Midge fly which attacks only Brassica crops like broccoli, collards, cabbage, kale, Brussel sprouts. We got decent harvests from kale and collards last year by protecting our beds with bug netting, and harvesting all big leaves quickly. Wash the leaves well. Swede Midge is a recent invasive pest in the Northeast and Midwest.View blog post on Swede Midge fly.
Pest alert Club Root disease: We stopped growing broccoli altogether because protection from Club Root disease needs a large garden and takes to much time and planning. Watch this video on club root disease.
Cold tolerant veggies:
All of these can be direct-seeded outdoors as soon as the soil is workable and above freezing. If you want a head start, you can start some of these indoors and transplant them in mid to late March.
Leafy Greens:
• Lettuce (Romaine, Butterhead, Leaf varieties)
• Spinach (doesn’t transplant well, direct seed in November)
• Swiss Chard
• Arugula
• Endive
• Radicchio
Root Vegetables:
• Carrots
• Beets
• Parsnips
• Radishes
• Turnips (not Brassica but closely related)
• Salsify
Alliums (Onion Family):
• Onions (sets or seeds)
• Shallots
• Garlic (if not already planted in fall)
• Leeks (start indoors or plant young starts)
Legumes:
• Peas (snap peas, shelling peas, snow peas)
• Fava Beans
Herbs:
• Cilantro
• Parsley
• Chervil
Planting tips for early spring veggies
Since March in Zone 6 can still have frost, it's best to focus on cold-hardy vegetables that tolerate chilly soil. Here are some tips for direct seeding and transplanting:
1. Soil preparation
Fill new raised beds or in-ground beds with our microbe-rich compost
Cover the existing beds with 2 inches of our microbe-rich compost.
Make sure the soil is workable (not too wet or frozen). If it crumbles in your hand and isn’t sticky, it’s good to go.
Use “row cover” light-weight white fabric to warm up the soil faster and provide a slight frost buffer.
2. Direct-seeding cold-hardy vegetables (best for March)
These seeds can go directly in the ground when soil reaches 35–40°F:
Peas (Trellis them to save space)
Spinach (best to direct seed in November, can also sow every 2 weeks in spring for continued harvest)
Carrots (Thin seedlings to avoid crowding)
Beets (Soak seeds overnight for better germination)
Radishes (Quick-growing; ready in 25-30 days)
Parsnips (Long germination time; sow with radishes as a marker)
Salsify (A lesser-known root vegetable; plant deep)
3. Transplanting young plants
Certain cold-hardy plants do better when started indoors and transplanted out in early spring. A quick alternative is to buy seedlings. “Winter sowing” using clear plastic milk jugs is also an option:
Lettuce (Start indoors 3-4 weeks before planting out)
Swiss Chard (Tolerates cold but grows faster from transplants)
Leeks (Need a long season, so start early indoors)
Onions (Plant sets or seedlings rather than seeds for an earlier harvest)
Succession planting for a continuous harvest
Instead of planting everything at once, stagger your plantings for a continuous supply of fresh vegetables.
1. Quick-growing crops for succession planting
Radishes – Every 10-14 days (harvests in 25-30 days)
Spinach – Every 2 weeks (harvest young leaves continuously)
Lettuce – Every 2-3 weeks (mix different varieties for variety)
Cilantro & Parsley – Every 3 weeks (bolt-resistant varieties last longer)
2. Slow-growing crops that can be inter-cropped
Carrots & Radishes – Plant together; radishes sprout first and loosen the soil for carrots.
Beets & Lettuce – Beets take longer; lettuce matures quickly between rows.
Peas & Spinach – Spinach can grow underneath peas before they take off.
3. Relay planting strategy
Once an early crop is harvested, immediately replant with something that can take its place:
March: Radishes → Follow with carrots or bush beans (after frost risk)
March: Peas → Follow with cucumbers or summer squash
March-April: Spinach → Follow with basil or peppers in late spring
March-April: Lettuce: Follow with warm-season greens (Malabar spinach
Early spring planting calendar (March-May)
This early spring calendar for Zone 6 outlines when to direct sow (DS), transplant (TP), or start seeds indoors (IN) for your early spring vegetables. Check the calendar for when to transplant purchased seedlings. Start Indoors (IN) for “Succession Crops” – more lettuce, radishes, cilantro, spinach for future plantings.
March planting
March soil is workable, but it’s still cold, and there is some frost risk.
Direct seed (DS) outdoors:
Peas (Sugar snap, shelling, snow) – Use trellises for vertical growth.
Spinach – Best germination at 35–45°F soil temp.
Carrots – Cover with burlap to maintain moisture.
Beets – Soak seeds overnight for faster sprouting.
Radishes – Successive plantings every 10-14 days.
Parsnips – Takes 14–21 days to germinate, plant in loose soil.
Salsify – Long season crop, plant deep.
Transplant (TP) outdoors.
“Harden off” first. Gradually expose young plants grown indoors to outdoor conditions like sunlight, wind, and temperature fluctuations.
Lettuce – Choose cold-hardy varieties like 'Winter Density.'
Swiss Chard – Can tolerate frost but grows faster if started indoors.
Leeks – Space 6 inches apart for full-size bulbs.
Start indoors (IN) for later transplanting:
Celery – Needs 10-12 weeks indoors before transplant.
Parsley & Cilantro – Start now and succession plant every 3 weeks.
April planting
It’s still cool but warming with moderate frost risk.
Direct seed (DS) outdoors:
More lettuce, spinach, radishes, carrots, beets – Continue succession planting.
Green onions (scallions) – Can be grown densely.
Fava Beans – Tolerate cool weather well.
Transplant (TP) outdoors:
Swiss Chard – If not already planted in March.
Leeks, onions, and celery – After hardening off.
Start indoors (IN) for warm season crops:
Malabar Spinach (heat-loving alternative to spinach)
Basil, Dill, and other tender herbs – Start for later transplant.
May planting
Frost risk decreasing, more growth
Direct seed (DS) outdoors:
Bush Beans – Only if soil reaches 55°F+ consistently.
New rounds of radishes, lettuce, spinach, carrots, beets.
Sweet Corn – Wait until soil is 60°F+ for best germination.
Transplant (TP) outdoors:
Basil, Malabar Spinach, Summer Herbs – Once nighttime temps stay above 50°F.
Celery & Parsley – Need regular watering.
Companion planting guide
Companion planting boosts plant health, repels pests, and enhances yields. Sow fast-growing crops every 2-3 weeks for a continuous harvest. Maximize space – use trellises for peas, companion plant smaller crops between slow-growing ones. Here’s how to pair your early spring crops:
Good companion pairings
• Carrots + Onions/Leeks – Onions repel carrot rust flies.
• Peas + Spinach – Peas provide shade for spinach in warming months.
• Beets + Lettuce – Lettuce fills gaps between slow-growing beets.
• Radishes + Carrots – Radishes loosen soil for slow-sprouting carrots.
• Lettuce + Cilantro – Cilantro helps deter aphids.
• Parsley + Carrots – Encourages beneficial insects like hoverflies.
• Peas + Mint – Mint deters aphids (but plant mint in containers!).
Avoid these pairings
• Carrots + Dill – Dill can stunt carrot growth.
• Peas + Onions – Onions inhibit pea growth.
• Beets + Pole Beans – Compete for nutrients.
• Fennel + Any Veggies – Fennel secretes chemicals that stop growth.
Happy Gardening!
By following the Deep Roots Project’s transformational gardening methods through the seasons, you will create a thriving, nutrient-rich garden that supports both your plants and the soil. See the full list of our Grow Your Own Food blog posts. Each post is assigned ”tags” which are under the post title.
Deep Roots Supports Gardeners
We provide our gardeners with the best products for success – like cedar raised beds, microbe-rich compost and microbe-rich worm castings. Check our online store. Always talk to our customer support team before placing your order online. If you need help or have a question contact us at support[at]deep-roots-project.org and 708-655-5299.
Deep Roots Online Store
See our online store for details about prices, ordering and delivery of raised beds, planter boxes, microbe-rich compost, worm castings, leaf mulch and more. We don’t sell traditional soil, since we use 100% compost as our growing medium. Our online store has 2 sections – (1) raised beds and planter boxes and (2) compost, worm castings, fertilizer.
Please contact our customer support team before placing an order online so we can assist you with the details and answer your gardening questions. You can pay by credit card in the store or by check.
Please leave your cell phone number when you sign up for our eNewsletter, if you want text message announcements now and then.
Donations help us provide organic kitchen gardening education to individuals, organizations, and entire communities. Thank you in advance for contributing to our community and for sharing our website and blog with friends and family.
Are Black Fabric Grow Bags Safe?
Black fabric grow bags have become a favorite among gardeners for their lightweight design, excellent drainage, and root-air pruning capabilities. Yet concerns have emerged about potential micro-plastic shedding and chemical leaching from recycled plastic materials. In this post, we’ll explore the safety of these bags…
Black fabric grow bags have become a favorite among gardeners for their lightweight design, excellent drainage, and root-air pruning capabilities. Yet concerns have emerged about potential microplastic shedding and chemical leaching from recycled plastic materials. In this post, we’ll explore the safety of these bags, examine what materials and certifications to look for, and offer recommendations for reputable brands and safe alternatives—including natural fiber options and hard plastic pots.
Microplastics, Materials, & Safer Alternatives
Many fabric grow bags are made of recycled plastics, such as polypropylene (PP) or polyethylene terephthalate (PET). Their fibrous, breathable construction can improve root growth but may also shed tiny plastic particles over time. This microplastic release is primarily a concern because the bags degrade under UV exposure and regular watering. Shedding is much more of a concern with fibrous versus solid plastics.
While research is still ongoing, early studies suggest that virgin plastics may be safer than recycled plastics. Solid plastics are also preferable to fibrous plastics simply due to the fact that a solid is less likely to break down with handling. Consider these strategies:
Invest in Quality: BPA-free virgin plastics that are solid may cost a few dollars more, but last longer in addition to being potentially safer for health and environment. Choosing these more durable plastics also reduces overall waste.
Gentle Handling: If you’re already using these bags and can’t replace them right away, minimizing abrasion during cleaning or moving can lessen fiber shedding.
Containment Solutions: It may be possible to reduce shedding from your grow bags to surrounding soil by placing your grow bags into a secondary container.
Material Safety and Chemical Leaching
Beyond the physical issue of microplastics, many gardeners wonder if any chemicals might leach from fabric grow bags into the soil. The safety of a plastic product largely depends on the type of plastic used:
Food-Grade Plastics: Materials like high-density polyethylene (HDPE), low-density polyethylene (LDPE), polypropylene (PP), and PET are considered safe for food contact. These plastics are commonly used in food containers because they do not leach harmful chemicals under normal use.
Avoiding Certain Plastics: Products made from PVC or polycarbonate (often categorized as “#7” or “other”) may release toxins such as BPA or phthalates. Reputable grow bag manufacturers avoid these materials in favor of food-safe options.
Recycled Material Cautions: While recycling in general is aimed at reducing overall waste to help the environment, recycled materials must be carefully processed to avoid contaminants such as heavy metals. Additionally, bonding agents used to get recycled materials to hold their shape could be unsafe additives. Look for manufacturers who verify that their recycled content meets stringent standards.
Many trusted brands state that their products are BPA-free, phthalate-free, and use either virgin or properly processed recycled plastic. This transparency is crucial for ensuring that the products remain inert in your garden. Research companies to find out whether they adhere to the standards they claim to in their marketing.
Certifications and Transparency
When shopping for grow bags, certain certifications can provide extra peace of mind:
Global Recycled Standard (GRS): This certification verifies that recycled content is processed under strict criteria, ensuring the material is free from harmful contaminants.
Food-Grade Labels: Look for any indication that the plastic is “food safe” or that the product is tested to be BPA-free. While these labels don’t cover every potential issue, they do indicate that the manufacturer is aware of chemical safety concerns.
If a product’s labeling or website provides detailed information on the materials used, it’s a sign that the company may prioritize safety and quality.
Exploring Natural Fiber Grow Bags
For gardeners who prefer to avoid plastics entirely, natural fiber grow bags present an attractive alternative. Options include bags made from jute, burlap, or hemp. These materials are entirely biodegradable and completely free of synthetic microplastics.
Advantages of Natural Fiber Bags
Zero Microplastic Risk: Made entirely from plant fibers, these bags will not shed plastic particles.
Eco-Friendly: Being biodegradable, natural fiber bags can be composted after their useful life.
Breathable: Like synthetic fabric bags, natural fibers allow for excellent air and moisture movement, promoting healthy root growth.
Considerations When Using Natural Fiber Bags
Shorter Lifespan: Natural fibers decompose over time. You may need to replace them after one or two growing seasons.
Structural Strength: Natural fibers might not hold up as well with larger volumes of soil or frequent handling. They are often best used for smaller crops or as liners.
Availability: While options are growing, natural fiber bags are still somewhat niche. Some hybrid products combine natural fibers with a small percentage of plastic to extend lifespan while still reducing overall synthetic content. Read product descriptions carefully to make sure you know what you’re buying.
If you are environmentally cautious and willing to invest in a short-term solution that can be composted, natural fiber grow bags offer a compelling alternative.
Safer Hard Plastic Containers
For those who prefer the stability of a rigid container over a fabric grow bag, hard plastic pots are another safer option—provided you choose the right material. Hard containers made from food-grade plastics such as HDPE and PP are widely used in food storage and are less prone to microplastic shedding because they lack the fibrous structure of fabric bags.
Recommendations for Hard Plastic Pots
EarthBox® Planter: The EarthBox system is a popular self-watering planter designed for growing vegetables. These containers are made from UV-stable, BPA-free plastic, ensuring safety over many seasons. EarthBox products have a longstanding reputation in both home and school gardens for their durability and safety.
Air-Pot® Containers: Air-Pot containers feature a unique design with holes that encourage air-pruning of roots, similar to fabric grow bags. Made from recycled HDPE, Air-Pots are designed for longevity. HDPE is a proven, food-safe plastic used in everyday items like milk jugs, and its use in Air-Pots reinforces the safety and durability of the product.
High-Quality Nursery Pots: Many traditional nursery pots are constructed from polypropylene. Trusted brands such as Bloem and Akro-Mils offer durable, food-grade plastic pots that can be used safely for edibles. These are often available in various sizes, including repurposed food-grade 5-gallon buckets (after ensuring they have not previously contained harmful substances).
Restaurant discards: It is often possible to collect food-safe plastic vessels from local restaurants. Many receive large quantities of food in BPA free containers that they simply discard after use. As these are designed to be food safe, they can provide a cheap or free alternative to purchasing garden vessels. In the Chicagoland area, Portillo’s restaurant sells pickle buckets for $2 as part of an ongoing heart health fundraiser. Options like this may exist in any community with restaurants. It can’t hurt to stop into an establishment and ask!
When choosing any hard plastic container, check for clear labels indicating food-grade material and BPA-free status. This ensures that your container remains inert and safe for growing edibles.
Final Thoughts
While black plastic grow bags are accessible and affordable, they come with potential health risks to the environment and to the health of the person eating food produced in them. These risks come both from the potential for microplastic shedding as well as chemical leaching. Avoiding use of plastics in the garden altogether is best practice, but not always affordable. Solid, virgin plastics that are labeled food safe are the safest plastics to use in the garden.
Happy gardening—and may your harvests be as bountiful as they are safe!
Happy Gardening!
By following the Deep Roots Project’s transformational gardening methods through the seasons, you will create a thriving, nutrient-rich garden that supports both your plants and the soil. See the full list of our Grow Your Own Food blog posts. Each post is assigned ”tags” which are under the post title.
Deep Roots Supports Gardeners
We provide our gardeners with the best products for success – like cedar raised beds, microbe-rich compost and microbe-rich worm castings. Check our online store. Always talk to our customer support team before placing your order online. If you need help or have a question contact us at support[at]deep-roots-project.org and 708-655-5299.
Deep Roots Online Store
See our online store for details about prices, ordering and delivery of raised beds, planter boxes, microbe-rich compost, worm castings, leaf mulch and more. We don’t sell traditional soil, since we use 100% compost as our growing medium. Our online store has 2 sections – (1) raised beds and planter boxes and (2) compost, worm castings, fertilizer.
Please contact our customer support team before placing an order online so we can assist you with the details and answer your gardening questions. You can pay by credit card in the store or by check.
Please leave your cell phone number when you sign up for our eNewsletter, if you want text message announcements now and then.
Donations help us provide organic kitchen gardening education to individuals, organizations, and entire communities. Thank you in advance for contributing to our community and for sharing our website and blog with friends and family.
Edible Landscaping: Grow Food, Not Grass!
For decades, we’ve been told that the “perfect” lawn is a status symbol. But the real power move? Transforming your yard into a productive, beautiful, and eco-friendly space that actually benefits you and the environment.
For decades, we’ve been told that the “perfect” lawn is a status symbol. But the real power move? Transforming your yard into a productive, beautiful, and eco-friendly space that actually benefits you and the environment. Join the Deep Roots Project and learn how to turn your yard into a thriving, edible landscape - grow food, not grass!
Switch from Growing Grass to Growing Food
It’s time to stop grass farming and start food growing. Your yard has the potential to be so much more than a money-sucking green carpet. Let’s rethink the American yard—one delicious, homegrown meal at a time!
Welcome to the great American contradiction. We love nature, but we spray it to death. Picture the classic American Dream! A beautiful home, a happy family, kids running barefoot through a lush green yard, and a dog joyfully chasing a ball. But hold on—what’s that smell? It’s not fresh-cut grass. It’s a cocktail of chemical fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides keeping that lawn unnaturally pristine.
Meanwhile, inside the house, the same family is sitting down for an organic, locally sourced meal—because, of course, they care about eating healthy. They read labels, avoid GMOs, and shun pesticide-laden produce. But outside? Their lawn is a synthetic chemical wasteland, soaking up poisons that seep into the groundwater, harm wildlife, and ironically, require more work and money than if they just let nature do its thing.
Your Lawn is a Tiny, Pointless Farm
What do you actually get from your lawn? It’s a never-ending chore that eats up your time, drains your wallet, and gives nothing in return. Lawns are the only crop in America that require constant care but provide zero harvest. It’s like being a farmer, but instead of growing food, you grow… expensive, chemically dependent green carpet.
Meanwhile, industrial agriculture is working overtime, using the same kind of chemicals to grow our food on a massive scale, causing long-term damage to our soil, water, and climate. And guess what? The companies making money off industrial farming are the same ones selling you weed killers and fertilizers for your lawn.
So if you think about it, the “perfect” American lawn isn’t just bad for the environment—it’s a marketing trick that keeps you spending money on something completely unnecessary.
The Cost of Keeping Up With the Joneses (And Their Lawn)
We’ve been trained to believe that a flawless green yard equals success. But at what cost?
• $30 billion—That’s how much Americans spend on lawn care every year.
• 150 hours—The average person spends more time mowing the lawn than doing almost anything else outdoors.
• 17 million gallons of gas—Spilled each year by people refueling their lawn mowers, polluting our water and air.
• 9 billion gallons of water—Used daily to keep lawns green, even in drought-prone areas.
And here’s the kicker: the chemicals we use on our lawns—pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers—end up in our drinking water, harm pollinators, and are linked to serious health problems in children and pets.
What If Your Yard Fed You Instead?
Now imagine a different kind of yard. One bursting with life—fresh herbs, juicy tomatoes, crunchy lettuce, and vibrant flowers buzzing with bees and butterflies. A space where kids can pick their own snacks right off the vine and neighbors stop by, not to judge your grass, but to admire your flourishing mini-farm.
Converting even part of your yard into an organic food garden means:
• Less time mowing
• Less money spent on fertilizers and chemicals
• A lower water bill
• A healthier planet
• Fresh, homegrown food
Sounds like a better deal than a grass farm, right?
How to Break Up With Your Lawn (Without Losing Curb Appeal) Ready to make the switch? Here are some easy ways to start:
• Grow Food, Not Grass – Turn part of your yard into a raised bed or plant fruit trees, berries, or herbs. If you’ve got sun, you’ve got potential!
• Go Native – Swap thirsty grass for native wildflowers and drought-resistant plants that require little maintenance and help pollinators thrive.
• Ditch the Chemicals – Stop using synthetic fertilizers and pesticides. Instead, build healthy soil with compost and mulch. Your yard (and local wildlife) will thank you.
• Shrink the Lawn, Grow a Path – Create meandering walkways with stone or mulch and let ground covers like clover replace boring grass.
• Make Friends with the Bees – Pollinator-friendly gardens are not just beautiful, they’re essential for food production. Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds will love your new yard!
A Lawn-Free Future Looks Pretty Green.
Dive Deeper
Click on the Blog Posts Below for more about our Innovative methods.
Beautify your yard with elegant cedar raised beds!
Our Deep Roots handcrafted cedar raised beds are designed to endure outdoors while adding a touch of style to your yard. As a bonus, they are the perfect depth to hold just the right amount of our nutrient-rich compost growing medium, which comes free with each bed.
Happy Gardening!
Deep Roots Supports Gardeners
We provide our gardeners with the best products for success – like cedar raised beds, microbe-rich compost and microbe-rich worm castings. Check our online store. Always talk to our customer support team before placing your order online. If you need help or have a question contact us at support[at]deep-roots-project.org and 708-655-5299.
Deep Roots Online Store
See our online store for details about prices, ordering and delivery of raised beds, planter boxes, microbe-rich compost, worm castings, leaf mulch and more. We don’t sell traditional soil, since we use 100% compost as our growing medium. Our online store has 2 sections – (1) raised beds and planter boxes and (2) compost, worm castings, fertilizer.
Please contact our customer support team before placing an order online so we can assist you with the details and answer your gardening questions. You can pay by credit card in the store or by check.
Please leave your cell phone number when you sign up for our eNewsletter, if you want text message announcements now and then.
Donations help us provide organic kitchen gardening education to individuals, organizations, and entire communities. Thank you in advance for contributing to our community and for sharing our website and blog with friends and family.
Pruning Blackberry, Raspberry and Blueberry Bushes
Pruning is an essential gardening practice that keeps your blueberry and raspberry bushes productive, healthy, and easy to manage.
Pruning is an essential gardening practice that keeps your blackberry, blueberry and raspberry bushes productive, healthy, and easy to manage. While pruning can seem intimidating, it’s straightforward once you understand the seasonal needs of each plant. Here’s what you need to know about pruning your berry bushes in both spring and fall.
Pruning Raspberry Bushes
Spring Pruning (Late Winter to Early Spring)
Raspberry pruning depends on whether you’re growing summer-bearing or ever-bearing (fall-bearing) varieties.
As a rule, for both varieties, always remember to cut the canes out at the ground level and remove the cut canes completely from the bed. The cut canes often harbor diseases, so you do not want to use them as mulch around the existing plants.
For summer-bearing raspberries:
Summer-bearing raspberries require two prunings.
Immediately after harvest, remove all the canes that fruited (floricanes).
Thin remaining canes to about 6 inches apart, keeping the strongest ones for fruit production.
In spring, cut back the side shoots on the floricanes slightly - remove less than one-fourth of the length of the cane. This procedure is called “heading back” and prevents the shoots from becoming too heavy.
Trim any overly long or weak canes to about 4-5 feet tall to encourage sturdy growth.
For ever-bearing raspberries:
The most efficient method for fall bearing raspberries is to cut them all down every fall after harvest. Treating them like an annual crop this way gives you only one large crop in late summer or early fall. But it is a good way to avoid disease and damage from rabbits by overwintering canes.
If you want a summer and fall harvest, remove only the top portion of canes that fruited in the fall, leaving the lower part to bear fruit in early summer. After these canes fruit the following summer, cut them out at ground level.
Be sure to monitor carefully and immediately remove any canes that show signs of disease.
Black and Purple Raspberries
When the primocanes are 2 feet high in the summer, pinch out the tip of each shoot. This will cause side shoots to grow, increasing your harvest and making the berries easier to reach.
After harvest, cut out all the canes that fruited.
In early Spring, cut back side branches to 12 inches, and remove all but four to five of the best canes.
Final Tips for Success
Always use sharp, clean pruning shears to prevent damage and disease spread.
Label your berry varieties if you grow both summer-bearing and ever-bearing raspberries to ensure proper pruning.
Prune on a dry day to reduce the risk of fungal infections entering fresh cuts.
Prepare for winter. If you live in a cold climate, consider tying up raspberry canes to prevent wind damage and adding mulch at the base for insulation.
Pruning Blackberry Bushes
Note - Blackberries are not generally recommended in northern Illinois. They are not normally hardy enough for our climate. However, if you are in a more moderate micro-climate close to Lake Michigan and have a spot protected from strong winds - then you may be able to grow Blackberries successfully.
Training & Pruning Blackberries
Blackberries produce on second year canes. You train them the same way you do black raspberries: prune the tips of the canes the first season when they reach four feet in order to stiffen the canes.
Prune out canes that have fruited immediately after harvest or any time before Spring growth begins.
In early Spring while the plants are still dormant, cut back each side shoot to 8 inches.
Remove dead, damaged, or diseased canes. This prevents disease and promotes healthy growth.
Tip-prune the canes. Cut back the top few inches of young, vigorous canes to about 3-4 feet to encourage lateral branching and increase fruit yield.
Space out canes. Keep about 6 inches between canes to ensure good airflow and reduce disease risk.
Fall Pruning (After Harvest)
Remove spent floricanes. If not done earlier, cut back any canes that fruited during the summer to ground level.
Thin the primocanes. Leave only the healthiest, strongest new canes for next year’s fruiting, spacing them about 6 inches apart.
Cut back lateral branches. Trim lateral growth to about 12-18 inches to encourage better fruit production the following season.
Prepare for winter. In colder climates, consider tying canes to a trellis and applying mulch around the base for insulation.
Final Tips for Success
Always use sharp, clean pruning shears to prevent damage and disease spread.
Label your berry varieties if you grow different types to ensure proper pruning.
Prune on a dry day to reduce the risk of fungal infections entering fresh cuts.
Pruning Blueberry Bushes
Special reminder: Blueberries require acid soil of pH around 4.5. Our regular Deep Roots compost and worm castings have a pH of around 7. Create special soil blend and use a low pH fertilizer.
Skip the first 3 years
It is not necessary to prune new blueberry bushes for the first three years after planting.
Spring Pruning (Late Winter to Early Spring)
After three years, begin pruning every year while the plants are still dormant.
Late Winter or early Spring is the best time to assess winter damage and shape your blueberry bushes for a strong growing season.
Remove dead, damaged, or diseased branches. These branches won’t contribute to healthy growth and can spread disease.
Remove weak shoots and twigs less than 6 inches long to let in more light, reduce the risk of fungal infections, and produce more fruit.
Renewal Pruning. Blueberries produce fruits on second year growth. Every couple of years remove the oldest and heaviest branches. New shoots will grow from the base of the plant and produce a better crop.
• Limit excessive height. Trim back overly tall stems to keep the plant manageable and promote fruiting within easy reach. Ideally, prune back long canes to about 4-5 feet in height.
Fall Pruning Not Needed for Blueberries
In general you do not prune Blueberries in the fall.
Fall pruning will stimulate new growth too late in the season, which may not survive winter.
You may want to remove any diseased or broken branches. This helps prevent issues from carrying over into winter. But avoid major cuts. Save heavy pruning for early spring when the plant is dormant.
Clean up debris. Rake and remove fallen leaves and pruned material to reduce the risk of pests and disease overwintering in your garden.
Happy Gardening!
With regular pruning, your blueberry, raspberry, and blackberry bushes will reward you with abundant, high-quality fruit for years to come. See the full list of our Grow Your Own Food blog posts. Each post is assigned ”tags” which are under the post title.
Deep Roots Supports Gardeners
We provide our gardeners with the best products for success – like cedar raised beds, microbe-rich compost and microbe-rich worm castings. Check our online store. Always talk to our customer support team before placing your order online. If you need help or have a question contact us at support[at]deep-roots-project.org and 708-655-5299.
Deep Roots Online Store
See our online store for details about prices, ordering and delivery of raised beds, planter boxes, microbe-rich compost, worm castings, leaf mulch and more. We don’t sell traditional soil, since we use 100% compost as our growing medium. Our online store has 2 sections – (1) raised beds and planter boxes and (2) compost, worm castings, fertilizer.
Please contact our customer support team before placing an order online so we can assist you with the details and answer your gardening questions. You can pay by credit card in the store or by check.
Please leave your cell phone number when you sign up for our eNewsletter, if you want text message announcements now and then.
Donations help us provide organic kitchen gardening education to individuals, organizations, and entire communities. Thank you in advance for contributing to our community and for sharing our website and blog with friends and family.
Winter Sowing Using Milk Jugs
If you love gardening and hate waiting until spring to start growing, winter seed sowing is for you! Here are easy and low-cost steps start hardy seedlings outdoors during winter using recycled milk jugs.
If you love gardening but hate waiting until spring to start growing, winter seed sowing is for you! This easy and low-cost method allows gardeners in Zones 5 and 6 to start hardy seedlings outdoors during winter using recycled milk jugs. When done correctly, this technique creates a mini-greenhouse effect that protects seeds and helps them sprout at the perfect time. Here’s how to do it!
Why Sow Seeds in Winter?
• Mimics Nature – Many seeds require a period of cold stratification to germinate. Winter sowing provides this naturally.
• Stronger Plants – Because the seedlings emerge outdoors in their natural environment, they are hardier and less prone to transplant shock.
• Saves Space Indoors – No need to clutter your house with seed trays and grow lights!
• Water Efficient – The enclosed jugs hold moisture, reducing the need for frequent watering.
What You’ll Need
• Clean, empty milk jugs (or similar clear plastic containers)
• Bleach to sterilize the jugs
• Utility knife or scissors
• Duct tape
• Permanent marker
• As potting soil use Deep Roots microbe-rich compost and worm castings mixed 1:1 ratio
• Seeds suitable for winter sowing
• Water
Step-by-Step Guide
1. Sterilize the jugs: Fill a large container or your bathtub with water and 10% bleach. Soak the jugs for about 20 minutes. Then soak in clean water for 20 minutes to remove the bleach.
2. Prepare the Jugs: Cut the milk jug almost in half, leaving a small hinge near the handle. Poke drainage holes in the bottom.
3. Fill with Soil: Add 3-4 inches of moist potting soil or seed-starting mix.
4. Plant the Seeds: Sow seeds according to the recommended depth on the seed packet.
5. Close & Label: Tape the jug shut and label it with the seed type and date.
6. Set Outside: Place the jugs in a sunny, sheltered location. Snow and rain will help keep them hydrated.
7. Monitor & Ventilate: As temperatures warm in early spring, check for condensation inside the jugs. If it gets too hot, open the top during the day.
8. Transplant When Ready: Once seedlings have several sets of true leaves and the risk of frost has passed, transplant them into your garden beds.
Best Seeds for Winter Sowing
Many cold-hardy flowers and vegetables thrive with this method, including:
• Flowers: Milkweed, poppies, echinacea, black-eyed Susan, columbine
• Vegetables: Kale, lettuce, spinach, broccoli, onions, parsley
• Herbs: Thyme, sage, chives, oregano
Tips for Success
• Use translucent containers—clear plastic may allow too much light and heat.
• Don’t overwater before sealing the jugs—moist but not soggy is ideal.
• Keep jugs in full sun to ensure proper warmth as temperatures fluctuate.
• Be patient! Some seeds take longer to sprout than others, especially native plants.
Why This Works So Well in Zones 5 & 6
These zones experience cold winters but still have enough late-winter sun to warm up the mini-greenhouses. Seeds naturally break dormancy when conditions are right, leading to healthier plants that are better adapted to outdoor conditions.
Winter sowing using milk jugs is a great way to get a head start on your garden while making the most of the cold months. Give it a try, and come spring, you’ll have strong, thriving seedlings ready to transplant!
Best Seeds for Winter Sowing in Milk Jugs
Winter sowing is ideal for cold-hardy plants and those that require cold stratification. While summer vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and squash can be winter-sown, they are not the best candidates because they prefer warm soil and sprout best indoors under controlled temperatures. However, you can still give them a try using this method if you plant them later in winter.
Best Seeds to Winter Sow by Category
Cold-Hardy Vegetables & Herbs
Great for Winter Sowing - these plants can be started 10-12 weeks before the last frost
• Kale (10-12 weeks before last frost)
• Spinach (10-12 weeks before last frost)
• Lettuce (8-10 weeks before last frost)
• Swiss Chard (8-10 weeks before last frost)
• Broccoli (8-10 weeks before last frost)
• Cauliflower (8-10 weeks before last frost)
• Brussels Sprouts (10-12 weeks before last frost)
• Cabbage (8-10 weeks before last frost)
• Collard Greens (10-12 weeks before last frost)
• Onions & Leeks (10-12 weeks before last frost)
• Carrots (8-10 weeks before last frost)
• Beets (8-10 weeks before last frost)
• Radishes (8-10 weeks before last frost)
• Turnips (8-10 weeks before last frost)
• Parsley (10-12 weeks before last frost)
• Chives (10-12 weeks before last frost)
Perennial & Hardy Annual Flowers
Excellent for Winter Sowing - many flowers need cold stratification, making them perfect for winter sowing.
• Milkweed (12+ weeks before last frost)
• Echinacea (Coneflower) (10-12 weeks before last frost)
• Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia) (10-12 weeks before last frost)
• Poppies (10-12 weeks before last frost)
• Lupine (10-12 weeks before last frost)
• Columbine (10-12 weeks before last frost)
• Snapdragons (8-10 weeks before last frost)
• Delphinium (10-12 weeks before last frost)
• Foxglove (10-12 weeks before last frost)
• Hollyhocks (10-12 weeks before last frost)
• Bachelor’s Button (8-10 weeks before last frost)
Summer Vegetables
Summer vegetables are NOT the best candidates for winter sowing because they need warm soil to germinate. If planted too early, they may rot instead of sprouting. You can winter sow them later in the season - but you must wait until late winter/early spring (6-8 weeks before last frost) to avoid premature sprouting in cold weather.
• Tomatoes (6-8 weeks before last frost)
• Peppers (6-8 weeks before last frost)
• Eggplants (6-8 weeks before last frost)
• Basil (6-8 weeks before last frost)
• Cilantro (6-8 weeks before last frost)
• Cucumbers (4-6 weeks before last frost)
• Squash (Zucchini, Pumpkin, Winter Squash) (4-6 weeks before last frost)
• Melons (4-6 weeks before last frost)
Other Resources
Happy Gardening!
By following the Deep Roots Project’s transformational gardening methods through the seasons, you will create a thriving, nutrient-rich garden that supports both your plants and the soil. See the full list of our Grow Your Own Food blog posts. Each post is assigned ”tags” which are under the post title.
Deep Roots Supports Gardeners
We provide our gardeners with the best products for success – like cedar raised beds, microbe-rich compost and microbe-rich worm castings. Check our online store. Always talk to our customer support team before placing your order online. If you need help or have a question contact us at support[at]deep-roots-project.org and 708-655-5299.
Deep Roots Online Store
See our online store for details about prices, ordering and delivery of raised beds, planter boxes, microbe-rich compost, worm castings, leaf mulch and more. We don’t sell traditional soil, since we use 100% compost as our growing medium. Our online store has 2 sections – (1) raised beds and planter boxes and (2) compost, worm castings, fertilizer.
Please contact our customer support team before placing an order online so we can assist you with the details and answer your gardening questions. You can pay by credit card in the store or by check.
Please leave your cell phone number when you sign up for our eNewsletter, if you want text message announcements now and then.
Donations help us provide organic kitchen gardening education to individuals, organizations, and entire communities. Thank you in advance for contributing to our community and for sharing our website and blog with friends and family.